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I ordered my vete servo, got the B&M shift kit. (not the electronic one). The guy i bought the servo from offa ebay says that i should look at getting a .500 boost valve. He seems pretty knowledgeable. Im gonna include a copy of the email he sent me. Lemme know what ya think.
Glad you like the Servo Brandon. The difference between the stage 1 and 2 kits is the shift control. Stage 1 will maintain all the factory safety items. You won't be able to down shift if you are going to fast for that gear (example: won't go into first gear at 50mph). Up-shifting will be controlled by the governor not the shifter. Sometimes you can shift to the next gear but the tranny will stay in that gear until a certain rpm when the governor will let it finally shift up.
Stage 2 should allow you to do the above without the factory tranny safeties. When you shift up it will instantly shift up. If you go to first gear at 50mph it will go into first gear. TransGo now call this "manual control" when it really isn't. You can start in drive and it will shift like normal. Real "manual control" is: you must manually shift through each gear each time you stop and start. if you accidentally started in third gear you would be in third gear when you started to move.
Stage 1 and 2 will both function in drive just like normal (don't have to manually shift each gear). They both should have the same pressure modifications and hole sizes drilled into the separator plate.
Stage 2 is good if you are going to start racing it. It lets you shift right when you move the shifter for more consistent shifts or ETs. Same with being on the street, sometimes you may want to hit first gear at 25-30mph snd stage 2 will, were as stage 1 may or may not depending on the governor.
The V-6 trannys are built a little softer for some reason. The servo is a great upgrade. The boost valve will be smaller than the V-8 boost valves. The tranny will have less clutches in most of the clutch packs than the V-8 ones including the important 3-4 clutch pack. If your tranny is a 4L60-E it may already have the 13 vane pump but I think those didn't start until 1997.
The 13 vane pump is a higher volume pump. It will provide more volume at a higher rpm than your current 10 vane pump. The 10 vane pumps will shift softer as the rpms get above 5,000-5,500 or so. The 13 vane pump will keep volume up to 6,500-7,000 rpms. The thirteen vane pump kit comes with the upgrade heavy duty support rings that won't break and new heavier support springs.
The overall pressure is controlled by the spring on the pressure regulator valve. It should come in the shift kit. It works in turn with the boost valve, TV cable and the governor assembly. The pressure regulator spring and boost valve are both located in the pump housing and can be changed fairly easily from under the oil pan when doing the shift kit (inside snap rings hold them in place).
The pressure regulator spring controls the maximum pressure the transmission will see. The boost valve controls how fast the tranny gets to that maximum pressure. The TV cable and governor limit this based on how much gas pedle/rpm you are giving it (4L60-E does this electronically). Your don't need to be at full pressure while sitting at a stop light or doing 15mph in 2nd gear, ect. The pump controls the amount of oil available to use.
The TV cable has a big check ball under it inside the valve body. This check ball limits it's adjustment to about 20lbs difference in pressure. Most shift kits will have you leave this ball out. Then as you adjust the TV cable you can get more pressure out of it (again, except for the 4L60-E).
The boost valve tends to wear out. They recommend changing it at every rebuild. The factory has different size boost valves for different shift qualities. The larger the boost valve the faster it lets the tranny see max pressure. The V-6s have one of the smaller ones .453 or so. The biggest factory one is a .471 diameter (measuring the small piston inside). You can get a .500 size one from the after market. This is a good upgrade for any kind of performance changes. I do have one of those left in stock for the 700-R4 and the 4L60 but, the 4L60-E takes a different style and it runs $25-30.00. Still works and installs the same.
WOW, lots to process. It is pretty much dependent on what you want to do and how you are going to drive the car. If you are not too rpm crazy with it then I would: stage 2 shift kit, servo and .500 boost valve. That can all be done from under the oil pan. If it will see some rpms and lots of track time and higher rpms, then I would suggest changing to the 13 vane pump. If you decide to get that far into the tranny, then I would also suggest installing a 3-4 commercial clutch kit. The factory 3-4 clutch pack only has 4 or 5 skinny clutches inside and it is real weak spot. Your V-6 should only have 4 at the most. The commercial pack lets you install up to 9 clutches and reduce the clutch pack clearance. The extra clutches will hold better durring the 2 to 3 shift, and the tighter clearance will make for a much faster 2 to 3 shift. The factory has the clearance set up at .090-.110 when you can adjust it down to .040-050. 2nd to 3rd is usually a soft shift because of this factory loose clearance, even with the help of the shift kit. Then on the way back together I would install a Kevlar or Red Race Power band. The power band is wider than the stock band and has a stronger end so it won't break off. The band is second gear and fourth gear. Second gear gets used hard when you are hot rodding.
