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  • Transmission Noise??

    This is probably pretty obvoius for most of y'all, but I just wanted to see if there was anything I could do myself.

    Recently, I've started to hear a knocking noise from under the car. It sounds like it's coming from the transmission, and looking around under the car, nothing is loose. I haven't had any problems with the car, just this knocking noise which usually happens when I brake or go over bumps. Every now and then, I can hear it when I let off the gas after running it up to 4500+ rpms. I was wondering if there's anything I should check or just suck it up and take it to a shop and see if I have to drop a grand+ on transmission work. Thanks
    Proud Member of the Fightin Texas Aggie Class of 2004! WHOOP!

  • #2
    Maybe transmition mount. does the shifter jump up any when it happens?
    2002 Black FireBird M5 2-5-02<br />Red BMR strut bar<br />Dynomax Super Turbo muffler with FastToys.com tips.<br />4 Coats of Zaino - Better every time<p>Need to post pictures? Do it <a href=\"http://www.thenebula.com/carpics/\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. its <b>easy</b> and <b>free</b>.<br />Change your own oil. <a href=\"http://www.thenebula.com/firebird/oil/\" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.

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    • #3
      No, it doesn't ever jump. I want to think it's something like just mounts or something along those lines, cause I don't notice any problems with performance, just the vibrating/knocking noise. Could you give me a quick walk-though on how to check the mounts? I'm very inexperienced when it comes to transmissions and some internal engine stuff. Thanks for the help.
      Proud Member of the Fightin Texas Aggie Class of 2004! WHOOP!

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      • #4
        auto or manual trans?

        i know for the M5 you can crawl under there and visually inspect the mount for cracks, shearing, etc. you should have a black crossmember just towards the front of the trans; the mount is the rubber deal between the trans and the crossmember. i just replaced my stock mount with a polyurethane one and to my surprise, there was only one bolt hold the stock mount in! :mad: should have been two, some jackass forgot to put the old one back in or it backed itself out. i really hope it isn't the latter.

        your problem really sounds like the mount though. 2 hours work if you take a 1 hour break :D

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        • #5
          Since you also hear the noise when you back off of the gas, I would check your universal joints, especially the first one that connects the york to the driveshaft. When they go bad, you will hear a knocking noise when you accelerate or decelerate or shift from forward to reverse or vice versa. Sometimes a vibration can be felt/heard while at cruise.

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          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by RallyRed 98:
            your problem really sounds like the mount though. 2 hours work if you take a 1 hour break :D <hr></blockquote>

            :D Try like 30 mintues... Changing the tranny mount is a Quick job [img]smile.gif[/img]
            1997 Cayenne Red Metallic Camaro<br />3.8 V6 M5<br />SLP Cold Air Intake<br />Ceramic Coated Pacesetter Headers <br />Flowmaster American Thunder Catback<br />Full 3.42 & Disc Break Rear End Swap

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            • #7
              If it's an auto, you may have a cracked flexplate or even a broken torque converter hub. It the ticking is closer to the engine, you probably have one of those problems. It happened to me.
              180 Thermo, K&N Filter, Transgo stage 2, Pacesetters, Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Catback, 3.42 LSD, Hotchkis LCA/Panhard, Bilstein, Eibach Pro, 1LE bars, SP crossdrilled/slotted rotors.<br /><br />Vortech Project 1.0 failed.<br />Vortech Project 2.0 in the works

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              • #8
                After being home for a few days with a garage and tools, I went ahead and replaced the tranny mount. I figured if that wasn't it, it wouldn't hurt anything replacing it. Well, that's definatley not what is causing the noise, cause it's still doing it. I really think it's the drive-shaft (or the u-joints). Is there any specific way to check this? And if it is, would it be smarter to just get the u-joint fixed or just replace the drive shaft with a one-piece. Chances are, I'd have to get this done somewhere, cause I don't have enough experience on cars. Thanks for the help.
                Proud Member of the Fightin Texas Aggie Class of 2004! WHOOP!

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