multi - alternator in an f-body??

[96firebird311]

I was wondering if anybody has seen an f-body was more then 1 alt. under the hood. My system is starting to tax my high-output alt. so I'm looking at a dual alt. setup. Is this possible in a 96 firebird? If possible, where could I find a kit? Thanx! [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Justin96Bird]

what kind of stereo do you have? I was having trouble which i though was just a weak alternator, when actually it was a crappy battery, try putting an Optima Yellow top dry cell battery in there, it solved all my stereo problems. (you may already have this, but i don't know you didn't say much about your system)

[96firebird311]

I already have 1 yellow top and plan on buying a second. I also already have a H/O alt. My stereo is pulling upwords of 250amps. I know a second alt. would be of use. Can anybody answer this question?

[Birdie2000]

Just out of curiosity, what kinda stereo do you have in there that is taking up so much power?

[ToddBoe]

Yeah i'm curiouse as to what you have in there too that it pulls so much ampreage them are 2 mighty big amps if your pullin over 250 outta your system did you ever consider updateing to newer amps mabey that put out the same power but less ampreage draw my 1200D american bass amp puts out 1600 watts at 1 ohm mono when we tested it and it only has a 80 amp draw just a suggestion i guess as for another alternator i have no idea mabey if you lost the a/c unit you could install it there

[Backfire]

Are you sure about those current draw numbers? 1600 watts at 80amps? If you are, then you may have found a way to create energy? If you are drawing 80amps from a 15V DC source (I am overshooting this to illustrate a point, at 12V or 13.8V the power consumption would be even less), thats 15V*80amps=1200Watts. Now, since the speaker signal is an sine wave, and not flat, I may be simlifying things, but how can you be putting out 1600W and only taking in 1200W?? What am I missing? Certain amps are more efficient than others, but you will always consume more power than you put out.

[ May 08, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p>

[ToddBoe]

Well To answer you there Backfire i'm not totally sure either i think it was the stereo shop blowing a bunch a smoke at me i just nodded my head and said ok sure but i hooked it up to me own meter and it isn't eveng doing a acutal one ohm load it's at 1.5 and is pushing 1200 watts to it Which i'm not sure why it's at 1.5 my subs are DVC 4ohm and i wired it up to run 1 but it come up with 1.5 on the meter so i'd probly throw the [img]graemlins/bs.gif[/img] on the stereo shop that sold me the amp But oh well what can ya do right?

[96firebird311]

I have two amps that are rated at 130 max. for my subs and an amp for my comps. rated at 60amps. That's 320 max. I know the system won't pull that for daily driving, add that to the fact I'm thinking of upgrading and a dual alt. setup is the only way to go. :D Now then, anybody know if it's possible to have a dual alt. setup in a 96 f-body without removing any parts of the car (ie. air condenser, or anything)?? Thanks!

[Backfire]

ToddBoe - When you see a resistance for a speaker, it is a nominal value. The actual resistance is constanly changing with the frequency of the in signal. I am not sure on the needed tests to get an actual value, but some magazines will test speakers and provide more accurate measurements than the manufacturer.

96firebird311 - Your amps should also have come with an average current draw number as well. That will give you a more accurate value for what you system is drawing. I had an old Pioneer GM-X802 100x2 that was rated at 40A at continous power output(basically a max number), but only 8A was used when calculating system current draw. If you hook up your amps to a sine wave generator set right at clipping for the amp, you might see that sort of draw, but during music playback I don't think it will be anywhere close.

[ May 08, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]

[ May 08, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p>

[96firebird311]

I realize that it will pull no where near the max. current draw. Max is up over 300amps and I'm thinking of upgrading. It's going to be too much for any 1 alternator that I could fit in my car. Hence, a dual alt. setup. Does anyone know the answer to this question?

[ToddBoe]

OK just what kinda amps are you running on your subs that they pull 130amps? i mean that is a bit extreme i would consider doing a new digiatal amp then trying to do another alternator it would be alot cheaper in the long run. I mean i ran a comp car a couple years ago that had 180amp max draw it was the rockford 1100A2 Power 100 amp draw? and a 800a4 punch 80 amps draw

[MrCoffee]

I'd like to know if dual alternators will work in the car as well. for future references of course. I've had to replace an alernator and battery. alts arent too fun to replace, escpecially on a 91 blazer. i cant really imagine how, physically 2 alts would setup in the car.

[Birdie2000]

Check this out: http://www.caraudiomag.com/archives/..._tests01.shtml

[96firebird311]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Birdie2000:
Check this out: http://www.caraudiomag.com/archives/..._tests01.shtml<hr></blockquote>

This is the closest to an answer I've been able to get! Although that's no f-body, it did give me some valuable links to further my search! Thanks Birdie!!

[Birdie2000]

No problem. It says in the final caption that Dave's DC Electric can make kits for almost any late model car. I'd suggest you give him a call, I'm sure he could hook you up.