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Install is super easy. Remove cap from schrader valve on fuel rail, adapt from the -4an that it is to the 1/8" NPT that the gauge has and attach the sender.
wow, I was looking at the mechanical ones, and then read an old post that said to get the elect one. I am happy i read into it before i wasted my money.
wow, I was looking at the mechanical ones, and then read an old post that said to get the elect one. I am happy i read into it before i wasted my money.
A mechanical gauge, if mounted inside the car is really dangerous. That's a fuel line running straight into the cabin. With the pillar that I bought used, it had a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in it.. And I was wondering.. wtf. Also if any track officials find out you're doing that they won't be happy.
A mechanical gauge, if mounted inside the car is really dangerous. That's a fuel line running straight into the cabin. With the pillar that I bought used, it had a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in it.. And I was wondering.. wtf. Also if any track officials find out you're doing that they won't be happy.
Yea i read that on autometers site too. They said that the mechanical ones could not be mounted inside the cabin without an isolator. And that the NHRA would not deem it track worthy. Plus it would be extra difficult considering that the gauge and isolator have to mounted at the same elevation. Plus an isolator is like $100.
A mechanical gauge, if mounted inside the car is really dangerous. That's a fuel line running straight into the cabin. With the pillar that I bought used, it had a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in it.. And I was wondering.. wtf. Also if any track officials find out you're doing that they won't be happy.
Autometer (and by now I'm sure others do too) make a fuel pressure isolator for this. It mounts in the engine compartment and allows you to run a mechanical gauge inside the car, with out fuel on the cabin side.
yea but like i said before, it will not read accuratley unless it is mounted at the same elevation as the gauge, which could prove to be difficult with our style vehicles.
yea but like i said before, it will not read accuratley unless it is mounted at the same elevation as the gauge, which could prove to be difficult with our style vehicles.
While it may read a few PSIG lower if mounted higher then the isolator, the reason for having a gauge inside the car it so you know if the pressure starts to drop. That it will still show. The electric gauge is not all that reliable as there are too many things to go wrong with it compared to the mechanical.
I have had my Autometer Fuel pressure gauge going on 10 years now(well worth the $240 I paid in 00') and I have never had any problems with it same for my Vac/Boost gauge which is for sale(hint,hint)LOL.(knock on wood). It saved me a couple of times when the fuel pump hose came off partly and dropped my PSI down to 30 PSI, so it works fine for me. Also when I used a FMU it read correctly to the FMU pressure compared to fuel pressure. The Walbro 255 high flow pumps will tend to show more about 48-50 PSI at idle also.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Corrected, I guess my past always catches up with me. LOL
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
Just saw it on Facebook, looks awesome. The front and rear nice looking....
1 week ago
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