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I tried a search under 'lock up swtch' and it had 3 posts but they did not answer my question.
I tried to dyno my bird but we ha problems with the converter locking and unlocking and I could only start the pull at 5000 rpm's.
The only way I could do a low rpm pull in third gear w/ converter locked is with a switch.
Has anyone done one of these?
I only want this for tuning on the dyno
Anyone?
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 12secondv6: I tried a search under 'lock up swtch' and it had 3 posts but they did not answer my question.
I tried to dyno my bird but we ha problems with the converter locking and unlocking and I could only start the pull at 5000 rpm's.
The only way I could do a low rpm pull in third gear w/ converter locked is with a switch.
Has anyone done one of these?
I only want this for tuning on the dyno
Anyone?<hr></blockquote>
actually the last time i tried to dyno my car, i ran into the same problems. it sucked that i couldnt get a good reading!
<b>2000 Firebird </b><br /><i>old setup </i>- Automatic Whisper lid, Borla catback, shift kit w/ V8 servo, 3.42 gears w/ LSD, PI 3000 converter, <br /><br /><i>14.703@90.92, 2.01 60\' </i>(intake and exhaust)<br /><br /><i> new setup </i> swapped over to LS1 413.9rwhp/398.7rwtq<br /><a href=\"http://www.thunderracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.thunderracing.com</a>
Forgive my ignorance, but is this for converters that dont' have lockup as a feature?
Or is this to turn OFF lockup for a better dyno reading?
I only ask because I plan to get a converter soon, and would like to better understand them first [img]smile.gif[/img]
Thanks.
[ October 24, 2002: Message edited by: ravenp ]</p>
1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>
James, MAgnus has a lockup switch on his car right now it is pretty easy to install u run a wire from the pcm pin (not sure what one) to a switch and then from the other prong on the switch u run a ground.
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69: James, MAgnus has a lockup switch on his car right now it is pretty easy to install u run a wire from the pcm pin (not sure what one) to a switch and then from the other prong on the switch u run a ground.<hr></blockquote>
i thought keith said he didnt and it was the worst idea ever to have one...
I have one but NEVER use it.. I did use it before though which I do regret.
Unless you have a special stronger clutch lockup verter, I say don't lock it up at the track.. even if you DID have one don't do it.. you'll go faster with it unlocked 90% of the time with our applicatoins.
I would however lock it up on the dyno for you big stall guys for a more accurate reading. It takes precision. You need to lock it up in third BEFORE you go wot.. let the converter lock up.. wait a few secons.. and THEN go.. if you do it at WOT you will put excess wear on the clutch surface.
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
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