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the life of silverstar ultras arent very long, but thats what i have now. ive had cool blues in the past. if i did it again i would just get regular bulbs though. but its however much money u wanna spend.
I know you don't want to hear it but HIDs have blown any other bulb I have had away, silverstars or ebay ones. Plus there not to hard to install.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I've had Silverstar Ultras in my high beams in the Camaro for about 15 months I believe and I've had them in my low beams in the Buick for about 10 months now without any problems. Even so, the amount of additional light output is not really worth the price tag imo. I say if you want better lighting, get a nice set of fog or driving lights to help out your headlights.
thanks guys.. the only reason i ask is because one of my lights went out lastnight while driving, and i wasnt sure if i should stick with the cool blues (only need one) or just get something entirely different.
i may go the HID route, but thats in the future, i would love to drive around and blind everyone like they do me, haha
There is a lot of urban legend and downright disinformation out there about headlight bulbs.
Blue lights are cool to look at but really are more marketing and color than they are a way to truly increase safety at night by increasing light output.
For the Tom Henry RS project (http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/index.htm) we installed Harrison-Toshiba, Halogen Infrared Reflective (HIR) bulbs (PNs 9011, 9012) from Daniel Stern Lighting.
They've been on the car for several years and have worked quite well.
If you do go the HID route, I highly recommend you get projector headlights if you don't have them already. HIDs are long-lasting, much higher output, and more customizable than halogens, and are now very affordable as well. It's an easy swap, but by all means, do you own research.
In a nutshell High Intensity Discharge lights (HIDs),
use less power for higher luminous output (as compaired to traditional halogen headlights)
are available in a much broader spectrum of colors
require a small ballast in addition to the bulb which are usually waterproof and can be mounted anywhere near the headlight
experience the most wear on startup and take up to 30 seconds to reach full output. For this reason they are not suited for high beam use
4300K is the peak luminous output in our visible spectrum
You probably noticed that your low beam bulbs have a thick cap on the end, this is to prevent light from emitting out of the end of the bulb and scattering to oncoming drivers. The light is only allowed to exit the sides and rear of the bulb which hits the optics of the headlight and is emitted in a controlled manner out the front. HIDs are not capped, which is the main reason they are blinding to oncoming drivers. This is also due in part to the the shear light output which disallows the halogen housing to effectively control the light.
Projectors are basically convex mirrors with the HID bulb in the center. The convex mirror throws the light forward. In front of this is a cutoff shield on the bottom of the housing which cleanly cuts off the light from the mirror in half. The remaining light is projected into a double concave lens which flips the image and magnifies it onto the road. Because of the design, a bulb "cap" is not necessary.
HID kits consist of a wiring harness, which plugs into your cars existing wiring harness and powers the ballast, which then feeds the bulb the power. These ballasts help with the ignition process and allow the bulbs to warm up as fast as possible. If you didn't already know, HID bulbs do not have filaments at all, they actually burn gas like a fluorescent. Street lamps have been HID for a while, most of these being sodium vapor lights.
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