Transmission Installation?

[whiteshark]

Sorry if this has been asked before, did a search but couldn't find anything. How hard would it be to install a transmission? I ask this because I have a feeling my tranny is going out, and the 1k+ rebuild cost will put an extreme dent in my checking account. I see trannys on ebay and here going for less than 500 bucks with fairly low miles. Seems like buying one of those and putting it in would be alot easier (at least on my wallet) Could I do it with some jack stands, ramps, a couple friends and an afternoon? Or is it pretty difficult?

[ May 22, 2003: Message edited by: whiteshark ]</p>

[Bliggida]

Pulling the tranny and re-installing it are pretty straight forward.

All the steps are lined out in the Hanyes and Chilton manuals.

Basically you remove your driveshaft, front torque arm, and crossmember (support the tranny with a jack, motor too) disconnect your trans lines, linkage, any electrical wires attaching the tranny to the engine or engine wiring harness. Disconnect the throttle cable/downshift (detent) cable, but now that I think about it the 4L60-E..is Electronicly shifted, shouldn't need or have a detent cable?)
Anyway, after everything else is clear and free. Loosen the bolts holding your converter to your flywheel. And there should be about 6 bolts holding the tranny onto the back of the engine. Put a jack under the tranny wriggle it free and lower it.

Can be done with a swap in a day. An actual transmission jack makes it a lot easier, but you can do so without it. A friend or two are a major asset.

Don't forget to pull the dipstick tube for the tranny sometimes before pulling the tranny out.

[BillyCobin]

Yeah, there won't be a throttle cable.

I pulled mine in my 1 car garage on jack stands in the middle of a Minnesota winter. My biggest problem was getting the bolts out that hold the transmission to the engine. I had to use this socket, and a cheater bar to get at the top two bolts. The factory puts some type of lock-tite on them, once you get them the first quarter turn, they come out easy.

Also, take the top bolts out first, and leave the bottom bolt on each side for last. That way you won't be messing with the hardest bolts AND worrying about the transmission falling.

BTW, I got a '96 4L60E with 54k miles for $320 shipped off of a message board.

[Bliggida]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by BillyCobin:
Also, take the top bolts out first, and leave the bottom bolt on each side for last. That way you won't be messing with the hardest bolts AND worrying about the transmission falling.<hr></blockquote>

While the chance is rare, I would like to point out that in the event of the transmission shifting, if it falls, only having the two outer side bolts (and the dowel pins) to hold the transmission in place could cause the transmission to put enough stress on its 'ears' and snap them...tranny good or bad - you're need a whole new case as the bellhousing and case are one integral unit. I mention this because I have seen it before. I know it's hard, but I personally like to play it safe and take the top bolt out last. So that the dowel pins on both sides support the tranny, and the top bolt distributes the weight evenly over a triangle. (strongest shape in geometry) Getting the top bolt out is not killer provided you have the right tools.