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This is a rough guide to what is required to drop the rear then to pull and swap it. I just got bored at night and typed this up from memory so just use it as a basic guide and feel free to add to it. Or ask where you want me to explain more.
This is also Good for pulling the rear springs. And pulling the driveshaft.
Pulling driveshaft(Step 9)
Step 1
Jack the car up high by the diff, and support the car with jackstands. I generally put them in front of the lcas on the frame. Block the front wheels for safety since you have no parking brake/park/in gear or anything to keep the car from rolling.
Step 2
With jack under the diff, lower the rear a little but not all the way, to where its "hanging" on the suspension.
Step 3
Remove the lower shock mounts, I believe its a 21mm sock, then pop the shocks out of the rear.(I rotate them inward to avoid the bolt from snagging the rear going up and down.)
Step 3
Disconnect the sway bar endlinks, Both ends are 13 mm, I use a 13mm deepsocket on top and a 13mm flat wrench underneath. But you can do whatever way you like, air tools would be handy here.
Step 4
Slowly release the Jack so the rear end drops.BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVEREXTEND THE RUBBER BRAKE LINE FROM THE FRAME TO THE REAR!!!!1111 The rear springs will fall out slowly. If you plan to work on it, I suggest putting jackstands under it to support it.
YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY LOWERED THE REAR!
Step 5(Removing/Swapping the rear)
Unhook the panhard rod from the rear, you will need a flat wrench and a socket wrench I forgot the sizes but 17mm and 19mm stick out in my head. If its wedged in after the bolt is removed don't be afraid to pry it out.
Step 6
Unhook the LCAS, (similar to the panhard rod) and which will also affect the e-brake cables and the brake lines. Leave those kind of dangling
Unhook the e-brake cables, they should just slide off if fanangle it a bit. Also since we are dealing with the e-brake cables, might as well undo the 2 guides for the e-brake cables near the pumpkin that share bolts with the diff cover, they are both 1/2 in.
Step 7 Brake Lines...
There are 2 ways to do it.
FIRST WAY
Unhook do the brake fitting at the top on the driverside of the car above the rear end, its before where the brakes T-off (on a 3 channel Rear) This leaves the hard brake lines on the rear itself.
SECOND WAY
Undo the brake fittings at the brakes. They shoudl connect around where we had the brackets that were attached to the LCAs the hardlines are attached to the rear with little metal tabs, bend them up so you can slip the hardlines off the rear. There is also a bolt holding the T-fitting down on the Rear, its on the driver side of the diff. I believe its a 10 mm bolt
Then unhook the brake caliper from the backing plate. I think its a 5/8s socket, pull the caliper off and set it aside witht becareful to not put alot of tension on the rubber hose between the caliper and bracket.
Step 8 Unhooking the torque arm
There are 2 through bolts. They are large I believe 18 mm. Put a flat wrench on one and a socket on the other, which ever way you have more room to get anchoridge on them. Undo the nuts the slide the bolts out, a hammer and a screwdriver can help if they are a little binded in there then spack the torque arm off the diff. IF YOU HAVE A 2 PIECE DRIVESHAFT YOU WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE CENTER BEARING FROMT HE TORQUE ARM IT IS JUST 2 BOLTS
Step 9 Removing the Driveshaft
Before you do this, just to warn you sometimes when you pull the driveshaft out it tranny fluid will leak out the back of the tranny, I got a plug for it on a tranny that got sent to me, but not sure where to get one. You "shouldn't" have a problem with it since the rear is jacked up high and the rear of the tranny is the "high point" but just warning you about it.(I had the car jacked up level on 4 corners and pulled the driveshaft and gots lots of fluid out.)
Remove the 4 bolts from the u-joint (you can do this with the torque arm on if you are just replacing the driveshaft but you will need to do 2 bolts, then put car in neutral, spin it, then put it in gear and get other 2)
Then slide the driveshaft forward into the tranny, older cars might need to pry a little with a screwdriver, then pull drop the rear of the driveshaft and pull it out of the tail of the tranny.
Step 10
The rear shoudl be out of the car, pull it out!
Installation is pretty much the same, don't be afraid if bolts don't line up on the lcas perfect to give them some taps with a hammer.
You will also need to bleed the rear brakes once you unhook the lines you let air in the system. I suggest using a Mighty Vac
SWAPPING BRAKES OVERS TO NEW REAR
Step 1
Undo the bolts to remove the brake caliper from the backing plate(should have been done earlier)1
Step 2
Pull the cover off the differential, 10, 1/2in bolts(might have already pulled 2 earlier for e-brake cable guides, they are the 2 longer ones of the 10 bolts) If you don't already know, the worst smelling fluid ever will come out once you open it.
Step 3
Use an 8mm wrench to get the bolt out that holds the pinion shaft/block out(depends what kind of differential you have, Auburn and open differential have a round shaft. Zexel torsion has a block. Becareful with this bolt, its small and fragile, if you break it or round it off, it could be a small nightmare. (ask matt 98camaro3.8) After the bolt is out, slide the pinion shaft out.
Step 4
Rotate the diff till you can get in the biggest opening. Then push the axle shaft in wards and the C-clip usually falls out or you can reach in and slide it off the axle.
Do the same for both sides
Then the axle shafts shoudl slide right on out, then set them aside.
Step 5
Now there are 4 1/2 in. I belive bolts holding the backing plate on. They are through bolts so you might need a wrench on both sides.
