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  • Clutch won't fully disengage

    Hey guys/girls i was just wondering if theres any adjustments for our clutches. I have only owned the car about a month and it just feels like the clutch isn't fully disenaging my old s10 with 125,000 miles (new clutch it wasn't worn out) shifted easier then my camaro with only 40K. It goes into gear hard and ohio got hit with some below zero temps this past week and for a day i couldn't drive the car cause the clutch would just not disengage for me... I was grinding almost every gear so i parked it but as soon as the weather warmed up it started shiftin a bit better. Anyone ever had this type of problem. Only reason i'm askin is cause its to darn cold to go tinker with it this time of the year. Thanks for any help

  • #2
    Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

    There isn't any clutch linkage to adjust, it's fully hydraulic. Check the clutch fluid reservoir ASAP! Hopefully, you didn't run it dry.

    If you don't know, it's located near the brake's master cylinder, mounted on the firewall, right behind the driver's side hood strut. It's a small round & circular cylinder that has a twist off cap. Take the cap off and hope that you see DOT 3 fluid in there. If not, get some! If you ran it dry, you'll need to fill the reservior and re-bleed the clutch hydraulic line.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

      No i'm not that stupid lol, its filled just seems like its shiften hard but it might just be a new car and i'm not used to it just wondering if there were any possible adjusments with the hydrolic setup.. thanks tho

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      • #4
        Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

        Then I'd suggest that you re-bleed the clutch system. There is another current post on this procedure, and it goes step by step.
        If it doesn't feel right, then give it a try. It really doesn't cost anything, and only takes about 10 minutes.
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

          alright i'll give it a try thanks for the input

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          • #6
            Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

            mayb its your master/slave cylinder?

            Abbott long tubes,homemade true duals,slp ram air,whisper lid,eibach springs,kyb shocks,BMR subframe connectors, BMR LCA reloc brackets,BMR LCAs. T-top/manual converted

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            • #7
              Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

              sounds like the master is on it's way out
              WAWA-A-HOLIC

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              • #8
                Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

                with this being temp dependent I would guess you either have water or air in your system OR your master or slave are on the way out. Slave cylinder is a cheap part and not that tough to change. I'd recommend investing in a mity-vac it can make the job much easier. Bleeding the system manually is a PITA! You said you haven't had the car very long, perhaps it sat up too long and the seals in the master or slave are warped or something. Honestly for the cost I'd just get a new master cylinder, bleed it well and go from there.
                -Brad
                98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
                2000 V-Star Custom 1100
                If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
                :rock:

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                • #9
                  Re: Clutch won't fully disengage

                  Originally posted by black98V6
                  Slave cylinder is a cheap part and not that tough to change. .

                  the slave is inside the tranny. so you would have to drop the tranny. and they still a couple hundred

                  the master is in the engine bay- threw fire wall-clutch pedal and has a steel braided line that goes to your tranny. the master is eaiser to put in. but there is one 3 inch long u bolt that is a big pita.

                  you can get a new master with all the fuild in it and under pressure that way you don't have to bleed it
                  WAWA-A-HOLIC

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