WHATS THE BEST REAREND FOR HIGH POWER 3.8? - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

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  • WHATS THE BEST REAREND FOR HIGH POWER 3.8?

    I would like to get the best rearend for my 96 3.8 that would hold up without throwing the abs light or ses light

  • #2
    if your willing to pay 2000-2500, the 9" Ford is the best...but unless your spends serious money on an aftermarket 3.8, i think a beefed up 10bolt will do...
    <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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    • #3
      My friend works for wayne jack who builds 9" ford rearends and he sells them for 1400.00 i can get one for 600-800 just buy parts. The only problem is the reluctor rings wont be there and the abs will be on

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      • #4
        The best rearend by far is the Moser 12 bolt. It can handle almost anything and is definantly worth the money. It can handle ABS, etc. and it won't throw any SES lights. Its stronger and better then the ford 9" and is backed by a fairly good warranty. Check out Moser's web page and check out the reviews in chevy high performance, etc.
        1994 Camaro<br />3.4L V6 Automatic<br />K&N FIPK&Gold Oil Filter,Ravin Performance Exhaustw/Dynomax MandrelBent3\"I-Pipe&S Pipe&Catco 3\" HiFlow Cat.,ASP Crank and High AMP Alternator,U.D. Pulley Set, Bosch Spark Plugs and Oxygen Sensors, Taylor Wires, B&M E.ShiftPlus, 160 thermostat,Zexel Torsen L.S.D., CSI Remote Mount Electric Water Pump & Temp. Controller & Flex Hoses, ALM. Drivshaft, Diamond SubFram Conn.<br />COMING SOON: 350 or 502 RAMJET ENGINE & Big Block Hood<br />NJ V6 F-Body Club<br /><a href=\"http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/\" target=\"_blank\">http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/</a><br />Street Lethal F-Body Association <br /><a href=\"http://www.slfba.com./index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.slfba.com./index.html</a>

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        • #5
          I'm still doing ok here
          1.630 60 ft's
          Is yours already toast??
          Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
          nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
          2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
          2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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          • #6
            whats wrong with a stock one? you should be good into the 11s with a stock one...and the stock one will cause the least amount of hp loss compared to a 12 bolt, and especially a 9 inch. you will slow down by going to either of those two cause of the extra mass and whatnot.
            \'01 TA with boltons, cam <b>11.28@119.72 (1.49)</b><br />\'97 Tahoe LT 4x4- stock

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            • #7
              it's not that much extra mass. also, there are enough things to take off or get lightened on our cars to more than make up for any added weight. the moser 12-bolt from SLP would be your best bet as far as ease of installation and not throwing any ses lights.
              2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />T-Tops, 3.42 rear gear stock<br />Mods:K&N Air Filter,Whisper Air Induction Lid, maf screen removed, raised air box, Kumho Ecsta 712 255-50-ZR16 tires, BMR stb<br />Mods not installed yet: FTRA, SLP Lsd/Differential cover<br />Near Future Mods: HPP3, GMMG 3\" Exhaust , 1LE Swaybars, Transgo Shift Kit, MSD-DIS-4 w/ Accel Coil-Packs, Turquoise Blue Neon Underbody Kit, BMR Adj. LCA\'s, G2 Sfc\'s & V-braces, Pacesetter headers

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              • #8
                James my rearend is ok i just wanted something 2 make me feel better [img]smile.gif[/img]
                roy, i seen 4 lt1 blow their rearends out neither one was running 11s, fastest was 12.5
                patrick thanks for the info, a few people told me moser rears su** but i dont know from experience

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                • #9
                  you have an auto first off. im willing to bet those LT1s were most likely 6 speeds or high millaged ones with a lot of racing on their rearends.

                  second- i know of people that have had their trannys go out at 20K miles. sometimes its a fluke.

                  i dont see you running 12s all the time, ie: off the bottle, so i dont see much stress on your rearend. thats just my opinion though. im cutting 1.5-1.6 60's and my rearend is still intact. i was going to buy a 12 bolt, but decided against it because i didnt have 2500 dollars just laying around. depending on what gear you have will change the chances of your rearend breaking too. a 3.73 is weaker than a 3.42 or lower gear. 4.10s are like glass on 6 speeds i hear.

                  if you DO decide to get a 12 bolt, i would get a strange. i hear bad things about mosers- especially fitment issues. again, thats just what ive heard though. just be willing to loose some ET if you go to a stronger rearend.

                  imo- i dont see your rearend breaking unless you have a 3.73+ gear and plan on spraying a 150+ shot out of the hole with a et street/drag on [img]smile.gif[/img]

                  [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                  \'01 TA with boltons, cam <b>11.28@119.72 (1.49)</b><br />\'97 Tahoe LT 4x4- stock

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                  • #10
                    a ford 9" is stronger than a 12 bolt, thats why they run them in nearly ALL fast race cars, the 12 bolt has less resistance but the 9" has a strong ring and pinion...
                    <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                    • #11
                      HPP mag (July 2002, Vol. 23, No. 7) featured a 10-second n/a 99 T/A by Cartek that uses the stock 7.5" 10-bolt. here's what they said:

                      "We set the backlash around 10 thousandths instead of the normal 7-10. This looser setup gets more fluid between the gear teeth, which doesn't bang the gears as hard on launch. It will make your rear noisier, but it lives longer."

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