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I wired my amp and hooked everything up. I attached the 12 volt power lead from the accesory connector (little red round box type thing) through the fuse, and then through the firewall and back to my amp. Why wouldnt I have power to my amp. I know this because for one it doesnt work and two the amp light will not come on. I changed the fuse on the amp and that didnt help anything... Any ideas?
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1993 3.4 <br />Borla rear section<br />3 inch Catco High Flow Cat<br />2.75 inch I pipe (Picked one up from an LT-1 guy for a whole $10)<br />K&N Fipk <br />180° T-stat<br />Jet Stage II<br />10 Spoke Z28 Wheels<br />NGK\'s, Taylor Spiros<br />Mobil 1 synthetic<p>Email Viper2@chesnet.net for 4th gen replacement parts. -
Did you attach the turn-on lead to the amp as well? Aside from the +12V power wire, the amp uses a +12V signal to turn it on.
If this is connected, make sure the amp is actually seeing +12V with a voltmeter. I had a situation when I first installed a system where system showed +12V fine when the system was off, but when I tried to turn it on, the voltage would drop to +6V and nothing would turn on. I had a poorly connected ground that was causing problems. Moved the ground and all was well.
As a side note to anyone having issues with wiring, whether stereo or throughout the car, a multimeter is a great investment. Instead of just looking at the wiring and saying "well, it looks ok?!?!?", you can actually verify everything is setup properly and diagnose troubling sensors.
[ May 18, 2002: Message edited by: Backfire ]</p> -
Make sure you have at least 3 wires connected to your amp.
12V power
Ground
Remote turn-on lead
Make sure you're getting a good ground point, remove any paint so that you're contacting with bare metal!<b><i>1999 Pewter Trans Am M6 - Stock for now...<br />296.6 RWHP and 310.6 RWTQ</i></b> -<i>SOLD</i><p><i>\"There are vast amounts of money to be made in the sevice of the Lord!\"</i><br /><i>1994 Green Camaro M5 - <b>SOLD</b></i><p><br /><b><i>Associate of VENOM-VI</i></b>Comment
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Check the fuse closest to the battery. It sounds like you didn't run a remote wire from your deck, to the amp. Usually this is a Blue wire with a White stripe on it. Consult your Stereo Installation, or amp installation instructions. Also check to make sure your RCA's are hooked up. If you are wiring up the amp to a deck without any RCA preouts, you need to get an inline converter. you can find those at any car stereo installation place... Goodluck
Sam
3.4L Racing Green Bird
Sony mdx-610 52x4W deck
Pioneer 12 disc Changer
600 Watt Amp
1 Sony Competition 600w 10" sub, in a ported box - neon accents
Phx. Gold and Fosgate Wiring
Coming soon -> Flowmaster 80series muffler, CAI, 16" Chrome rims (When I can find a good deal -> anyone selling these for a good price?????), Thats about it for now { [img]redface.gif[/img] )~
Questions: Whyildkatt@hotmail.com94 bird 3.4L Racing Green<br />80 series flowmaster<br />3 1/2\" Chrome tips<br />Deck, amp, sub, and upgraded speakers<br />Delphi XM<br />5 spoke 99 Trans Am Rims<br />Clear Corners<br />Sylvania Silverstar LightsComment
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Yes, I have the turn on lead hooked up. Here is a list of all my connections:
1. 12 v power lead to battery and amp
2. rca cables from amp to head unit
3. remote turn on from amp to head unit
4. amp ground to metal screw in trunk (I am going to try to sand this down and see if this helps)
5. speaker wire from amp channel 3 + and channel 4 - to sub.
Do I need to put my head unit on a special setting or change anything on it to access my subs? By this I mean turning on my head unit and searching on it until I find my sub info on it.
Also: From my amp wiring kit, I have 2 butt connectors left over. Do I have to use these and could these be the reason my amp is not turning on? I didnt see a need for them so I didnt wire them in.
[ May 18, 2002: Message edited by: Original 4th Gen V6 ]</p>1993 3.4 <br />Borla rear section<br />3 inch Catco High Flow Cat<br />2.75 inch I pipe (Picked one up from an LT-1 guy for a whole $10)<br />K&N Fipk <br />180° T-stat<br />Jet Stage II<br />10 Spoke Z28 Wheels<br />NGK\'s, Taylor Spiros<br />Mobil 1 synthetic<p>Email Viper2@chesnet.net for 4th gen replacement parts.Comment
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Ok thanks to you guys that posted stuff for this topic, I figured out that on my wiring harness there are 2 different remote outputs and I had it wired into the wrong one. All is well and working now so thanks again.1993 3.4 <br />Borla rear section<br />3 inch Catco High Flow Cat<br />2.75 inch I pipe (Picked one up from an LT-1 guy for a whole $10)<br />K&N Fipk <br />180° T-stat<br />Jet Stage II<br />10 Spoke Z28 Wheels<br />NGK\'s, Taylor Spiros<br />Mobil 1 synthetic<p>Email Viper2@chesnet.net for 4th gen replacement parts.Comment
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