So, since everything will be all apart soon talk to me on converters please

[12secondv6]

I understand the concept of converters.
I've driven a 99 z28 with a stock converter and then I went to pick it up when it had a 2800 stall converter installed and I damn near crapped myself with the difference.
I am not going for n/a times, only power adder times.
As it is I've put down 362 rwtq so off the line acceleration is quite nice.
I run a stock converter and 323's and I saw a 1.731 60 ft, pretty good huh?
I don't need a monster converter like 2800 and higher.
I don't want to sacrafice mph one bit.
Here and there I see 2200 and 2500 stall converters which might just work quite well.
Hell the 2200 might just be a bit better than I have but not enough to sacrafice mph.
Now please don't take this the wrong way but when I look at magnus' and spano's mph I don't want to get a great reduction in et but have a low mph. Now guys please don't take that the wrong way, it is in no way a bashing statement, just an observation.
I know when I spoke to Shirl she had a high stall converter and really didn't like it so she took it out.
My little motor will be out and I was thinking...... (which is always a scary and expensive thing)..... it would be soooo easy to remove that stock converter and put something better in.
I just found out I am getting my bonus feb 28th so maybe it might wait till then.
I just hate to yank it out then when I'll have it all apart.
Again magnus and spano, please don't take that statement the wrong way, I value your advice, knowledge, and experience.
Oh yeah, torque converter effeciency??? Can you explain that?

[jughead]

Get the 2800 like Spano... It ur wanting 2200 or 2500..you might as well get the 2800.

Ive talked to yank many times. The efficancy is like 97%. You might also want to get a TCC.

Get the 2800. You wont lose much MPH. With all that torque... I would say lo 1.6s aren't far.

[12secondv6]

I did not consider this advanced tech material.
I put it in the regular tech.
Any chance we have some info on this?
I'm not going with a 2800 stall converter.
It would be too much for my daily driver and what I want out of it

[DominusEtDeusNatus]

FYI, off the line acceleration is the biggest reason for buying a high stall converter. You say you're happy with yours so why buy a different one?

If in your opinion 2800 is too much for you then I doubt anything out there will give you any gains.

There are nitrous converters out there. They usually stall low NA. Yank extreme comes to mind. I haven't seen anyone buy under 2800 though.

[Magnus]

Going with a higher stall torque converter will get you out of the hole faster by putting you in your power band. It does this by allowing slippage. That slippage does hurt top end performance though. You already know all of this though....

So basically.. torque converter will get you a better ET but a worse MPH. If you want high MPH stick with the stock converter. If your willing to sacrafice a couple mph, maybe go with a mild converter.

Maybe a 2200 or 2500 converter would be nice for your setup. Add about 500 rpm's to the stall for when you hit nitrous though, so figure a 2500 NA would be a 3000 on the gun.

I think it would definately help you James (Why am I telling you this???!!! ;) ) but the bigger you go, the more MPH you will lose.

Yank has good nitrous converter.
Precision Industries has good converters as well.

Both companies will charge you quite a bit though.

When you do decide what you like, you should still talk to the manufacture quite a bit about your setup and how you want the converter to flash.

As far as effeciencies go, well Bill is the man to talk to about that.

[12secondv6]

Thanks, I do appreciate it

[SnkeSkiner]

Its basically the bigger stall the less MPH.

You will get out of the hole hard and lose a little top end.

[NJ SPEEDER]

hi james [img]smile.gif[/img]
here is the thing with convertors. there si peak performance and there is completely compromised, and not much in between.
for max ET(every car should be built for this [img]smile.gif[/img] ) you will want to chose a convertor that will bring th ecar out at or just above(with in 200rpm) the rpm at which peak torque occurs. this brings the car out of the hole on the absolute biggest part of the engines grunt(torque, not hp moves things). assuming the car can hook, this will get you best possible 60' because the engine is pushing with all its force right off the line.
compromise convertors on the other hand can be a little bit of a different story. one advantage you have is that you are runnign squeeze. that means that you can create stall speed on demand. the stall speed of a convertor is determined by engine power, vehicle weight, gearing and traction. when you tap the bottle you are making more power, assuming tha your traction stays the same, that will force the convertor to stall higher. in a typical nitrous launch with about a 125 shot most guys see around 600 more rpm of stall sped than when they run N/A(this is not a scientific point, just and observation over years of racing).
you best bet woudl be to take your dyno sheet and let yank, coan, precision industries, or any other good converter company see what they can make of it. just give them your combo at the same time, you may wanna wait until you have the car on a scale once you weight reduction stuff is all done to make it the most accurate it can be.

later
tim