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  • Whining from rear of car

    My car's been whining from the rear for a while now. At first I thought it was the sound the stock exhaust made (which was one more thing that fueled my desire for a cat back), but after installing the catback, it's still there. It only makes the whining sound when I'm over 35 or 40 mph and when I hit the gas. I think it may be the rear diff. My car has just under 15k miles on it (14600 I think). What kind of warenty does the rear diff have (if any) and how would you suggest repairing this? It gets very annoying on the highway. I don't have a job now, but over the summer I will, so if the only way to try to fix this is changing gears and puting in a LSD (if this will even fix it), it'll have to wait until then or maybe when I get tax returns. Sorry this is so long, but thanks for any help,

    Rob

    P.S.
    Does any one know why in the owners manual it says we have to change our auto transmission fluid and filter every 15k miles and in say...a suburban (like my dad's...) he can get away with only doing it every 50k? Sorry about that little vent, I just took my car in to get the fluid changed and it cost more than I was hoping.
    <b>2002 Pewter v6 Camaro</b><br />T-tops, Auto, stock GFX<br />mods: SSRA, Whisper lid, K&N filter, Borla cat-back, Pioneer HU, RF 6.5\" speakers, billet grill, clear corners, red tubing under hood, black CAMARO fill-in\'s, QTEC, GM power antenna, fan switch

  • #2
    might be gear whine but with stock gears its really not ususal.

    Matt
    -Matt<br />Manager/Tech Support<br />Precision Speed & High Performance<br /><br />visit us on the web at:<br /><a href=\"http://www.precisionspeedonline.net\" target=\"_blank\">www.precisionspeedonline.net</a>

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    • #3
      Sounds like gear whine to me.
      A lot of the V8's complain about it with the stock rear, although it seems rare with the V6's. Try taking it to the dealer and complaining. They may fix it or they may try to give you bs about it be "acceptable". Don't let them get away with any bs, they should fix it if there's noise.

      Chris
      <b>2002 BSM TransAm WS.6 M6</b><br /><b>350rwhp, 365rwtq</b><br /><b>Stock:</b>13.455 @ 105.39 2.129 60\'<br /><b>Mod:</b>12.449 @ 113 1.832 60\'<br /><br /><b>2004 QSM GTO M6</b><br /><b>303rwhp, 329rwtq</b><br />Stock: 13.74 @ 102.14 2.1 60\'<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/silvertaws6</a> <br /><br /><b>1984 Firebird S/E M5</b><br />2.8L

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      • #4
        My stock rear is whining, but it has 106k and was run very low on oil for a while.
        <a href=\"http://www.fatninjas.com/camaro\" target=\"_blank\">\'96 Camaro Convertible</a>

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        • #5
          Well, I'm going to take it to the dealer today or tomorrow after classes and see what they say. I'll update it when I find out. If they say it's going to cost me or some other [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] like that, I'll just wait until summer and have new gears put in [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] .

          Rob
          <b>2002 Pewter v6 Camaro</b><br />T-tops, Auto, stock GFX<br />mods: SSRA, Whisper lid, K&N filter, Borla cat-back, Pioneer HU, RF 6.5\" speakers, billet grill, clear corners, red tubing under hood, black CAMARO fill-in\'s, QTEC, GM power antenna, fan switch

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          • #6
            As far as your Dad's Suburban...it's a different vehicle! You can't expect to have to the same maintanance on two different vehicles, especially when they are for different purposes.

            You can't ask why your Civic won't go 200 MPH just because a Diablo does... Simillar question.

            However, I can tell you that most likely the Suburban is toting around a 4L80-E, not the 4L60-E that you have. They require different treatment, and maintenance.
            Even if your Suburban had a 4L60-E. Since a Suburban has plenty of room for packaging, it probably has an external automatic transmission cooler aside from the radiator.

            If you want to lower the costs of your transmission fluid flush. I would suggest getting a deep sump transmission pan, that has a drain plug. That way, it'll cost you about 10-15 bucks for a half-case or full case of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). It is just like changing your oil, so you can do it at home.

            A pan will run you about 150 bucks - look for them in Summit and Jegs.

            If you want to make your transmission last for a very long time. I would also add the following:
            - Corvette Servo, and shift kit (quicker shifts build up less heat)
            - remote relocation filter (uses a spin-on style oil filter for your transmission, much easier to change and does a better job.
            - Auxillary tranny cooler.

            Your goal is to eliminate the most heat you possibly can. 90+% of all automatic transmission (AT) failures are due to heat, not mechnical failure.

            - So if you add a deep sump pan that holds more fluid, (about 2 full quarts more) it takes longer to heat up, and displaces more heat. Plus most pans today have heat fins to help cool the fluid in the pan when you are driving.
            - A shift kit makes the clutchs engage for a shorter time, and hence builds up less heat.
            - Remote Relocation Filter, allows you to change your ATF without removing the pan, and getting a new gasket, new (in-pan) tranny filter, messy etc. You just use a regular PH8A oil filter for the engine, spin it on and you're done. The relocation kit, you put anywhere you like, prefferably with easy access, and if possible a place where it will draw some air too. A filter kit will hold a tad more fluid adding to the heat displacement. And overall, changing your fluid every 15,000 miles ensures that the fluid stays in good condition to do its job instead of being broken down by heat.
            - The auxillary cooler, is self-explanatory. I suggest routing it so that it is intergrated with the cooling lines that run through the radiator, and before it. That way, the fluid passes through the external cooler, lowers the temperature, and then feeds it to the radiator to be cooled again...or slightly warmed depending on how efficient both are. What I mean by that is say that going to the cooler your trans temp is 250 degrees, and then after the cooler its 150 degrees. Well, it cooled it off alright, but that will do just as much damage as too much heat. Its like running your engine at 150 degrees - not good, its too cold for proper operation. So by passing it through the radiator it will be warmed up to 160-210 degrees, preferably 185. And then sent back to the transmission.

            Doing all this will save you $$$ in the long run. To have the shift kit and installed you are probably looking around 200 bucks? The pan you can do yourself, along with the relocation kit, and transmission cooler. So they will only cost you parts.

            Total you may spend over 500 dollars, but in the face of a 1,200 dollar transmission rebuild, its a worth while investement. And you don't have to get them all at the same time. Its just like building the engine, do it in steps. But when everyone elses clutch bands are starting to slip at 100,000 miles, you'll still be chirping second gear for another 100,000 miles.
            <b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"

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            • #7
              The guy called my dad (not me) so my dad relayed the message to me. Apparently they had to order some parts and they put them on today. After putting them on "it stoped making noise under acceleration, but now it makes noise decelerating." It didn't make noise accelerating, it did it anytime I gave it gas. Now they're saying it'll be ready Monday or Tuesday. My dad said they probably don't know what's wrong with it.

              Bliggida (or anyone else that knows for that matter): I saw a couple of the filter relocation kits on Summit's site - where would you suggest mounting this? Also, I found a couple sites telling how to install a tranny cooler, but they all mounted it in the middle of the radiator (sp). Would it be fine for cooling of the car (tranny and radiator) if I put it to the side and had a FTRA also? I'm going to get a FTRA eventually, but looks like I'm going to get the tranny stuff first.

              Thanks, Rob
              <b>2002 Pewter v6 Camaro</b><br />T-tops, Auto, stock GFX<br />mods: SSRA, Whisper lid, K&N filter, Borla cat-back, Pioneer HU, RF 6.5\" speakers, billet grill, clear corners, red tubing under hood, black CAMARO fill-in\'s, QTEC, GM power antenna, fan switch

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