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I am thinking about making a legitimate spacer for the poly transmission mount to raise the transmission back where it should be. I have been using washers and when I changed my transmission, they were all warped and bent.
This would be a large plate that goes on top of the tranny mount between the mount and the tranny itself. Longer bolts would be included. It would be aluminum.
If enough people are interested I will get price together and check back.
1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
I don't get it... Does a poly mount drop the trans that much??
I still have the stock mount, but I'm sure somewhere along the line I'll be replacing it.
I would be interested in this as well. Hit me up with a price when you get them done. I wonder if this lowered transmission is what killed my rear main seal in about 5,000 miles after installing the poly mount...hmmmm.
FYI I have been down this route a few years back so for those interested here is what I found out.
First I took my stock mount, a poly mount, and a 1LE mount. Put the car up in the air. rear end on jack stands and front tires on ramps so the car was pretty level.
I measured the distance from the top of the crossmember to the botom of the transmission at a particular point, don't remember exactly where, with the stock mount and wrote that number down
Next I did the same thing with both the Poly and the 1LE mount.
Both of these mounts were almost exactly 1/2 inch shorter. Thus the back of the trans dropped 1/2 an inch.
I knew that when I used either mount I had increased vibration at certain RPMS which can be caused by the pinion angle and the transmission output angle being out of whack.
I then went to a fab shop up the road and asked if they had any 1/4 inch thick stock lying around and they did, they had a 10ft long piece of old stock that was 1/4"x3" so I had them cut me out 2 pieces 4" long and punched a 3/8" hole in the center. So now I have 2 pieces of steel that are 1/4"x3"x4" with a 3/8" hole in the center. I then just placed these spacers between the trans crossmember and the mount (1LE BTW sold the poly mount to someone).
This instantly helped relieve most of the vibration and the car actually felt like it accellerated better, I know it was smoother through the RPM and the drone I got around 60MPH was gone. Those spacers have been in there for proably 3 years now and no problems, the 1LE stud coming down the bottom of the mount was long enough to do this. You could do the same thing with the poly mount and just take the bolt it comes with to home depot and buy a longer bolt of the same thread. You will also want to open and elongate the hole in the crossmember about 1/2 inch forward. This will make everything line up nicely and nothing will be in a bind.
After 3 years I could see where a good set of spacers on the trans side might be a superior design because mine puts more strain on the lone bolt going through the crossmember but spacers on the trans side would spread that out a little better. I don't have any power adders and likely never will though so I'm not worried about it.
-Brad
98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
2000 V-Star Custom 1100
If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
:rock:
I just ignored the spacer and let 2nd gear crack the center console. However, with my new 5.0 pro there is no issue with 2nd gear hitting the center console anymore.
00\' firebird v6 5spd<br />201rwhp ---- 230 rwtq<br />\"Everyday I grow stronger...and further from you.\"<br />WARNING: Do not take any of my comments seriously unless they are technical in nature and then only at your own risk
I just ignored the spacer and let 2nd gear crack the center console. However, with my new 5.0 pro there is no issue with 2nd gear hitting the center console anymore.
the B&M billet plus was my very first mod so I never ran into any problems with the shifter hitting the console.
-Brad
98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
2000 V-Star Custom 1100
If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
:rock:
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