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  • Help removing tranny

    It's been a day and a half now, and I'm still working on this damn clutch. I haven't even dropped the god d@mned tranny yet!!!! Am I removing the tranny AND the bellhousing, or unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing, then removing the tranny, then the bellhousing???????????????

    I've unbolted the tranny from the bellhousing, and I'm trying to pull it away, but it just won't come out.

    No, I will not take it to a shop... if you're going to put that in the reply, then don't waste your time. Someone who has installed a clutch themselves, please help me out. Thanks.
    -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

  • #2
    Sounds to me like the converter is catching. Kind of hard to tell not being able to see it.
    97 Red Firebird<br />Best N/A 1/4: 13.98<br />Best N/A MPH: 96.13<br />Best Nitrous 1/4: 12.49<br />Best Nitrous MPH: 108.53<p>2001 Pewter Camaro SS <br />GTP Stage II Heads, Pig Cam, Holley Intake, SLP Headers, SLP Lid, Vigalante 3600 Stall Converter, MagnaFlow Cat Back Exhaust, Duel Electric Cut-Outs<br />11.26@121

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    • #3
      uh redbird if its a manual i'm pretty sure it doesn't have a torque converter :D my .02 anyway

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      • #4
        I read royce's instructions, you are unbolting the bellhousing from the block.. you proably are having trouble getting to the top 2 bolts.. I don't think you can take the bellhousing off the tranny with it still attached to the car. the throwout bearing is catching
        -Brad
        98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
        2000 V-Star Custom 1100
        If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
        :rock:

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jay:
          uh redbird if its a manual i'm pretty sure it doesn't have a torque converter :D my .02 anyway<hr></blockquote>
          Whoops, didn't pay to much attention to his post, I am day dreaming at work so don't pay attention to me today


          Wavey guy says "don't listen to me either" [img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img]
          97 Red Firebird<br />Best N/A 1/4: 13.98<br />Best N/A MPH: 96.13<br />Best Nitrous 1/4: 12.49<br />Best Nitrous MPH: 108.53<p>2001 Pewter Camaro SS <br />GTP Stage II Heads, Pig Cam, Holley Intake, SLP Headers, SLP Lid, Vigalante 3600 Stall Converter, MagnaFlow Cat Back Exhaust, Duel Electric Cut-Outs<br />11.26@121

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          • #6
            Well, with a total of 25" of extensions, plus a universal joint on my 1/2" ratchet, I managed to get the top two bolts loose. Right now I don't have anyone to help me with the tranny so i'll wait till someone gets here to help me drop it. I actually got the top two out easier than the side ones, and much easier than the top ones that held the tranny to the bellhousing.

            I am somewhat worried though... I actually managed to get the tranny separated from the bellhousing about an inch or two.. it took LOTS of force to do it and I'm wondering what I broke doing it... had to break something using that kinda force... I just hope it's something I'm already replacing.

            Since I was dumb enough to try to get the tranny out of the bellhousing... I'll wear the dunce cap. [img]graemlins/dunce.gif[/img]
            -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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            • #7
              you have to get the tranny away from the bell houseing, it should slide straight back. then remove the bell housing which will be easily accessible. it will never come out or go in with the bell housing, you wont have enough room to clear/align the input shaft.

              you should have removed, torque arm, ds, exaust breaket, shifter, tranny from bell housing, slave cylinder, bell housing, then take out pressure plate, and clutch, and flywheel.

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              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tiago NOS'd Bird:
                you have to get the tranny away from the bell houseing, it should slide straight back. then remove the bell housing which will be easily accessible. it will never come out or go in with the bell housing, you wont have enough room to clear/align the input shaft.

                you should have removed, torque arm, ds, exaust breaket, shifter, tranny from bell housing, slave cylinder, bell housing, then take out pressure plate, and clutch, and flywheel.
                <hr></blockquote>

                I don't know how you 3.4's have it, but with the 3.8's you don't have to take out the torque arm, exhaust bracket and the slave cylinder is already connected to the tranny inside so it'll come out w/ the tranny.
                I didn't need to unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing and it came out fine. All this while the car is on 4 jackstands, about one foot in the air [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]
                Travis, it's ok if the tranny slides out a little from the bellhousing. Give me a call tomorrow around noon no matter what happens. You've got my # in my e-mail
                GM 3800 PowerPak guinea pig<p>\"what cam, that\'s just a nasty mis-fire...\"

