Alarm install questions

[02PewterBird]

I bought a Viper 350HV alarm and want to install it myself and have some questions

#1-I would rather avoid installing the siren and want to hook it up to the horn instead. I'm assuming I need some sort of relay, but what kind, and how does it hook up to the siren output?

#2-What is the best way to access the hole in the vent on top of the dash for an alarm LED to go in? Could I access it if I removed the radio?

#3-I ordered DEI door lock actuator kits, but I haven't gotten them yet. The actuators each have a blue and a green wire, and the lock wires coming from the brain are green and white. Is there some sort of junction to connect the two actuators to the brain, or do I just wire them together and attach them?

#4-Is the best way to get power from the back of the fuse box by soldering the wires to available places with power, or is there an easier/better way?

#5-I'm not quite sure how to explain this one clearly, but the shock sensor is built into the brain and then there's another small box with orange and yellow wires going into it from the brain. The yellow wire comes back out, but the orange just goes in. There is a black wire and a green wire coming out of the box. Any ideas what the purpose of it might be?

#6-I think the only wires I need to hook up without the power locks are constant power, switched power, alarm ground, siren ground if I use it, siren trigger, and door trigger to the BCM? Anyone know of anything else?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

Well first of all i hope you REALLY know what you are doing if your going to be installing your own alarm. You can easily burn something up due to the fact that there is so many wires.

DONT get power from the fuse box, there is 1000 other places where you can get power from, and hide the brain someplace other than under the drivers side steering coulumn.

For example you can put it in the passenger side kick panel. BC once they find the brain, its all a matter of ripping it out and away with your car.

[nda0602v6]

1) If you want to use the horn you're going to need to find an output on your new alarm that sends out a "pulse" signal when the alarm is activated. This way the horn will sound on AND off over and over. The actuall 'siren' output on your alarm is more than likley a "constant" signal which would cause your horn to just stay on continuasly. Look on your alarm and see if it has an 'horn' or auxillary output that sends out a "pulse" signal and make sure the output is a (-). According to the FAQ page, the horn wire on our cars is a Black wire which is (-). If all you have is a (+) output then you'll have to use a relay to change the (+) to a (-).


2) I don't think you can access it through the radio opening. That entire dash piece where the vent holes are comes off. You need to remove the trim pieces going up along the left and right side of the windshield and then remove the dash piece. It's kind of a pain but it comes off. (If I remember right, its only held on with a series of velcro and plastic snaps). I think there was a topic on how to replace it not too long ago, do a search.



3) No there's no junction box or anything. You just have to splice them both together. Tie both of the Blue wires from the Actuators together and hook them up to one of the wires on the Brain. Then tie both of the Green wires on the Actuators together and hook them up to the other remaining lock wire on the brain. if you get the two wires on the brain mixed up the only thing that will happen is your locks will work oposite of how your alarm is armed. (locks will lock when you disarm the alarm for example) if that happens its just a matter of switching the wires.


4) When you remeove the lower panel underneath the steering column, you'll be able to access most of your wiring ( like the starter wire, power, etc) You'll see some thick wires (roughly 10awg) all wrapped up. Those are the main ignition wires which have constant 12volts, switched 12volts, starter wire and other various wires. You'll also be able to find your horn wire is this area. The FAQ page tells you what the color and function of each wire does. WARNING: NEVER MESS AROUND WITH THE AIR BAG WIRE. The airbag wire should be labled and covered in a 'yellow' sleave.


5) Your alarm should come with a wiring diagram which lists the function of each wire coming out of the brain.


6) don't forget about the starter wire for the starter kill funtion.

[whiteshark]

#2-What is the best way to access the hole in the vent on top of the dash for an alarm LED to go in? Could I access it if I removed the radio?

Yes you can, my stereo got stolen and I can see daylight in the hole where it used to be :D

Don't know any of the other questions, but I just got the same alarm, I'm having mine professionally done, I don't wanna f it up

[02PewterBird]

More questions:

1) I've got the actuators, but I still need to pick up a couple more relays for them. When I wire the relays can I use a quick splice connector to connect the two wires together to go to one ground, or should I run individual ground wires? I don't mind running wires, but would it work just as well to splice into an existing HU ground wire?

2) Is there room behind the stock HU to mount a small alarm brain? It doesn't need to be really sensitive because I'm not too concerned about the alarm and mostly want the keyless entry. Would double sided foam tape work, or is there something to tie it to? I've never pulled the HU out before.

3) Is it necessary to fuse the power wires? What about the door lock actuator power wires and door switch wires?

4) I've got the relay and the diagram to wire it to use the horn wire instead of the siren, but I can't find anything that mentions changing it to a pulsed output. Does anyone know if it's an option you can change with a DEI Bitwriter?

5) Has anyone mounted door lock actuators themselves? If you have, what's the best spot?

6) I think I'm connecting the constant power wire to the orange radio wire, the switched power wire to the yellow radio wire, the door switch wire to the white wire at the BCM, and the siren wire to the relay connected to the black horn wire. I'm not going to bother with the starter kill. Is this right? Is it okay to run the alarm off the HU power wires?

7) Where is the best place to connect the ground wires?

Thanks

[ June 28, 2004, 04:43 AM: Message edited by: 02PewterBird ]

[nda0602v6]

Don't use any of the HU wiring to power the alarm.

Tap into Constant (+) and Switched (+) under steering column. When you remove the small dash panel below the steering column, you'll see some wiring harnesses running down along the column itself. They probably will be taped up or in flex loom so carefully peel it away to expose the wires. The main ignition wires will be fairly thick and you'll see colors such as (Pink, Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown etc...). Again, tap into these wires to supply the alarm with power. The FAQ page says the thick Pink wire will be your Switched (+) and the Red wire will be your Constant (+). Don't cut the wires in half, just "splice" into them by pealing away some of the insalltion. After you tap into the wires, I always wrap each wire real well with black tape and put a couple small zip ties around the black tape to keep it from ever coming off. It makes a good connection.

Also, be SURE to fuse the alarm power wires. They should have some sort of fuse already on the power wires (most almarms do anyhow). You want it fused close to where you made the splice because if for some reason the alarms power wires were to ever ground out it will just pop the fuse, which would elimate a fire. If you need to supply power to a relay, fuse it as well.

As far as the ground, use an existing bolt somewhere as your ground. The HU ground wire is very thin and wouldn't be enough for an alarm and relays. When you remove the kick panel on the driver's side, you should see a bolt that has a bunch of ground wires tied into it. That would be a good place to tap into. (Those grounding bolts are on both the pass and the driver side on my 02 fireibrd).

You may have to just pull your head unit out and see if there is enough room or not. The trim panel around the HU and A/C controls just pulls right off. A couple 7mm bolts hold the HU in on each side and it pulls right out. (make sure you don't have the Theft Loc on the HU activated when you disconnect the HU plug).

I've installed door lock actuators before. It's not all that hard, it just takes time. With the door panel removed, you have to find a spot in the door where you can mount the acuator. All the actuator does is attach itself to the long thin metal bar that you slide left and right to unlock/lock your doors. (when you remove the door panels you'll see the long metal bar that slides). Is there anyway you can email me a copy of the alarm's wiring diagram sheet? (nda0602fh@wmconnect.com) If not I'll try and look it up.

[ June 28, 2004, 02:32 PM: Message edited by: nda0602v6 ]