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  • Do we have some T5 / clutch experts?

    Hi all, just wanted to say very nice board. Very impressive ! Some darn nice cars to I might add.

    I was wondering if I could get some help learning more about manual tranny's / clutches to troubleshoot some problems. Any information you could pass on would be greatly appreciated:

    Oh quick background:
    - it is a BW T5 from an 85 FB behind the 2.8.
    - brand new 3 piece clutch kit(in August), new pilot bushing and flywheel turned.
    - beautiful for 3 to 4 weeks after the new clutch but now chatter has come back, sometimes quite violent and the exhaust bangs against the floor :eek: chatter also always in reverse and usually when downshifting to (no exhaust banding though)

    1. Is clutch chatter always caused by glazing of the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate or could a worn pilot bushing or input shaft bearing cause it? What about the bearing retainer. What would the effect be if that was worn?

    2. Is bearing noise from the tranny normal to some degree (i think it is bearing noise)? I hear a gentle grrrrrr whenever you let the clutch out. Or is this a sign of bearing wear and needing a rebuild (new bearings)?

    3. Is there supposed to be some play in the tranny gears that could lead to bucking or is that something wearing in there too (bearings)? Depending on the circumstances, I get bucking and I can hear it making a bit of a racket in the tranny as it takes up that play in the gears forward then back repeatedly. You get this even in gear when you hit the gas kind of hard especially in 3rd (it doesn't feel good)

    Any knowledge you could pass on would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Chatter could be caused by worn synchronizers, broken shaft sleeve, broken trans mount, or a worn countershaft. I had a 76 T/A with a muncie 4 spd and it would chatter like crazy.
    1- The shaft sleeve was broken and I could see it when I pulled the trans from the engine. It fell on the ground.
    2- The countershaft had two broken teeth. I opened the side of the trans and turned the gears by hand and noticed the two missing teeth.
    3- Broken trans mounts can reak havok on your trans and u-joints. Make sure you check that first because it's the easiest to replace.

    A glazed flywheel CAN give trans chatter, but it's normally very minor. It will usually make the clutch slip. If you do have a worn countershaft and you are going to fix it, you should buy all new bearings for the internals of your trans -since you'll have it all torn apart anyway.
    My suggestion;
    Find the problem, then go from there. If your trans mount is broke, replace it and move on. If you have a broken tooth inside of the trans, worn bearings, etc. (anything that requires a teardown of the trans), get another used trans. It's ALOT of work and money to get it rebuilt.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Sounds like a trans mount -- many folks have had the rubber rip / tear through all the way -- watch out!
      <b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP

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      • #4
        thanks for the infor guys. Actually the trans mount is brand new (couple months). I know I have heard of some people breaking them easily but this car (2.8) has not been driven hard at all since the clutch change. I should still peek at it just to see though.

        Here is some other info:
        - flywheel machined
        - original bearing retainer but TOB seemed to fit on it nicely
        - a little play in the input shaft with the tranny out but not sure what amount is normal?

        Is it possible that the flywheel wasn't machined enough?? Why would it have been beautiful for a few weeks and then suddenly **** again? Any ideas?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jammy:
          a little play in the input shaft with the tranny out but not sure what amount is normal?
          I'd look into that. I never had any play on the shaft when I installed a trans. The sleeve may be worn, internal synchro's or bearings are worn. The sleeve is basically an easy (4 bolt) fix. The bearings or synchro's are a totally different story.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Now by sleeve are you referring to the bearing retainer that the TOB slide on ant the input shaft passes through? So you are saying that with the tranny out and when you grab the end of the shaft past the clutch splines and wiggle the shaft there should be next to no movement?

            Also one other thing I noticed, if you rev closer to 2000rpm and engage in 1st, no chatter. I am new to stick but am I correct in assuming it shouldn't be necessary to rev that high? Weird though how it is smooth then.

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            • #7
              What kind of clutch should you install? And yes, there should be some play involving the input shaft. The pilot bearing used to help hold the input shaft in place so when the trans is removed from the vehicle, you should be able to wiggle it around. There should be no preload on the input bearing otherwise you will burn it up.

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              • #8
                jerriko - how much "wiggle" are you referring to?

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