Stealth Box and Sub

[Yaba3800]

is this setup still for sale larryfirebird33???
is it passenger or driver side stealthbox?

[CamaroKRAZED]

What are some of the things that i should look for when shopping for a subwoofer and an amplifier?

I am talking about stuff like this...
Ex: Ideally, should the peak output of the amplifier be equal to or greater than the peak output of the subwoofer?

What type of features are "mandatory" or "ideal" and what type of things should i try to avoid? Any advice would be very helpful... thanks!

[96firebird311]

Peak ratings for anything (sub,amp,etc.) don't mean jack. You need to be strictly looking at the RMS rating. The power output of the amp and the power rating on the sub do not have to match exactly. Not even close really. Biggest thing when buying both is to know the minimum load the amp is stable versus the load your subwoofer will be placing on it. (ie. The sub has a single 2 ohm voice coil and your amp is only stable to 4 ohms. That would be a problem)

As for features you should be looking for.... LP (low pass) filter is a must. That's about it for a subwoofer amp. Some other nice features would be a HP filter, variable crossover frequencies, variable crossover slope, remote bass boost... and maybe a digital voltage readout would be pretty cool I guess. Oh and it's also nice if all the knobs "click" in place. Then the owners manual should say like, "every click equal 5Hz" or something. Just helps you set everything more accurately. I'm sure you won't find many (or any) or these features on an amp in this price range. Probably just a variable LP filter and that's it.

Things to avoid? Unstable load on the amp as previously mentioned. And just any "flea market" brand amps. (Rockwood, Pyramid, Legacy, Soundstorm, Road Gear, etc.) Just because it says 500Watts on the box doesn't mean anything. If you've never heard of a brand, run it by us to see if it's junk or just a un-well known brand.

[CamaroKRAZED]

Would you elaborate on the whole ohm thing you were talking about in the example you gave above... you kinda lost me with that.


You have been very patient with me... i have been asking a lot of questions, and your speedy replies have been great. I appreciate the time you are taking to help me out... once again, thanks!

[96firebird311]

No problem man. It's fun to me....most of the time. [img]smile.gif[/img] Plus I can type pretty fast, so it doesn't take me too long to type what I wanna say. :D

Here's a couple links to brush up on:
From JL Audio
and Our own FAQ section

Note the two formula's used in the FAQ section. One for series connections and one for parallel. So if your subwoofer has dual 2 ohm voice coils and you wire them together in series, you will have a 4 ohm load. If you wire them in parallel, you'd have a 1 ohm load. Easy. You'll pick it up quick. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[CamaroKRAZED]

Well, you were right... i was able to pick up on the whole ohm thing pretty quickly. That JL Audio website really helped... but what helped even more was your part in the FAQ section pertaining to wiring a subwoofer to an amplifier. I really learned a lot from that reading... i even feel i have enough of an understanding to comfortably wire my own subwoofer and amplifier together.

I have another quick question... Does the wiring kit provide all the necessary wiring and connectors to properly wire the amplifier to the subwoofer and then to the head unit?

Also, how would i go about wiring the amp and sub combo to the head unit? I hope this part is going to be as easy! :D

[96firebird311]

Great! [img]smile.gif[/img] Glad to hear you're catching it!

Every wiring kit is different. Some contains things other do not.
1) Disconnect the battery from the car. Don't need any more sparks then usual. ;)
2)To connect the sub to the amp, you'll only need some speaker wire. (sometimes included) 16g is plenty big enough for the power you're running.
3)To connect the amp to the Monsoon headunit, you'll need a line output converter to tap into your speaker wires and give you RCA connections. Then run a set of RCAs from the LOC to the amp. (RCAs are sometimes included in the kit)
4)You'll also need a small thin run of wire to use as a turn-on signal.(always included) You can tap into just about anything for that. If you've installed a power antenna, the power wire for that would be perfect. If not, any wire that is hot with the key in ign would be ok. (also a section in our FAQ about it)
5) Now you just need to hook up the amps power and you'll be on your way. Connect the power and ground wires to the battery. (8g is fine) This can be tricky because most kits do not include anything for this. Go to www.knukonceptz.com and check out their battery terminals. That should do it. Connect the ground wire to a bare metal spot under the hood. The closer the better. Run the power wire to an inline fuse holder. (always included in kit) Install a fuse equal to the fuse size or max current draw of your amp. Run the power wire from the fuse holder through the firewall (note in FAQ) and under the carpet to the amp's + input. And finally, run a short as possible ground wire from the amp's negative power input to a nearby grounding point. Make sure it also is bare metal. (Sand by the big seat belt bolt. You'll see it.)

And you're done! Remember to make it as clean as possible. Hide all your wiring. This can sometimes take some thinking. Be creative if you must, but above all, be safe. That's worth bonus points. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[the bandit]

Im getting ready to do this exact same thing...wondering how yours went camarokrazed?

ANyway you guys mind telling me if these subs or amps are good or not thanks.

1.Rockbox RBX105W 10 Inch 600 Watt Dual Voice Coil
2.Pioneer TS-W28C 400 Watts 10" Subwoofer
3.Linear Power 300WATT High Efficiency Dome Tweeters
4.MA Audio M589i 600W 4 channel High performance Amp

Thanks guys

[CamaroKRAZED]

Actually, i still need to purchase the parts... just waiting to get some money together. I have been putting in some over-time the last few weeks to help with the cost.