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yea i know, marketing ploy, i fell for it
it is advertised as 900 watts but is actually only 150 rms what ****ing bull **** -ers i wish i had known better ahead of time.... oh well
-Hawk<br /><br />===================================<br />Black 2001 Pontiac Firebird<br />Automatic Transmission Street Bird<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453</a> <br /><br />\"Live like you were Dying\"
nobody will agree with me, but I ahve a dual 10" Milhouse box, with 2 Sony P5's and a Sony 800W P5 amp, and it sounds awesome, especially condiering how cheap it all was, the only thing I really need is some dynomat or something to stop the rattleing
if your amp is putting out 150w RMS, try the pioneer TS-W34C... 500w max and 150 nominal. or if you wanted 10" you could check out that one's little brother, the TS-W29C. 450w max and 120w nominal.
i got two TS-W34C's brand new on ebay for only $75
Originally posted by Ryan W.: I really need is some dynomat or something to stop the rattling
Good luck in getting rid of the rattle, before I put dynamat in my car it would sound like arss due to the rattling.
One day I stripped the whole car and I dynamated the whole car and used about 4 layers on the floor and about 2 everywhere else.
My hatch has 2 different Brands of sound deadening material, and it still rattles just slightly. My only other option is to spray expanding foam in the hatch to give it some weight so it will stop the rattles.
I also noticed that the actual wing was rattling but that was quickly fixed when I removed it and put a fine bead of clear silicone sealant under it and tightened up the nuts real tight.
not that it's nuthin from nuthin, but I think 150 watts is underpowered for a sub.
most sub setups are power hungry, and bear in mind that you wil aclimate to the volume level of your sub rather quickly.
smallest I would go on a sub amp ( if I wanted it to hit hard and clean ) is 300 watts.
I'm currently running 600 to 2 12's. Everyone's taste is different of course, but if you listen to more rock than rap and still want deep tight hitting bass, you have to go to about twice the amplifier outputyou would need to make a rap/pop song hit the same.
also be weary of how they rate the max output. a lot of amp manufacturers rate the max output at 2 ohms, and at a 14.4v input, which is the most ideal circumstances. It's rare that you will see those conditions often in your car, so the performance of your amplifier may vary based on the brand.
ok i just did some research and i figured out that my fosgate powering just one sub will put out 300 watts rms at 4 ohms, so i bought this sub which seems to be an exact fit, good price, hopefully its not a ****ty sub... i believe kicker is a good company but then again this could be a fake.. whatever a sub is a sub. ive got my stealth box coming too! yay.
-Hawk<br /><br />===================================<br />Black 2001 Pontiac Firebird<br />Automatic Transmission Street Bird<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453</a> <br /><br />\"Live like you were Dying\"
glad to hear your stealth box is coming... so does that mean my rear well box is coming soon? :D have you shipped it out yet? let me know. thanks, man.
Well since it is a Dual Voice Coil, 4 ohm sub, you would have to wire the sub to 8 ohms and you'll only get 150 watts. That same sub with a DVC 2ohm would have been what u really wanted to maximize output.
Eclipse 8443, CDT ES-620s in doors (Clarion APX401.2), IEK, CDT 6X in rear(HU), Image Dynamics ID10v.3D.4 in stealthbox(Clarion DPX1001.2)<br /><a href=\"http://www.sounddomain.com/id/larryfirebird33\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.sounddomain.com/id/larryfirebird33</a><br />borla cat-back, FTRA, whisper lid
You just bought an enclosure with 0.65-0.70 ft^3 of airspace and you're about to mount a driver that requires 0.8 - 3.0 ft^3 of airspace. Way to go.
You bought a sub with a sensitivity rating of only 85.6dB? That was probably the last thing you should have done considering your first goof. I'm hard pressed to think of ANY sub with a lousier efficiency rating than that.
Your probably going to run your class A/B amp at 2 Ohms to try to make up for it. Start saving your cash now for a new amp. You'll be needing it in 12 months after you burn this one up.
Well at least you saved some money I guess. And your sub has flames on it, so I guess you've got that going for you. :rolleyes:
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
Originally posted by DarkEcho: hahaha check ur email.
oh and guys what does the ohms effect???
It's fine to be asking basic questions like this, but you really shouldn't have started making purchases before you understood what you were getting into. You've already started mismatching components.
An Ohm is a measure of resistance. A speaker is essentially a resistor. Less resistance allows more current to flow. Increasing resistance creates more heat. You're going to learn all about it when you wire up your DVC sub. I suggest you read the FAQ at the top of this page.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
yes I know i am a tard when it comes to stereo systems.. i just took my amps numbers and matched them up with the subs and chose one that matched, i guess i ****ed up but oh well. making mistakes i how you learn most the time. big deal if it doesnt work out ill sell this sub to someone and since its "kicker" im sure a buddy of mine will go nuts and pay me more than i bought it for hahaha. i wasnt aware that airspace was a huge factor in a sub. i know that it is needed but i didnt know that it will kill an amp.. ohwell
-Hawk<br /><br />===================================<br />Black 2001 Pontiac Firebird<br />Automatic Transmission Street Bird<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/550453</a> <br /><br />\"Live like you were Dying\"
you're right. that's how you learn. If it's your first system, then you'll still be thrilled with it. Just try not to remind yourself that it could sound twice as good if you had known what you were doing.
You'll get it right the next time around. Enjoy your new stuff in the meantime.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
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