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I would get the bolt out, don't run with less bolts than factory. Better off taking the time to do it right then really f*ck something up in the long run.
well well well, i heated up the bolt and drilled whats left of the bolt with a small reverse drill bit, was drilling pretty nice, so i grabbed a small screw extractor. hammered it in and it was lodged nicely in the center of the bolt, so i grabbed the grill and slow eased it backwards, and the damn thing just broke off. so now i have another screw extractor in the center of the bolt.
i think its officially out of the picture for me to fix it myself, im just gunna finish the project and drive my 7 flywheel bolt *** to the nearest shop that will fix it for me. good news is i learned a hell of alot about getting broken bolts out, mainly what NOT to do.
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
You might want to call them and ask the price to have the car towed with the trans still out and fix it and a price for them to pull the trans and replace it after fixing the bolt. Might be cheaper to just have it towed to them and back then letting them R&R the trans.
It's probably a good decision to make sure all 8 bolts are in, I'm pretty sure you'll be stress testing the new trans.
that is rather senseless to put it all they way back together just to pay to have it taken apart and put back together agian find a shop that is close that does goodwork and have it towed it will cost half what it would for them to pull it apart
76 Camaro Rally Sport-355/TH350- Soon to be LT1/TH350 with a little laughing gas to wake it up...;)
89 Ram D350 CTD/M5- 1 Ton Dually getting 27 MPG's
that is rather senseless to put it all they way back together just to pay to have it taken apart and put back together agian find a shop that is close that does goodwork and have it towed it will cost half what it would for them to pull it apart
idk i just figured the towing cost would be just as much if not more... plus i just want to have my car back but idk. ill make some calls....but what could a shop do? i have a feeling its gunna be really expensive...
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
you arent going to have a problem with the flywheel flying off. Its the shaking thats going to kill you. But you will be fine just driving slow as long as you keep the revs down.
they are probably going to have to pull the tranny, clutch, and flywheel and drill and tap the bolt you could do it yourself just break everything down, grind the bolt down as close as you can without hitting the flywheel then drill it out if you give me the size and thread pitch of the bolt i can give you the size you need to drill it to then just tap it get a new bolt from GM and you are good to go will be harder but much cheaper in the long run, we are here to help you man
76 Camaro Rally Sport-355/TH350- Soon to be LT1/TH350 with a little laughing gas to wake it up...;)
89 Ram D350 CTD/M5- 1 Ton Dually getting 27 MPG's
they are probably going to have to pull the tranny, clutch, and flywheel and drill and tap the bolt you could do it yourself just break everything down, grind the bolt down as close as you can without hitting the flywheel then drill it out if you give me the size and thread pitch of the bolt i can give you the size you need to drill it to then just tap it get a new bolt from GM and you are good to go will be harder but much cheaper in the long run, we are here to help you man
how can i drill through the bolt with an extractor in it?
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
grind youre extractor off, i hate destroying tools but its chaeper than a crank or anything else, if you do drill it make sure you are as straight as can be as well as when you tap it so that the bolt is doing its job when torqued
76 Camaro Rally Sport-355/TH350- Soon to be LT1/TH350 with a little laughing gas to wake it up...;)
89 Ram D350 CTD/M5- 1 Ton Dually getting 27 MPG's
I know this is an old thread, but just in case others try the route I took, here is what happened in my case.
I broke flywheel bolt while installing my newly machined flywheel, and after minimal unsuccessful efforts to remove it, I decided to bolt up the other 7 with loc-tite and hope for the best. The car ran perfectly, no vibrations whatsoever. I would like to add that the entire time I was driving the car since then, I was nervous that it would fail at any time. Basically I'm a lazy stupid idiot. :slap:
So after about 800 miles I heard an alarming rattling noise coming from my bell housing. I wasn't completely sure what the problem was because I had just rebuilt my T5 along with the other work, but obviously I suspected the flywheel. So I pulled the tranny, pressure plate and clutch, and I was terrified to see that one bolt had almost completely backed out, and the other 6 were barely hand tight!
It's don't even like to think about what could have happened to me, but I know that I'm lucky to have my legs and I will not take the lazy route again.
BTW I ordered a new set of bolts from the local dealership, and after about 3 hours with an ez-out type extractor I was able to remove the broken bolt. :banana::rock: And now I will have a beer!
Well since this thread has been brought up, I guess I'll throw my .02 in. NEVER reuse factory flywheel bolts. If you remove the flywheel, reinstall it with NEW bolts. Reused flywheel bolts, especially in high perf. applications, can easily break after being installed. I've seen it happen! I'm sure the last thing any of you want is a 30lb sawblade spinning at 6000rpm through your floorboard. New bolts aren't that expensive and are easy to find. It's cheap insurance.
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
i ended up drilling out the hole with a diamond bit as best as i could, then doing a ****ty rethreading job, and with some force got the bolt to go in and torque down. put over 1000 miles on it so far and no problems
1999 v6 Camaro M5 Automatic to Manual converted Pacesetter Headers, 2.5" Custom True Duals with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Bullet Muffers,
!cat, Intake, 3.42's with LSD, MSD Wires, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hurst Short Shifter, Tuned PCM
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