Now do the same to the other rear and move the backing plates over, put the axleshafts in, pinion seal back on and bolt everything on in reverse and you are done!
This is also Good for pulling the rear springs. And pulling the driveshaft.
Pulling driveshaft(Step 9)
Step 1
Jack the car up high by the diff, and support the car with jackstands. I generally put them in front of the lcas on the frame. Block the front wheels for safety since you have no parking brake/park/in gear or anything to keep the car from rolling.
Step 2
With jack under the diff, lower the rear a little but not all the way, to where its "hanging" on the suspension.
Step 3
Remove the lower shock mounts, I believe its a 21mm sock, then pop the shocks out of the rear.(I rotate them inward to avoid the bolt from snagging the rear going up and down.)
Step 3
Disconnect the sway bar endlinks, Both ends are 13 mm, I use a 13mm deepsocket on top and a 13mm flat wrench underneath. But you can do whatever way you like, air tools would be handy here.
Step 4
Slowly release the Jack so the rear end drops.BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVEREXTEND THE RUBBER BRAKE LINE FROM THE FRAME TO THE REAR!!!!1111 The rear springs will fall out slowly. If you plan to work on it, I suggest putting jackstands under it to support it.
YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY LOWERED THE REAR!
Step 5(Removing/Swapping the rear)
Unhook the panhard rod from the rear, you will need a flat wrench and a socket wrench I forgot the sizes but 17mm and 19mm stick out in my head. If its wedged in after the bolt is removed don't be afraid to pry it out.
Step 6
Unhook the LCAS, (similar to the panhard rod) and which will also affect the e-brake cables and the brake lines. Leave those kind of dangling
Unhook the e-brake cables, they should just slide off if fanangle it a bit. Also since we are dealing with the e-brake cables, might as well undo the 2 guides for the e-brake cables near the pumpkin that share bolts with the diff cover, they are both 1/2 in.
Step 7 Brake Lines...
There are 2 ways to do it.
FIRST WAY
Unhook do the brake fitting at the top on the driverside of the car above the rear end, its before where the brakes T-off (on a 3 channel Rear) This leaves the hard brake lines on the rear itself.
SECOND WAY
Undo the brake fittings at the brakes. They shoudl connect around where we had the brackets that were attached to the LCAs the hardlines are attached to the rear with little metal tabs, bend them up so you can slip the hardlines off the rear. There is also a bolt holding the T-fitting down on the Rear, its on the driver side of the diff. I believe its a 10 mm bolt
Then unhook the brake caliper from the backing plate. I think its a 5/8s socket, pull the caliper off and set it aside witht becareful to not put alot of tension on the rubber hose between the caliper and bracket.
Step 8 Unhooking the torque arm
There are 2 through bolts. They are large I believe 18 mm. Put a flat wrench on one and a socket on the other, which ever way you have more room to get anchoridge on them. Undo the nuts the slide the bolts out, a hammer and a screwdriver can help if they are a little binded in there then spack the torque arm off the diff. IF YOU HAVE A 2 PIECE DRIVESHAFT YOU WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE CENTER BEARING FROMT HE TORQUE ARM IT IS JUST 2 BOLTS
Step 9 Removing the Driveshaft
Before you do this, just to warn you sometimes when you pull the driveshaft out it tranny fluid will leak out the back of the tranny, I got a plug for it on a tranny that got sent to me, but not sure where to get one. You "shouldn't" have a problem with it since the rear is jacked up high and the rear of the tranny is the "high point" but just warning you about it.(I had the car jacked up level on 4 corners and pulled the driveshaft and gots lots of fluid out.)
Remove the 4 bolts from the u-joint (you can do this with the torque arm on if you are just replacing the driveshaft but you will need to do 2 bolts, then put car in neutral, spin it, then put it in gear and get other 2)
Then slide the driveshaft forward into the tranny, older cars might need to pry a little with a screwdriver, then pull drop the rear of the driveshaft and pull it out of the tail of the tranny.
Step 10
The rear shoudl be out of the car, pull it out!
Installation is pretty much the same, don't be afraid if bolts don't line up on the lcas perfect to give them some taps with a hammer.
You will also need to bleed the rear brakes once you unhook the lines you let air in the system. I suggest using a Mighty Vac
SWAPPING BRAKES OVERS TO NEW REAR
Step 1
Undo the bolts to remove the brake caliper from the backing plate(should have been done earlier)1
Step 2
Pull the cover off the differential, 10, 1/2in bolts(might have already pulled 2 earlier for e-brake cable guides, they are the 2 longer ones of the 10 bolts) If you don't already know, the worst smelling fluid ever will come out once you open it.
Step 3
Use an 8mm wrench to get the bolt out that holds the pinion shaft/block out(depends what kind of differential you have, Auburn and open differential have a round shaft. Zexel torsion has a block. Becareful with this bolt, its small and fragile, if you break it or round it off, it could be a small nightmare. (ask matt 98camaro3.8) After the bolt is out, slide the pinion shaft out.
Step 4
Rotate the diff till you can get in the biggest opening. Then push the axle shaft in wards and the C-clip usually falls out or you can reach in and slide it off the axle.
Do the same for both sides
Then the axle shafts shoudl slide right on out, then set them aside.
Step 5
Now there are 4 1/2 in. I belive bolts holding the backing plate on. They are through bolts so you might need a wrench on both sides.
Now do the same to the other rear and move the backing plates over, put the axleshafts in, pinion seal back on and bolt everything on in reverse and you are done!
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