Well I replaced my stock clutch in december with a SPEC stage 2, and I was in kind of a hurry so I might have over looked a few things. Back in january I started hearing a squeeking noise at idle and when I would push the clutch pedal in the noise would go away. It still makes the noise, not all the time though. Well about a week ago it started making a ticking noise when I take off in first gear, it just goes tick tick then it goes away. So I'm going to rip my tranny out and try to see what's wrong. Should I get my flywheel resurfaced again??? Also I reused the stock flywheel bolts and the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. Should I go and get new bolts???
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Re: clutch issues
its most likely the throwout bearing, did you replace it when you changed the clutch?
yes, you should get new flywheel bolts, they are made to stretch when torquing them down, they are not reusable.. im surprised you didnt snap any when putting them back in.
i used the same bolts for the PP to the flywheel with no problem
if you arent changing the clutch plate, there is no need to resurface the flywheel.
if i were you, i would recommend getting a new slave/to bearing kit
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Re: clutch issues
The spec stage 2 kit came with a pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate. What is a slave to bearing kit???1997 Chevrolet Camaro
L26, Pacesetter headers, SLP cai, Centerforce DF clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, UMI short stick, 1le driveline, J&M 35mm front swaybar, UMI lca's/phb/sfc's, KYB AGX shocks, Hotchkis stb.
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Re: clutch issues
i have reused my flywheel bolts for i dont know how many times, and for i dont know how long
just have to put a little locktite on them
Abbott long tubes,homemade true duals,slp ram air,whisper lid,eibach springs,kyb shocks,BMR subframe connectors, BMR LCA reloc brackets,BMR LCAs. T-top/manual converted
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by Meatyshells View Posti have reused my flywheel bolts for i dont know how many times, and for i dont know how long
just have to put a little locktite on them
i snapped two in my crank, luckily there was just a tiny bit sticking out and i was able to use a bolt-out kit to remove them
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by cam98aro View Postyou better hope they dont back out on you, the bolts are a stretch type, when you torque them, they stretch out. if you re-use them, they will become really weak
i snapped two in my crank, luckily there was just a tiny bit sticking out and i was able to use a bolt-out kit to remove them
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by cam98aro View Postyou better hope they dont back out on you, the bolts are a stretch type, when you torque them, they stretch out. if you re-use them, they will become really weak
i snapped two in my crank, luckily there was just a tiny bit sticking out and i was able to use a bolt-out kit to remove them
they looked like regular bolts to me *shrug*
havent had a problem with my grippy aftermarket clutch and launches at the track
Abbott long tubes,homemade true duals,slp ram air,whisper lid,eibach springs,kyb shocks,BMR subframe connectors, BMR LCA reloc brackets,BMR LCAs. T-top/manual converted
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by Mad Max View PostThose are some pretty stout bolts. I've used 300 FT LBS air impact guns to put on flywheel/flexplate bolts and never snapped them. Maybe your turkey wrench is off... Is it a clicker or does it have the pointer?
all i know is i had it set to however many ftlb it calls for, and when i tried to do the "additional 15*" or whatever it is, the bolt just got very loose and snapped
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Re: clutch issues
Probably a good idea to buy some ARP bolts next time. They are pretty heavy duty. If you are driving it now, I guess it doesn't matter.
I have 2 click type Snap On torque wrenches ($$$$). You have to have them recalibrated once in a while - if you use them in an industrial environment. They also say to never use one of these to take off any bolts/nuts. I guess it messes up the calibration. I am trying to figure why the bolts snapped. Usually they tear out the crank threads. Eh, you were lucky.
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by Mad Max View PostProbably a good idea to buy some ARP bolts next time. They are pretty heavy duty. If you are driving it now, I guess it doesn't matter.
I have 2 click type Snap On torque wrenches ($$$$). You have to have them recalibrated once in a while - if you use them in an industrial environment. They also say to never use one of these to take off any bolts/nuts. I guess it messes up the calibration. I am trying to figure why the bolts snapped. Usually they tear out the crank threads. Eh, you were lucky.
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by Mad Max View PostWhat were you using to tighten the crank bolts? A sledgehammer? :eek:
Originally posted by cam98aro View Posta torque wrench
Shiiit, when I did mine, I probably pulled it 15+ times and never had issues with those bolts, other then installing them and tightening the ones on the very top. Didnt even use loc-tite
After a while i just said fugg it and left the top one out.
I tightened the crapp out of those bolts too and nothing broke*Matt
Old people shouldnt use the internet.
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Re: clutch issues
Originally posted by StrtRacer98 View Post
Are you a gorilla?
Shiiit, when I did mine, I probably pulled it 15+ times and never had issues with those bolts, other then installing them and tightening the ones on the very top. Didnt even use loc-tite
After a while i just said fugg it and left the top one out.
I tightened the crapp out of those bolts too and nothing broke
why didnt you just spin the engine and put it so the bolt would be on the bottom?
remind me to never let you work on my car.
and i have read many threads about people snapping flywheel bolts
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