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Bought and installed an B&M transpak shift kit, i'm definitely impressed with the results. The car shifts hard, there isn't ANY clutch flare between shifts, and on manual shifts it responds MUCH more quickly.
The instructions left a little to be desired though, so i thought i'd put this up so others can avoid the stupid problems i had.
1. Removing the 1-2 piston from the accumulator cover. DO NOT try to use a hammer or rubber mallet to tap the bottom of teh cover to get the piston out, this is how i broke mine. Instead, put a towel/rag/something over a bench vise so it is open slightly more than the opening for the piston and tap the the housing against it until you can get ahold of it to pull it out (or it falls out).
If you do break yours get the cover from a 700R4 (easy junkyard find) flip the piston so it's oriented the same way and use the spacers for the 94+ 4L60E as in the directions.
2. Beware breaking bolts (they suck) i broke 4 of them before 120 in/lbs on the torque wrench. I broke 3 of the long bolts (one for the accumulator, 2 through the valve body. And one of the shorter bolts.
I say get a whole new set of bolts for the whole thing, but, if you're in a fix and need it done yesterday autozone has M6 x 1.0 x 30 grade 10.9 flange cap screws you can use in it's place. Napa also has a LARGE selection of grade 8.8 metric bolts and washers you can use if you are in a bind.
3. If you do break a bolt get a set of craftsman blade type easy outs, you only need to drill or dremel a small divot in the broken piece for it to grip instead of drilling out 1/4" of bolt.
4. Ditch the cork gasket, go to the parts store and get a real gasket.
4. A tranny jack is your friend to drop the pan with fluid still in it without making a mess and to hold teh pan in place when you bolt it back to the tranny.
Just thought i'd share.
The instructions left a little to be desired though, so i thought i'd put this up so others can avoid the stupid problems i had.
1. Removing the 1-2 piston from the accumulator cover. DO NOT try to use a hammer or rubber mallet to tap the bottom of teh cover to get the piston out, this is how i broke mine. Instead, put a towel/rag/something over a bench vise so it is open slightly more than the opening for the piston and tap the the housing against it until you can get ahold of it to pull it out (or it falls out).
If you do break yours get the cover from a 700R4 (easy junkyard find) flip the piston so it's oriented the same way and use the spacers for the 94+ 4L60E as in the directions.
2. Beware breaking bolts (they suck) i broke 4 of them before 120 in/lbs on the torque wrench. I broke 3 of the long bolts (one for the accumulator, 2 through the valve body. And one of the shorter bolts.
I say get a whole new set of bolts for the whole thing, but, if you're in a fix and need it done yesterday autozone has M6 x 1.0 x 30 grade 10.9 flange cap screws you can use in it's place. Napa also has a LARGE selection of grade 8.8 metric bolts and washers you can use if you are in a bind.
3. If you do break a bolt get a set of craftsman blade type easy outs, you only need to drill or dremel a small divot in the broken piece for it to grip instead of drilling out 1/4" of bolt.
4. Ditch the cork gasket, go to the parts store and get a real gasket.
4. A tranny jack is your friend to drop the pan with fluid still in it without making a mess and to hold teh pan in place when you bolt it back to the tranny.
Just thought i'd share.
