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I was just wondering when do you need to change transmission oil on an automatic car? I've almost got 30k on my car (it had an oil change couple weeks ago)and the guy at Jiffy Lube was telling my I should have done it then but I didn't bother.
Any suggestions?
i think the haynes reccomends something like every 30k or 36k miles. cant remember which. its a good idea to get it done.
however, your local quick change oil place is not likely to give you the best price or service when it comes to the changing the atf. they know how to change oil. other than that i keep them away from the car.
Well I'm not letting a dealer do it. Last time I gave my car to a dealer I ended up with a full engine replacement that they refused to pay for (until our court date).
Jiffy Lube uses a machine called a T-tech. It connects into the lines that bring tranny fluid in to the radiator. They start the car, the old fluid goes out one line, and the new fluid goes in from the other line. It works pretty well, when its finished the color of the fluid coming out is the same as the new fluid going in. The only thing that could make the change better in my opinion is if the tranny pan was actually taken off to change the filter and clean the magnet. The t-tech works pretty well though, I have done it to my car.
[ July 19, 2002: Message edited by: PiLOTLiTE ]</p>
why dont they do that with oil? just backflush the engine through the filter and you could use the same filter over and over and over.
i like the trans flush machine but you really need to drop the pan, clean it and replace the filter before you go flushing all the debris from the filter through the transmission.
When I change it I do it twice. It seems like a pain, but there is over a quart of oil in the TC. I change it and drive around for a day and change it again. But if you change it regularly then you don't have to do it. Last time my fluid was very burned. Right now it's still pink so I won't have to do it twice. I'll probably just change it ahead of time before it gets dark. Dropping the pan and cleaning it and changing the filter is a good idea. I hate those drain plugs on transmission pans. Always change your filters and check the magnet and pan for metal particles.
if you change the atf on a regular schedule and use a high quality atf there shouldnt be any problems with the fluid in the t/c. i dont think the flush machines can remove the sludge/debris from the bottom of the pan. i would prefer that they be removed instead of accumulating. also, i like drain plugs! however, its meant to drain the fluid before removing the pan. dropping a pan full of warm/hot atf is Trouble.
btw, burnt atf smells just awful. sort of that sick to my stomach feeling. but i bet you know that. [img]smile.gif[/img]
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Mogobs30th: I would lie to add something, DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE PAN BOLTS, trust me. [img]graemlins/dunce.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>the transmission case is aluminum. working w/o a torque wrench is just asking for trouble. <hr></blockquote>
If you have no access to a torque wrench, and I say this as a LAST RESORT, what you want to do is hand-tighten the bolts until the washer is touching the pan and is no longer spinning with the turn of the bolt. Grab your socket and turn the bolts 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Drive to make sure it is not leaking. Drive for about 1 week to let the pan, bolts, and gasket flex. Go back and retighten the bolts. TURN THE BOLTS NO MORE THAN 1/4 TURN!!! After that it should be OK.
Remember that this is a LAST RESORT to doing this if no torque wrench is availiable to you!!!
1995 Pontiac Firebird
2008 Chevrolet Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4
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