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  • whirling noise

    I have a whirling noise under acceleration.... wheel bearings?

  • #2
    No, sounds like the frontal hub crank bearing liquid to me
    You're gonna have to be way more accurate on the sound/description to get an opinion from anyone here.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Alternator?
      <br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/nitroxxx28\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/nitroxxx28</a>

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      • #4
        It's definately coming from the rear of the car~sounds almost like wind rushing in the car~but it's not b/c it doesn't do it when I coast only when I get on the gas...

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        • #5
          how recently did you put that new gm rear end in your car? Did the whirling noise progress after the installation?
          -Chris<br />2001 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Current Mods: NOS Dry Kit and a few others<br />N/A: 15.5@88.9MPH<br />N2O: ??? <br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/jtusa69888\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/jtusa69888</a>

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          • #6
            Gear whine
            2004 CE Corvette 10.86@132mph
            1996 Supercharged/Nitrous Camaro RS (For Sale)
            2011 Cadillac CTS-V
            2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT-P
            2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Shirl:
              Gear whine
              Yep, and expensive to fix! Jtown, you're probably better off trying to find another rear rather than having the internals on your current rear fixed.
              sigpic

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              • #8
                Did you have the rear built by a performance shop? If so, the gears may have been set with a different pre-load than stock, and that will cause them to whine when they break in. This happened to LittleG when he had his 4.10 rear built, but he changed the fluid after a week or two and it went away completely.

                - Justin
                <a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org\" target=\"_blank\">New Jersey F-Body Owners Association</a><br />1987 Camaro LT - 400sbc, Aluminum L98\'s w/valve job, Comp XE 274, Q-Junk 750, 3.23 posi, 4.10\'s soon.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=11\" target=\"_blank\">East Coast F-Body Nationals - August 14, 2005</a>

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                • #9
                  Warranty replaced it after I broke the stock one~I'll have 2 pull some stuff off but I can prolly turn it back in on the warranty... but I don't think they'll replace it unless it's like BROKE~what should I do? Try 2 break it on purpose or fix it? I'd rather fix it really... I don't want my car go'n on a roll back w/that body kit on.... I guess I'll go and get it looked at 1st b4 I do anything????

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                  • #10
                    Change your diff fluid before you do anything. It's cheap, and if there are metal pieces floating around in there, you WILL break something if you haven't already.

                    - Justin
                    <a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org\" target=\"_blank\">New Jersey F-Body Owners Association</a><br />1987 Camaro LT - 400sbc, Aluminum L98\'s w/valve job, Comp XE 274, Q-Junk 750, 3.23 posi, 4.10\'s soon.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=11\" target=\"_blank\">East Coast F-Body Nationals - August 14, 2005</a>

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