Anyway, I hope I haven't over loaded you. The 700/4l60s are somewhat tricky with lots to watch for. Let me know what you think, or if I just created more questions and confusion. We can go from there. I do have everything I mentioned in stock except for the 4L60-E .500 boost valve (I can get locally though). Here is the list again if it helps some. Thanks, Randy.
700-R4 items.
1. .500 Boost valve. $14.00.
2. Servo kit (corvette servo, .500 boost valve, 2 accumulators) $29.00.
3. 700r4 red race band $13.00.
4. Kevlar band $15.00.
5. Chrome pan std with drain plug. $20.00.
6. Chrome pan (deep) with drain plug. $25.00.
7. Chrome "pan-filter-cork gasket" set $26.00 std, $31.00 deep.
8. 13 vane pump kit. $45.00
9. Kevlar "power band" 2 5/8 wide $33.00.
10. Alto Red Race "power band" 2 5/8 wide $29.00.
11. Corvette servo. $16.00
12. 3-4 commercial clutch pack, installs up to 9 clutches. $32.00.
13. TransGo shift kit 700jr. $32.00
14. TransGo shift kit 700 (stage 1). $42.00
15. TransGo shift kit stage 2 & 3 (up to full manual control). $82.00
16. Various rebuild kits for the street and full race kits.
A. Deluxe Blue Plate race kit. 700-R4 / 4L60 1987-93 Includes: Overhaul kit (paper, rubber, seals, sealing rings), Borg Warner race Blue Plate friction clutches, Kolene coated steels, Borg/Warn high static band, filter, sprags, major bushings, washers kit. $275.00
B. Super Master kit, 700-R4 / 4L60 1987-93 Includes: Overhaul kit (paper, rubber, seals, sealing rings), Borg Warner friction clutches, steel clutches, Borg band, filter, pump bushing, pump seal retainer, servo piston (Corvette style), 2 accumulator pistons, .500 boost valve. $110.00
C. Deluxe kit. 700-R4 / 4L60 1987-93 Includes: Overhaul kit (paper, rubber, seals, sealing rings), Borg Warner friction clutches, steel clutches, Borg band, filter, major bushings, washer kit. $98.00
D. Master kit, 700-R4 87-93 Includes: Overhaul kit, Borg Warner friction clutches, steel clutches. $80.00
Glad you like the Servo Brandon. The difference between the stage 1 and 2 kits is the shift control. Stage 1 will maintain all the factory safety items. You won't be able to down shift if you are going to fast for that gear (example: won't go into first gear at 50mph). Up-shifting will be controlled by the governor not the shifter. Sometimes you can shift to the next gear but the tranny will stay in that gear until a certain rpm when the governor will let it finally shift up.
Stage 2 should allow you to do the above without the factory tranny safeties. When you shift up it will instantly shift up. If you go to first gear at 50mph it will go into first gear. TransGo now call this "manual control" when it really isn't. You can start in drive and it will shift like normal. Real "manual control" is: you must manually shift through each gear each time you stop and start. if you accidentally started in third gear you would be in third gear when you started to move.
Stage 1 and 2 will both function in drive just like normal (don't have to manually shift each gear). They both should have the same pressure modifications and hole sizes drilled into the separator plate.
Stage 2 is good if you are going to start racing it. It lets you shift right when you move the shifter for more consistent shifts or ETs. Same with being on the street, sometimes you may want to hit first gear at 25-30mph snd stage 2 will, were as stage 1 may or may not depending on the governor.
The V-6 trannys are built a little softer for some reason. The servo is a great upgrade. The boost valve will be smaller than the V-8 boost valves. The tranny will have less clutches in most of the clutch packs than the V-8 ones including the important 3-4 clutch pack. If your tranny is a 4L60-E it may already have the 13 vane pump but I think those didn't start until 1997.
The 13 vane pump is a higher volume pump. It will provide more volume at a higher rpm than your current 10 vane pump. The 10 vane pumps will shift softer as the rpms get above 5,000-5,500 or so. The 13 vane pump will keep volume up to 6,500-7,000 rpms. The thirteen vane pump kit comes with the upgrade heavy duty support rings that won't break and new heavier support springs.
The overall pressure is controlled by the spring on the pressure regulator valve. It should come in the shift kit. It works in turn with the boost valve, TV cable and the governor assembly. The pressure regulator spring and boost valve are both located in the pump housing and can be changed fairly easily from under the oil pan when doing the shift kit (inside snap rings hold them in place).
