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I recently got a one piece drive shaft. I used the same torque arm that the two piece used. I used to not get any wheel hop but now it feels almost if the back end is bouncing around during lauches on the street. Anybody else get this when making the swap?
p.s. I havent taken it to the track yet.
Andy Adamez<br />--------------------<br />3.8L 97 V6<br />Hurst Shifter w/ Home Made Handle, Hypertech 160 Thermo, Ported MAF, 5 Point Harness for Pass & Driver, Painted Valve Covers, Nitrous Express Wet EFI Kit
Get some lowering brackets or better control arms if you have wheel hop. Use the lowering brackets at the track only or drive slow on corners. They migth cause some bind.
hmm.. I wonder if hte 2-piece driveshaft helps "support the torque qrm a little. I noticed no problems when I installed mine. But it does sound like you need relocation brackets with your car bieng lowered.
I have a 95 T/A driveshaft (steel) that i put in my car annd gained 4 mph in the 1/4 mile. I have relocation brackets and lower control arms that i havent used yet at the track. And I never had any wheel hop.
The 2 piece steel drive shaft has a lot more rotating mass than the 1 piece aluminum.
When you decrease rotating mass you in turn increase rwhp.
Has anyone dynoed it, I don't think so.
Now you have a bit more power and you are getting wheel hop.
Lower trailing arms.
I run boxed hotchkis which completely eliminated wheel hop even with 4 10's
Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet
will there be a noticeable differnce going from 1 piece steel to 1 pc aluminium. Also would it be recomended to stay with 1pc steel if i get a 3000 stall converter and run a 100 shot
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
About the question, going from steel to aluminum, it is supposed to be about 10 pounds lighter. I have always heard that each 100 pounds is good for about a tenth in the quarter.
On another post in the last couple of days, I also saw where it only takes 10 pounds of rotating mass to get a tenth. If this estimate is accurate then you should gain as much by going to aluminum, as you would by dropping 100 pounds.
I don't think it would affect your wheel hop situation one way or the other.
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