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Also, a gear install is not something you want to do yourself; the gears have to be set to within a thousandth of an inch, or they'll fail prematurely, causing thousands of dollars worth of damage
how many ****ing times are you going to use those exact words out of the book at your feet?
Nope not positive yet, just getting a head start just in case and for future reference. Going to check it out more tomorrow. Whats confusing me is its during deceleration. I thought it was heard during acceleration. Thats why i need to look into it more tomorrow, thanks guys.
well...um...i planned on replacing all my differential bearings myself here in a little bit (already ordered them) within a thousandth of an inch? thats pretty intense...
I had intermittant howling when rolling off throttle or decelerating. Upon pulling the axles, 2-3 of the cylinders were out of the races and in the axle shaft.
How many miles on your car? I would get a def. answer before replacing parts, esp. parts you don't need.
New wheel bearings aren't exactly going to break the bank...also, all cars loose them eventually.
how many ****ing times are you going to use those exact words out of the book at your feet?
It's called adding something to a technical discussion; I know it's something totally new and you're completely unfamiliar with, but you should try it sometime. I will continue to use those words until they stop being true or people stop trying to do gear installs in their driveway.
how many ****ing times are you going to use those exact words out of the book at your feet?
although his words of advise are correct, i dont see why he makes people ot believe it is so difficult
you can buy a $40 tool to use to check the backlash of everything and to shim everything correctly so your gears dont fail
it is not an easy thing to do, but completely doable in ones own driveway
that being said, if you have NO mechanical experience, than you should pay someone to do it.. meaning if you cant do something simple like changing the plugs, or changing the clutch, then dont try this yourself
thousands of dollars in damage? unless you lose a wheel i cant imagine that.
To have it rebuilt and set up properly, it can easily run into the thousands.
a whole rear can be found for $300.
That's also a "whole rear" that's filled with old parts and bearings, and most likely is not in the best of condition, esp. if it came off an LS1 car. When V8 owners tweak their rears at the drag strip (not to the point of breaking, but enough to start howling) they love flipping them on mod-hungry V6 drivers. So, you can either play automotive-roulette with buying a used rear, or do it right and have it rebuilt; one could potentially cost you much more time and money than the other.
also a 9" is a much better upgrade vs the 12-bolt. 12 bolts cost too much for what they are too.
12" rear ends are stronger than 9" stock for stock
the only reason the 9" is so popular is because there is SO MUCH after market parts for them, and they can be BUILT up to be stronger than a 12 bolt ever can
i see a lot of people thinking they can just stick a 9" into their car and have it be bullet proof.. thats not the case at all.
12" rear ends are stronger than 9" stock for stock
the only reason the 9" is so popular is because there is SO MUCH after market parts for them, and they can be BUILT up to be stronger than a 12 bolt ever can
i see a lot of people thinking they can just stick a 9" into their car and have it be bullet proof.. thats not the case at all.
its mostly my dislike of c-clips that id reccomend a 9".
but a 12-bolt with a c-clip eliminator is a good choice too.
<a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2265676\" target=\"_blank\">95 bright red camaro 3.4l</a>
I love these 10 bolt threads.. Well lets see I broke 3 rear ends in my V6 and 1 already in my WS6..
The 1st was at the track and when I hit second gear and it the 125shot It grabed and cracked the rear end housing above the pinion!! That was me on the stock motor with a 125 shot and 3.23's..
The second was with 3.73's and a new rear end off another car.. This time was with the built motor and the 125 shot and on the street.. I launched from a light and hit second and sprayed thru 4th gear.. After I let off my rear end felt like it was skipping.. I broke some teeth on the ring gear..
The 3rd time was a built 10 bolt with a Eaton posi, 4.10's, moser axles, and a T/A cover.. It happened on the track all motor run when I launched with DR's and cut a good 60' the Diff Bearings busted .. I was not able to drive on this rear end afterwards and had to get it towed back to my friends house.. spent 1200.00 on that build up
The WS6 at the track I broke a Axle Bearing.. It is under warrenty so I had the whole rear end replaced for 100.00
The reason I didnt get a 12bolt was because you loose more power with a bigger rear end.. I was only making 230rwhp and 230rwtq on motor.. I needed as much power as possible..
^ Damm , I'm going to have to take it easy with my 125 shot, I just had my 3.73s and T/A cover with stud kit installed about less than a year ago. I know I should hook pretty well with my MT drag radials 275/40/17's.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
^the bearings themselves are reletively cheap, and can be found at any autoparts store. I understand the notion of trying to save time/energy, but the more pressing matter is the failing bearings; waiting around for some gears and a posi to pop up for sale, you could lose the bearing and the axle. Either way, gears and posi's can be found at summit, jegs, eBay, etc
Okay, so what you're saying is that if my rear axle has been humming for like, oh I don't know, a few years...there might be a problem?
In all seriousness, there's a noise coming from the rear end that's been there for years, but nobody ever has any answers as to what it is. Some have said it's the drum brakes (brakes are fine, and truthfully the noise deminishes when they're turned), others have said possibly wheel bearings, but they "weren't that bad", and so on and so forth.
I wouldn't call it a hum by itself, so much as a hum/grinding noise. Let's put it this way, it's loud enough during acceleration and deceleration that you have to turn up the radio or talk loudly to hear.
I can get the whole rear axle assembly with the drum brakes (what I have) for $50 in a junkyard w/warranty, or a 98 rear end with disc brakes for $100 with warranty.
Okay, so what you're saying is that if my rear axle has been humming for like, oh I don't know, a few years...there might be a problem?
In all seriousness, there's a noise coming from the rear end that's been there for years, but nobody ever has any answers as to what it is. Some have said it's the drum brakes (brakes are fine, and truthfully the noise deminishes when they're turned), others have said possibly wheel bearings, but they "weren't that bad", and so on and so forth.
I wouldn't call it a hum by itself, so much as a hum/grinding noise. Let's put it this way, it's loud enough during acceleration and deceleration that you have to turn up the radio or talk loudly to hear.
I can get the whole rear axle assembly with the drum brakes (what I have) for $50 in a junkyard w/warranty, or a 98 rear end with disc brakes for $100 with warranty.
What would you guys recommend?
That's kind of a no-brainer.. DEFINITELY the 98.. Only $50 extra, for more stopping power, and the zexel instead of the auburn.. unless you have open diff idk.
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