The pressure regulator spring controls the maximum pressure the transmission will see. The boost valve controls how fast the tranny gets to that maximum pressure. The TV cable and governor limit this based on how much gas pedle/rpm you are giving it (4L60-E does this electronically). Your don't need to be at full pressure while sitting at a stop light or doing 15mph in 2nd gear, ect. The pump controls the amount of oil available to use.
The TV cable has a big check ball under it inside the valve body. This check ball limits it's adjustment to about 20lbs difference in pressure. Most shift kits will have you leave this ball out. Then as you adjust the TV cable you can get more pressure out of it (again, except for the 4L60-E).
The boost valve tends to wear out. They recommend changing it at every rebuild. The factory has different size boost valves for different shift qualities. The larger the boost valve the faster it lets the tranny see max pressure. The V-6s have one of the smaller ones .453 or so. The biggest factory one is a .471 diameter (measuring the small piston inside). You can get a .500 size one from the after market. This is a good upgrade for any kind of performance changes. I do have one of those left in stock for the 700-R4 and the 4L60 but, the 4L60-E takes a different style and it runs $25-30.00. Still works and installs the same.
WOW, lots to process. It is pretty much dependent on what you want to do and how you are going to drive the car. If you are not too rpm crazy with it then I would: stage 2 shift kit, servo and .500 boost valve. That can all be done from under the oil pan. If it will see some rpms and lots of track time and higher rpms, then I would suggest changing to the 13 vane pump. If you decide to get that far into the tranny, then I would also suggest installing a 3-4 commercial clutch kit. The factory 3-4 clutch pack only has 4 or 5 skinny clutches inside and it is real weak spot. Your V-6 should only have 4 at the most. The commercial pack lets you install up to 9 clutches and reduce the clutch pack clearance. The extra clutches will hold better durring the 2 to 3 shift, and the tighter clearance will make for a much faster 2 to 3 shift. The factory has the clearance set up at .090-.110 when you can adjust it down to .040-050. 2nd to 3rd is usually a soft shift because of this factory loose clearance, even with the help of the shift kit. Then on the way back together I would install a Kevlar or Red Race Power band. The power band is wider than the stock band and has a stronger end so it won't break off. The band is second gear and fourth gear. Second gear gets used hard when you are hot rodding.
Anyway, I hope I haven't over loaded you. The 700/4l60s are somewhat tricky with lots to watch for. Let me know what you think, or if I just created more questions and confusion. We can go from there. I do have everything I mentioned in stock except for the 4L60-E .500 boost valve (I can get locally though). Here is the list again if it helps some. Thanks, Randy.
700-R4 items.
1. .500 Boost valve. $14.00.
2. Servo kit (corvette servo, .500 boost valve, 2 accumulators) $29.00.
3. 700r4 red race band $13.00.
4. Kevlar band $15.00.
5. Chrome pan std with drain plug. $20.00.
6. Chrome pan (deep) with drain plug. $25.00.
7. Chrome "pan-filter-cork gasket" set $26.00 std, $31.00 deep.
8. 13 vane pump kit. $45.00
9. Kevlar "power band" 2 5/8 wide $33.00.
10. Alto Red Race "power band" 2 5/8 wide $29.00.
11. Corvette servo. $16.00
12. 3-4 commercial clutch pack, installs up to 9 clutches. $32.00.
13. TransGo shift kit 700jr. $32.00
14. TransGo shift kit 700 (stage 1). $42.00
15. TransGo shift kit stage 2 & 3 (up to full manual control). $82.00
16. Various rebuild kits for the street and full race kits.
A. Deluxe Blue Plate race kit. 700-R4 / 4L60 1987-93 Includes: Overhaul kit (paper, rubber, seals, sealing rings), Borg Warner race Blue Plate friction clutches, Kolene coated steels, Borg/Warn high static band, filter, sprags, major bushings, washers kit. $275.00
B. Super Master kit, 700-R4 / 4L60 1987-93 Includes: Overhaul kit (paper, rubber, seals, sealing rings), Borg Warner friction clutches, steel clutches, Borg band, filter, pump bushing, pump seal retainer, servo piston (Corvette style), 2 accumulator pistons, .500 boost valve. $110.00
C. Deluxe kit. 700-R4 / 4L60 1987-93 Includes: Overhaul kit (paper, rubber, seals, sealing rings), Borg Warner friction clutches, steel clutches, Borg band, filter, major bushings, washer kit. $98.00
D. Master kit, 700-R4 87-93 Includes: Overhaul kit, Borg Warner friction clutches, steel clutches. $80.00
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