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                • #9
                  I don't get it... all the bolts are out and the thing won't budge!! I can't twist it at all, and if I move it up and down, it moves along with the whole engine block... no amount of pulling, or prying for that matter, will move it at all. I've removed EVERYTHING: all 6 bolts on the bellhousing, plus the 4 on the oil pan-to-bellhousing brackets, the starter motor, the shifter, the crossmember under the tranny mount, the driveshaft, the torque arm bracket, and the inspection plate. When I try to move the tranny, I see the bellhousing separate a tiny bit on the passenger side, but the driver side stays solid, as if it were welded there. With the inspection plate off, I managed to get a crowbar between the engine block and the bellhousing and I pushed as hard as I could with my feet! Still no good. I even put the hydraulic line back on and pushed the clutch in, still it doesn't budge. Anyone have ideas?? Did I miss something???
                  -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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                  • #10
                    there must be some differences with the 3.4 to teh 3.8 [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    but check this, that little plate that bolts to the back of the bell housing that proteckts the clutch/flywheel and on my car it had a black bar taht went from the bell housing to the motor mount on the drivers' side, its not there no more since it didn't seem to serve a purpose, but check for it.... make sure you removed all 6 bellhousing bolts.... and removed all wiring lol..

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                    • #11
                      -----U did not mention anything about the FLYWHEEL....That is why the tranny moves with
                      the engine when u move it....the flywheel is part
                      of the engine and it is connected to the tranny....but u cant see that it is connected
                      because it is inside the bell housing....u can see
                      a small pan connected to the front of the bell housing where it is connected to the engine.....
                      take it off and u will see a small crack....
                      inside that crack is the FLYWHEEL...
                      here's the tricky part....u will have to rotate the flywheel to take out some screws.....
                      how do u rotate the flywheel?? Well, one of the pulleys of the engine moves the flywheel.....try
                      to find that pulley and rotate it.....once u see
                      the flywheel move u can be able to spot the NUTS OR SCREWS....I dont know how many r there(could be 5) but u will have to rotate the flywheel until u see another NUT OR SCREW...once they are loosened TA TA, the tranny would be seperated FROM THE ENGINE
                      97 3.8L Burgundy Firebird<br />==Homemade RamAir<br />==K&N Air Filter<br />==removed air silencer<br />==removed MAF screen<br />==180* thermostat<br />==80 series Flowmaster w/3\"polished tailpipes<br />==I painted the calipers(yellow)<br />==5% limo tint all around<br />==firechicken hood decal<br />==blackouts(LUNDZ) on taillights <br />==10 DISC Sony CD changer<br />Future Mods*** L36 Stage 1 package<br />(which includes ported heads, ported manifolds,& crankshaft)<p>My last name is Ramirez RAMairEZ

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                      • #12
                        Tiago, I'll check for that black bar on the driver's side, but I don't think there's anything there. I've already removed everything else you mentioned.

                        RAMairEZ, sounds like you're talking about the bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter on an automatic tranny. I have a five speed, hence no torque converter, so as far as I know I shouldn't have to remove any bolts from the flywheel.
                        -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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                        • #13
                          I helped my friend swap his automatic transmission to a manual transmission on a 98 Mustang GT. It had the Flywheel connected to the clutch plate...any type of manual transmission
                          (it could be in a Ryder truck, uhaul, or even
                          a pinto) should have a flywheel and it's clutch
                          plate. Not to let u down V6Beast, but this goes out to anyone----before u start a big project
                          w/o knowing too much about what u r going to
                          work on, do some RESEARCH.

                          [ November 18, 2001: Message edited by: RAMairEZ ]</p>
                          97 3.8L Burgundy Firebird<br />==Homemade RamAir<br />==K&N Air Filter<br />==removed air silencer<br />==removed MAF screen<br />==180* thermostat<br />==80 series Flowmaster w/3\"polished tailpipes<br />==I painted the calipers(yellow)<br />==5% limo tint all around<br />==firechicken hood decal<br />==blackouts(LUNDZ) on taillights <br />==10 DISC Sony CD changer<br />Future Mods*** L36 Stage 1 package<br />(which includes ported heads, ported manifolds,& crankshaft)<p>My last name is Ramirez RAMairEZ

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                          • #14
                            RAMairEZ, I know the clutch is bolted to the flywheel. I should, however, be able to remove the tranny and bellhousing, leaving the flywheel AND clutch attached to the engine block. I've done my research... you do yours.
                            -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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                            • #15
                              GOOD LUCK V6BEAST......just trying to help out
                              97 3.8L Burgundy Firebird<br />==Homemade RamAir<br />==K&N Air Filter<br />==removed air silencer<br />==removed MAF screen<br />==180* thermostat<br />==80 series Flowmaster w/3\"polished tailpipes<br />==I painted the calipers(yellow)<br />==5% limo tint all around<br />==firechicken hood decal<br />==blackouts(LUNDZ) on taillights <br />==10 DISC Sony CD changer<br />Future Mods*** L36 Stage 1 package<br />(which includes ported heads, ported manifolds,& crankshaft)<p>My last name is Ramirez RAMairEZ

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