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  • please help w/ 3.4 m5

    couple of questions, for one i forgot to clean my flywheel with a brake parts cleaner DO I FACE ANY CONSEQUENCES? i did not put the plate that is between the flywheel and the engine itself "I think it's useless" any trouble with that? and finally whats REALLY got me crapping my pants when i was getting ahold of my acuator it's internals came apart, i put it back together but im just curious to know if it will stay together anyone have this similar situation? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    ---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>

  • #2
    well first off if theres oil on the flywheel i assume it might slip for a while but i think it would burn off eventually and that little plate i think its just a guard??
    1995 Camaro 3.4 M5 - Project<br />1998 Camaro 3.8 A4 - Daily<br />Aim:V6OnSpeed<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/576233/1\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/576233/1</a>

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    • #3
      was there alot of oil on your flywheel?

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      • #4
        not too much oil on the flywheel at all really, but what im really worried about is the actuator anyone else had this similar situation happend to them before? it's really gonna suck finding another actuator i ain't sure if this one could take it
        ---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>

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        • #5
          when i changed my clutch, i had low pedal syndrome afterwards. I had to pump the pedal to disengage the clutch. Theres no bleed valve on our clutch assemblies. I tried to bleed it by the way the haynes manual says and the way someone in hear said (which was about the same) and it didn't work. I bought a new master cylinder (it comes as a kit with the actuator and slave cylinder, and it's all pre-bled, but i'm still having this trouble. If you know how to fix this problem then please help me cuz i get tired of pumping the pedal everytime i get in the car.
          16.8 1/4m at 2700ft elev.(b4 driveshaft and headers)<p>1995 M5 Firebird 3.4L sittin on Pirelli P4000\'s<br />mods: cheesy ebay intake<br /> 2.5\" cat back Gibson exhaust w/ 3\" chrome tips (Now a SPINTECH exhaust)<br /> MSD DIS-4<br /> Taylor Spark Plug Wires<br /> ASP Crank Pulley<br /> Alum. Drive Shaft<br /> Pacesetter Headers<br /> Nitrous Works Wet Kit(75shot)<br />Next Steps: <br /> Stuff for bigger nitrous shot!!!!!!!

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          • #6
            Oil on the flywheel is bad. You won't burn it off, the disc will actually soak it up and you will be slipping for so time to come. The shield is also important as it keeps any debris from entering the bellhousing and disrupting the operation of the clutch, especially if you engine leaks or power steering leaks. As far as the actuator goes, its a pressurized system so if the internals came apart, I would replace it.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jerriko:
              Oil on the flywheel is bad. You won't burn it off, the disc will actually soak it up and you will be slipping for so time to come. The shield is also important as it keeps any debris from entering the bellhousing and disrupting the operation of the clutch, especially if you engine leaks or power steering leaks. As far as the actuator goes, its a pressurized system so if the internals came apart, I would replace it.
              Pretty much what he said...

              But the oil one could be a big problem

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 3.4socalbird:
                when i changed my clutch, i had low pedal syndrome afterwards. I had to pump the pedal to disengage the clutch. Theres no bleed valve on our clutch assemblies. I tried to bleed it by the way the haynes manual says and the way someone in hear said (which was about the same) and it didn't work. I bought a new master cylinder (it comes as a kit with the actuator and slave cylinder, and it's all pre-bled, but i'm still having this trouble. If you know how to fix this problem then please help me cuz i get tired of pumping the pedal everytime i get in the car.
                when i had first taken my car to a shop to change the clutch i got it back with a weak @ss pedal i tried to bleed it many times but no dice im guessing the actuator went bad cuz i still have this prob up to this day.

                btw where did you get the kit from for the master cylinder only place i could find one was at a dealership but i back out seeing as they wanted my first born.
                ---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
                  </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Jerriko:
                  Oil on the flywheel is bad. You won't burn it off, the disc will actually soak it up and you will be slipping for so time to come. The shield is also important as it keeps any debris from entering the bellhousing and disrupting the operation of the clutch, especially if you engine leaks or power steering leaks. As far as the actuator goes, its a pressurized system so if the internals came apart, I would replace it.
                  Pretty much what he said...

                  But the oil one could be a big problem
                  </font>[/QUOTE]T5 is back off gonna spray the fecker down w/ brake parts cleaner this time, the shield goes between the flywheel and the block itself, don't think it's going to be put back on
                  ---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>

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                  • #10
                    Yes, the shield that goes between the block and flywheel is necessary. If you don't use it, you are trying your luck. Better just put the shield on now under your terms before some road debris gets in there and forces you to do it plus fix other parts.

                    [ May 13, 2004, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: Jerriko ]

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                    • #11
                      ok ok, luckily i kept it so it can be put back in now [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                      ---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>

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