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I see that SLP Online has a set of 4.10's for $250, and the paddle kit for $175. The dealer estimated $700 for install labor. That seems awfully steep. I'll call around some, but I'm a little leery of taking it somewhere else, I don't want someone screwing up the install by not using the right tools to set backlash and all that. I've already had my PCM tuned by TSP so I can mail that back to them for a free adjustment for the speedo and such.
$700 seem awfully steep for a R&P installation. I would check with a local transmission shop, they should have the equipment & know how to do it right. The last time I had a R&P installed in the race car I took it to a local shop and they did it for like $250 (my parts). Now that I've taken the time to learn how, and successfully rebuilt the diff in the Camaro I will be doing my own from here on in.
whatever is easier, so the hypertech tuner is what you would suggest? can the hypertech tuner tune for everything? and how much does it cost? ty earl for you're help.
I personally think the Hypertech is waaaayyyy overpriced for what it does; I actually bought one for my car not long after I got it, and wasn't impressed at all. It does allow you to tune for tire size, different gears, change shift points, raise speed and rev limiters, so for those things it is ok. But it did absolutely NOTHING for performance - and I had the car strapped to a dyno when I installed it. Unless you can find a really good deal I wouldn't waste the $$$ on one.
I don't know for a fact, but I would think the only product out there that would really make a performamce difference would be the HP Tuners software, and as I noted before you really need to know something about tuning before you get into that. At least that's the impression I get - maybe someone who has used it can comment on how difficult it is to use.
Smoke, thanks for the listing of posts. Post #'s 3 and 4 on the list were the ones I was most interested in. Like I stated before, my main concerns are mpg and noise.
EarlR, I bet you're right, the road noise is probably much more of a factor than an extra 400 RPMs of engine noise. So engine noise is probably a non-issue. Also, 80mph does suck up some gas. Keeping it at 75 does help.... plus then I don't have to worry about getting pulled over.
From what I have been reading on various sites, mpg doesn't drop that much. Only highway really seems to drop, and city tends to increase, so they can kind of cancel each other out.
I see that SLP Online has a set of 4.10's for $250, and the paddle kit for $175. The dealer estimated $700 for install labor. That seems awfully steep. I'll call around some, but I'm a little leery of taking it somewhere else, I don't want someone screwing up the install by not using the right tools to set backlash and all that. I've already had my PCM tuned by TSP so I can mail that back to them for a free adjustment for the speedo and such.
i can see you're concern for mpg but gas prices have went down, (even though mpg doesnt bother me too much i just want a fast car lol) but im guessing you dont like loud engine noise?
A little louder exhaust note is fine, but I wouldn't want a droning engine for 5 1/2 hours when I make these monthly road trips that I do. But when I think about it, the road and wind noise is far more noticeable than the engine, and I doubt 400 extra RPM isn't going to make a lot of difference. I think the car lacks enough sound-deadening material, especially around the rear wheel wells.
I think gas pricies being where they are is temporary, they will be back to $4+ within a couple of years at the most. But really, a 2 mpg or so drop doesn't worry me for the added performance the gears give. I just wouldn't want to have them installed and suddenly I'm getting 18mpg on the highway when I normally get 26-28mpg.
hypertech is garbage if you are going to be doing anything like a cam later on...hypertech does basic stuff, your better off just getting a mail order tune then that.
Hp tuners is a necessity for modding...I just picked it up...yea you have to read about how to use it.
rob bell...here is a website that will calculate everything you need to know about gears, shift points, rpms, etc... http://www.f-body.org/gears/
You know you can go inbetween 3.73's and 4.10's with a 3.90 gear...kinda the best of both worlds...do whats right for you...I believe I am the only one on this site...and possible the only v6 f-body with 3.90 gears (they do make them for us now)
I wish I would of went with 3.90's my last install. My next gears are going to be 4.10's. Hptuners is def. worth it.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I wish I would of went with 3.90's my last install. My next gears are going to be 4.10's. Hptuners is def. worth it.
You're going turbo though right? I thought 4.10's or even anything above 3.42's wouldn't provide a whole lot of load on the engine to spool the turbo enough.
I was going to go with a turbo and use my 3.73's with some nitrous but was running out of funds to do it all at once. Now I have to stick with the nitrous and slowly build up the turbo system. I'll see once it is all together and how long it will take me to get all the parts. Also went back to a 125 wet shot from the dry shot. A Garrett GT35R will spool pretty fast.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I installed 3.73 because if you go to 4.10 your gas will go south. With the 3.73 gear you still get good gas but great take off. Also you can get a torque converter with gears and you can hang with any V8.
Now about computer tuning YES you will need tuning because your shifting points will be off and if you do not program gears you will red line all the time.
Camaro V6 1999- K&N Intake System
- 3.73 gear
- Jet DST Programer
- Spark plugs (Split Fire) and wires (Taylor 8.5)
- Headers (Pace) and Y- Pipe
- Hi Flow Cat
:stp:
so, resurrection here, but while a car without a tune would suck cause of the speed computer or whatever, the rpms depend on the engine not the wheels? So it should still shift at the same point right? just a lower speed because of the gear ratio. Oh, and I'm about to slap some 4.10s in my car with a posi, got a killer deal :D
I had this long drawn out reply that I almost posted.. I then deleted it realizing that I honestly do not know. But one question. You're talking about a manual car right? Because if you're talking about an automatic. Do not install gears without a tune.
so, resurrection here, but while a car without a tune would suck cause of the speed computer or whatever, the rpms depend on the engine not the wheels? So it should still shift at the same point right? just a lower speed because of the gear ratio. Oh, and I'm about to slap some 4.10s in my car with a posi, got a killer deal :D
your engine makes the same hp at any given rpm regardless of anything
so lets say you usually shift at 5500 rpm with 3.42 gears, lets say at that rpm your car is at its nominal shift point (meaning you will get the best performance shifting at that rpm)
when you install new gears, your car is still going to be making the same hp at 5500rpm, your powerband hasnt changed, so that is still the nominal shift point
basically, changing your rear end gears will keep your shift points, but they will just come a lot quicker
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