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  • Pinion seal leaking, How difficult to replace?

    While the exhaust shop had my car up on the lift welding everything up I went ahead and did a thorough visual inspection of the undercarriage.

    I noticed my pinion seal is leaking somewhat and since I've never replaced one I'd like to know how difficult it is to do so.

    As always any help is appreciated.

  • #2
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nova:
    I noticed my pinion seal is leaking somewhat and since I've never replaced one I'd like to know how difficult it is to do so.<hr></blockquote>

    Mine (a '98) has been leaking for 3 years now... I should have gotten it fixed under warranty, but I thought the place that changed the diff grease at 10,000 just got it everywhere, so I didn't really check it out. It wasn't until a year or so ago, that I actually got under there and figured out where it's coming from. It doesn't leak onto the ground, it just seeps out and coats the torque arm.

    I asked about this a couple of months ago, and the answer was you have to take the pinion gear out, and put in a new crush sleeve, etc. Resetting clearances and all that, like setting up a new diff.

    I still wonder if you can't just unbolt the yoke, replace the seal, and put the yoke back in there...

    But since the seepage is minimal, I am just letting it go for now.
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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    • #3
      hmm if youre thinking about getting it done, go ahead and do a gear/diff swap while ur in there, it worked for me and convincing my parents. :D
      98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited<br /><br /><br />MODS:<br />180* t-stat, K&N FIPK, mopar ECU,<br />mike leach long tube headers+3\" y-pipe, 3\" all the way out flowmaster 50 series, mopar magnum 2bbl m1 intake manifold, APS 52mm throttle body, powerslots, 2 JL 10w3\'s

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      • #4
        Screw all that. I'm planning on swapping in a Z-28 rear in the next few months anyway so I'll leave it.

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        • #5
          Just make sure you get down there and check the fluid level. You don't want to get stuck somewhere with a seized up rear. I had a minor leak coming from my pinion seal, so I mixed 50% 90w and 50% 120w of gear oil and the leak went away.

          -Marc
          sigpic

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          • #6
            I was told by a very reliable source that you could just pull the yoke and put in a new seal... Does anyone have confirmation about this?
            <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.chitownracing.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.chitownracing.com</a>

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            • #7
              you can just replace the pinion seal but you need to be careful. you will need to measure the existing preload on the pinion shaft with a inch-pound torque wrench. after you put the seal in, you will need to restore this preload setting (and original position of the yoke w/ respect to the pinion shaft) so that the pinion/crush sleeve is back in its original position. you dont want the crush sleeve loose or collapse it more since this would change the pinion depth. the haynes manual covers this procedure (but its the basically the same for all rear differentials)

              [ November 03, 2002: Message edited by: chas ]</p>

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