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  • Hey magnus, lets talk about your converter......

    I thought about e mailing you with all the questions but then it would probably benifit everyone to see all my questions answered (hopefully).
    Some questions may seem basic and some (to me) will be a bit more complicated (but not for you).
    OK from your site you have : Precision industries 3200 pump #8.
    1) Is that a modifed 2800 stall to 3200 or is it just a 3200 stall.
    2) It is a 9 inch converter right? Stock is 12 inch. I read somewhere that smaller converters have less rotating mass and weigh less, am I correct in thinking this?
    3) How much is it? I've read here and there 700 bucks, how much was yours?
    4) How did you decide on that specific converter for your car? I've read converters depend on weight, gearing but what else?
    5) Honestly how is it around town? I'm asking this even though I ordered a manual rack, jeez
    6) Not that I care but fuel economy, it went down right?
    7) Where did you get yours?
    8) I have a 10,000 gvwt tranny cooler and tranny temp guage, would that be enough for the added heat generated?
    9) How is it n/a? Is the car kinda sluggish around town but as soon as you hit that stall speed it takes off like a rocket?
    10) Nitrous....., how is it on the bottle? As it is I damn near crap myself with the way it launches, with a converter it will be wild.
    11) Will shifting change with a converter on the bottle and n/a?
    12) Top speed affected n/a and bottle fed?
    13) Any other info would be greatly appreciated.
    These questions are mainly directed for the specific converter you chose.
    14) Any idea what et redcutions (with traction of course) I could see n/a vs bottle fed?

    Thanks for all the questions.
    I really do appreciate it.
    This is a hypathetical questionaire. I am not saying I am buying one for any upcoming event in maryland.
    Again, thanks man!!
    Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
    nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
    2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
    2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

  • #2
    james im not being an a** but alot of your questions should be answered at www.converter.cc but i can tell you from my experience some of the answers to your questions.
    4. you want to choose a converter with a stall speed 500-700 rpms below your the engines torque peak.
    5. mine is 2800 stall and i have 3.73 gears when my car is in drive its an animal even around town the pickup is awesome.
    6. honestly that depends on the driver, if your in the throttle ,yes the mileage goes down but if you just hammer down when needed like racing its fine.
    7. www.converter.cc
    8. i have a 24,000 tranny cooler i got for 49.00 at advanced auto works great. if it were me i would use bigger than 10,000 imo the less heat the better.
    9. stay in drive under 50 mph and the car is an animal [img]smile.gif[/img] past 50mph overdrive and she still picks up like no other
    10. sorry havent used nitrous yet
    11. from what i hear your rpm raise about 500 when on the bottle with converter could be wrong
    12. 3.73 gears and converter get me there so much faster but actual over 110 speed is a tad sluggish like when i hammer it down at 110 it picks up a little slow but still better than what it was stock.
    14. i saw an enormous et reduction .5 with my 2800
    sorry i just read you directed most of this towards magnus i didnt see that part i was only trying to help, hope i didnt piss you off
    [img]smile.gif[/img]

    Comment


    • #3
      No, I do appreciate all the answers.
      Thanks for the link too, I learned a lot.
      Hey magnus, where are you??? :D
      Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
      nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
      2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
      2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

      Comment


      • #4
        james he must be very busy because i cant get ahold of him today either

        Comment


        • #5
          TTT
          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

          Comment


          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6:

            2) It is a 9 inch converter right? Stock is 12 inch. I read somewhere that smaller converters have less rotating mass and weigh less, am I correct in thinking this?

            Stock is 9.5, PI is also 9.5.

            3) How much is it? I've read here and there 700 bucks, how much was yours?

            It's not a vigilantee so it's way cheaper.

            4) How did you decide on that specific converter for your car? I've read converters depend on weight, gearing but what else?

            He picked it out of thin air. It worked so he kept it.

            5) Honestly how is it around town? I'm asking this even though I ordered a manual rack, jeez

            You can't tell.

            6) Not that I care but fuel economy, it went down right?

            That should be a no brainer.

            7) Where did you get yours?

            Got is used from a private party. You'll have to get one from a vendor. Haven't seen many for sale.

            8) I have a 10,000 gvwt tranny cooler and tranny temp guage, would that be enough for the added heat generated?

            That's kinda weak, but better then nothing. Most people have 19 and 24. They are like what $50.

            9) How is it n/a? Is the car kinda sluggish around town but as soon as you hit that stall speed it takes off like a rocket?

            It's not sluggish.

            10) Nitrous....., how is it on the bottle? As it is I damn near crap myself with the way it launches, with a converter it will be wild.

            Too much for nitrous.

            11) Will shifting change with a converter on the bottle and n/a?

            Converter doesn't change shift points.

            12) Top speed affected n/a and bottle fed?

            Converter doesn't change top speed.

            13) Any other info would be greatly appreciated.
            These questions are mainly directed for the specific converter you chose.
            14) Any idea what et redcutions (with traction of course) I could see n/a vs bottle fed?

            NA should be .5 sec for a good converter. Some people get as much as .8 sec.

