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  • #31
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by camaro_zach:
    www.mavness.com/zachds.gif

    thats what i have to say about aluminum driveshafts...hahah...it broke on my way to the national corvette museaum while i was doin 110...not pretty..
    <hr></blockquote>

    wait, are you serious???
    Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

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    • #32
      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 3.4-Wraith:
      I saw a gain of .2 in the 1/4 mile with it. <hr></blockquote>

      same here. 0.2 sec gain.

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      • #33
        No track gains noticed but quicker rev's off the line and higher rpm's.
        This could relate to less rotating mass.
        Race car - gone but not forgotten - 1997 firebird V6
        nitrous et & mph: 12.168 & 110.95 mph, n/a 13.746 & 96.38 mph
        2013 Dodge Challenger SRT8: 12.125, 116.45
        2010 Ford Taurus SHO: no times yet

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        • #34
          these driveshafts (aluminum) come stock on ls1's that ARE, mind you, equipped with over 100 ft-lbs more torque than our cars are STOCK, so i HONESTLY doubt that unless your ds has some serious problems and/or (probably and) you drive your car really terribly, are you going to see some breakage or problems with the driveshaft. also, if you really suck at installing it as well. if it were me, i would install it myself, because that's an important part of the car, and if someone messes up doing it, then it's your life at risk. if you do it yourself, you'll know if you did it well enough to feel safe or not. that's all i have to say about that.

          now as far as .2 track gains, that's bs. keep in mind that everytime you go to the track, conditions are different, your car performs differently, and there is such a SLIGHT chance you will ever run the same times twice, even if you go in the "same" conditions. so .2 is retarted. an aluminum driveshaft has been dynoed at 7 more rwhp and with 10 lbs lighter...that does NOT in any way equal .2 of a second. i'm sorry, but you are wrong.
          2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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          • #35
            I never really though about a driveshaft!
            Anybody know what I've got stock on a 2002?
            2002 CAMARO \"RS\"<br /> 3800/M5/Y87

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            • #36
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Only4U:
              now as far as .2 track gains, that's bs. keep in mind that everytime you go to the track, conditions are different, your car performs differently, and there is such a SLIGHT chance you will ever run the same times twice, even if you go in the "same" conditions. so .2 is retarted. an aluminum driveshaft has been dynoed at 7 more rwhp and with 10 lbs lighter...that does NOT in any way equal .2 of a second. i'm sorry, but you are wrong.<hr></blockquote>

              Ouch, that's harsh man. [img]smile.gif[/img] I have to dispute one thing you said above. Depending on your setup, you coudl have extremely consistant times! I do with my 3.08's. Last day of the seasons I made 9 passes ranging from 15.8 to 16.0, including 4 in a row all withing 5 100th's of a second.

              So on MY car it would be entirely possible to determine it's effectiveness... or at least AVERAGE effectiveness [img]smile.gif[/img]

              The other thing, remember the ds is 10lb's lighter but it's also 10lbs less rotating mass, which is more significant in transferring torque to the rear wheels.

              All that said, I think it's impossible to say what it will do for you 1/4 mile wise for every car... it will react differently to different setups right?
              1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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              • #37
                So.. Driveshaft from LS1 and LT1 are compatible with 3.8?
                What about the one from Corvette?
                1997 Camaro Y87. Turbo.<br /><a href=\"http://pureoctaneracing.net/\" target=\"_blank\">Pure Octane Racing</a>

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                • #38
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ravenp:


                  Ouch, that's harsh man. [img]smile.gif[/img] I have to dispute one thing you said above. Depending on your setup, you coudl have extremely consistant times! I do with my 3.08's. Last day of the seasons I made 9 passes ranging from 15.8 to 16.0, including 4 in a row all withing 5 100th's of a second.

                  So on MY car it would be entirely possible to determine it's effectiveness... or at least AVERAGE effectiveness [img]smile.gif[/img]

                  The other thing, remember the ds is 10lb's lighter but it's also 10lbs less rotating mass, which is more significant in transferring torque to the rear wheels.

                  All that said, I think it's impossible to say what it will do for you 1/4 mile wise for every car... it will react differently to different setups right?
                  <hr></blockquote>

                  the 10 lbs of less rotating mass is where you get the 7 extra horsepower, that's the ONLY reason you get that extra hp. and it's 10 lbs lighter. so, judging by the roundabout figures for figuring out 1/4 mile times:

                  100 lbs is .1 of a second
                  so 10 lbs is .01 of a second

                  10 hp is .1 of a second
                  so 7 hp is .07 of a second

                  .07 seconds + .01 seconds = .08 seconds

                  like i said, there is no way you'd get much more than that with just changing out your driveshaft.
                  2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

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                  • #39
                    yeah, if you only get 7.. i thought i heard some higher numbers... anyways, no biggie. i'm getting one because it's a drivetrain mod to help my auto... [img]smile.gif[/img]
                    1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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                    • #40
                      only4u
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> 100 lbs is .1 of a second
                      so 10 lbs is .01 of a second <hr></blockquote>

                      That 100 lb figure is for weight of the car. The 10 lb figure is for rotating mass. These are two totally diffent things.
                      \'95 Med. Quasar Blue Camaro 3.4 A4<br />Bunch o\' mods<br /><b>10.18 @ 67.60 mph 2.22 60 ft (1/8 mile)</b> <br /><br />-1986 Camaro with a carbed 350<br /><b>8.53 @ 81.45mph 1.8 60\'</b><br />AIM CamaroL32

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                      • #41
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by CamaroL32:
                        only4u


                        That 100 lb figure is for weight of the car. The 10 lb figure is for rotating mass. These are two totally diffent things.
                        <hr></blockquote>

                        Yeah, but as he said, the 10lbs rotating accounted for 7hp PLUS the .01 tenths reduction [img]smile.gif[/img]

                        Anyways, I never wanted this thread to turn into a war... come on guys. I just want to hear people's experiences.

                        If you saw 2 tenths, great! IF someone doesn't beleive that, keep it to yourself. I'm not stupid, I take feedback not as an absolute law but as the impressions of those that give it.

                        Thanks...and have a nice day :D
                        1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>

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