            Thanks for all the questions.
            I really do appreciate it.
            This is a hypathetical questionaire. I am not saying I am buying one for any upcoming event in maryland.
            Again, thanks man!!
            <hr></blockquote>

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok, sorry about the delay.. Mondays are the worst for me. I am not online over the weekend so on Monday I have many days to catch up on and many e-mails to respond to.. The board takes priority over tech related e-mails.

              1) Is that a modifed 2800 stall to 3200 or is it just a 3200 stall.
              It was a 2600 stall but it was too little so I sent it back to PI and they adjusted it to 3200.. so its a 3200 now.

              2) It is a 9 inch converter right? Stock is 12 inch. I read somewhere that smaller converters have less rotating mass and weigh less, am I correct in thinking this?
              Its a 9.5" and I'm pretty sure stock is 9.5" as well. I'll bust mine out and measure it in a few days.

              3) How much is it? I've read here and there 700 bucks, how much was yours?
              I bought mine used, brand new it goes for $500 or so.

              4) How did you decide on that specific converter for your car? I've read converters depend on weight, gearing but what else?
              Thin air basically. Yes they do rely on all those things, which is why you have to work with your converter manufacturer closely. I thought mine would stall at 2800 when I got it, it did not.. It was lower.. sent it to PI and told them to loosen it 600 rpm's.. they said it would be loosened 400-600 RPM's.. came back about 600 RPM's are so looser.

              5) Honestly how is it around town? I'm asking this even though I ordered a manual rack, jeez
              You DO notice it. Car sounds higher pitched at lower RPM's due to the less load. I slowly ease out of my division because it takes more RPM's to get going. It takes getitng used to. Some people like it, others don't.. It feels like the trans is just slipping. I like it.

              6) Not that I care but fuel economy, it went down right?
              Yes. I get around 17mpg or so no matter where I drive.

              7) Where did you get yours?
              Bought used from Shirl.

              8) I have a 10,000 gvwt tranny cooler and tranny temp guage, would that be enough for the added heat generated?
              If you have a low stall it should be good. A bigger one wouldn't hurt.. Mine is 19,000 or so I believe. Any bigger is considered to be a truck tranny cooler.

              9) How is it n/a? Is the car kinda sluggish around town but as soon as you hit that stall speed it takes off like a rocket?
              I flash the converter basically any time I want to go. It is kinda sluggish if you don't give it gas. If I flash the converter with any more than 1/2 throttle around town, I spin.

              10) Nitrous....., how is it on the bottle? As it is I damn near crap myself with the way it launches, with a converter it will be wild.
              Too much. Mine is at least. MPH is way low. Shifts are way too high. My converter on the bottle transforms to maybe a 4500 rpm stall or so.

              11) Will shifting change with a converter on the bottle and n/a?
              NA, from a dead stop they should be ok. NA from a roll like.. dropping it down into first from 35mph you'll hit the rev limiter if you don't let off.. You get used to it, I know exactly what RPM's my car is at by the sound so I know when its getting to close and I have to let off the gas.
              Nitrous, the rpm's will be higher so when you reach your shift point now, if your at 5900 RPM's, on nitrous you might be at 6100.. which means you would have hit the rev limiter already.

              12) Top speed affected n/a and bottle fed?
              Fourth gear the converter locks no matter what.. so top speed will remain the same.

              13) Any other info would be greatly appreciated.
              Bigger the stall, the less MPH. The bigger the stall, the less efficient your trans will be. The bigger the stall, the more you have to worry about upper RPM slippage and hitting the rev limiter.

              These questions are mainly directed for the specific converter you chose.

              14) Any idea what et redcutions (with traction of course) I could see n/a vs bottle fed?

              ok... on that subject it all depends on the size you go. Your a nitrous junkie so I recomend you do not go with something as big as mine. It takes so much work just to make my car nitrous acceptable.. Otherwise I'll hit the rev limiter between shifts, hit my top speed limiter, or just blow up, its whack.

              If you went with say a 2500 NA.. you would hit the nitrous maybe 3000 rpm's which would be real quick. Hitting the nitrous would make the converter slip more but it would still be tight enough to avoid those previous mentioned problems *I HOPE*.. I would guestimate.
              .2 gain NA and maybe same MPH.
              .4 gain N20 and maybe 2mph loss.

              Those are my guestimations, I have no info to back them up whatsoever, they are just what I would imagine would happen.

              Hope this helps.

              Don't forget that the nitrous will change the stall so you have to work with your converter vendor and make sure you guys are clear on what RPM you plan to spray at and what the stall will be rated for, NA or N20.

              - Keith
              Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

              Comment


              • #8
                What would you recommend for a nitroused auto? I plan on a TNT 100 wet shot, with a 3.23 LSD rear end. Also will have a cam similar to SSM.

                Do you have any preference of TCI, B&M, PI?

                My guess would be to go with a 2600 or 2800 converter, maybe even 2500 cause of the nitrous. Please help, and i'm reading into those links also, thank you.

                Scott

                [ January 14, 2002: Message edited by: Scott Black ]</p>

                Comment

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