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Originally posted by SirShaun: L7's wont fit in t-top box. I think u can only buy it in 2 12's or 3 10's.
Isn't 2 12's what you wanted to put in there? There is a pic of 2 s12l7's in a t-top box on the subthump site.
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
yea i want 2 12s but arent the L7s square? Looks like ttop box only holds round.
1994 Arctic White Camaro T-Tops(all options except leather)<br />80 Series Flowmaster Muffler<br />Ebay Cold Air Intake<br />Earthquake in the back known as a Kicker Solo Baric 15 L7<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/sirshaun\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/sirshaun</a>
Originally posted by SirShaun: yea i want 2 12s but arent the L7s square? Looks like ttop box only holds round.
It doesn't matter what shape the subs are. [img]graemlins/slap.gif[/img] People, my boxes are custom-built and I can cut the holes whatever shape is needed to fit the subs. I do L7s all the time. A 12 is a 12. Round or square. Just because you may not see a picture of a square sub in a particular box, that doesn't mean it can't be done. It can, but getting the pics of them is just more rare then with round subs.
Alright i guess im deciding between Kicker L7s, Audiobahn Performer Series, or Alpine Type R's. All being 12 inch.
In my cruthfield book the LS7 12 is rated at SPL (DB) 87.4
The audiobahns rate in at 92.8
Alpine Type R's at 87
So does that mean the audiobahns will be the loudest? Also the audiobahns are actually pretty cheap 130 for 1 12. I could probably get 2 for that price off of ebay. Just let me know what yaull would pick out of those 3.
1994 Arctic White Camaro T-Tops(all options except leather)<br />80 Series Flowmaster Muffler<br />Ebay Cold Air Intake<br />Earthquake in the back known as a Kicker Solo Baric 15 L7<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/sirshaun\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/sirshaun</a>
I'm not quite sure why you've limited your decision to just three makes.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
SPL ratings have little to do with how loud your system is going to be. Box to woofer to power match means everything. For purely SPL purposes, go with the L7's in the link I gave you earlier.
yes i am aware user101. I will most likely be getting my stuff off of ebay. I was just using the crutchfield book as a resource of information.
1994 Arctic White Camaro T-Tops(all options except leather)<br />80 Series Flowmaster Muffler<br />Ebay Cold Air Intake<br />Earthquake in the back known as a Kicker Solo Baric 15 L7<br /><br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/sirshaun\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/sirshaun</a>
Sound quality in subwoofers doesn't exist. What people percieve to be a good sounding sub, they are picking out things above 120Hz. All subbase is more felt than heard. With that said, look at what a subwoofer is made of. Polypropylene, extruded titanium, aluminum(Alumapro comes to mind) are all good cone material. Stay away from paper cones. I don't like foam surrounds, look for Butyl or Santoprene rubber, holds up very well. The first step to building a system is to pick the speakers you want, and then find an amplifier to power them. Check the sensitivty ratings on subs, the higher the better. You'll get more sound per watt, which will keep cost down(no monster amp is needed). Hope this helps. By the way, the Solobaric is phenominal performer, but it is power hungry. Don't get one unless you can throw some juice at it. 300+watts. It can handle even more due to its ability/need to be in a very small(<.8 cu. ft) enclosure. I know from experience.
Originally posted by Vyse: Sound quality in subwoofers doesn't exist.
Either your joking around or you have never heard a good SQ setup. Over 120? Most subs are crossed over no higher than 80hz. I have heard my share of setups and to say that sound quality in subs is non existant is ludicrous. SO your telling me that i should go get these subs over a w7, brahma, idmax, ed a series, and so on http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=18803
just because it has a higher sensitivity and an aluminum cone? I have read your other posts and it seems that you are pretty knowledgeable about car audio but I dont agree with this one.
Oh and welcome to the site [img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img]
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
Originally posted by Vyse: Sound quality in subwoofers doesn't exist. What people percieve to be a good sounding sub, they are picking out things above 120Hz. All subbase is more felt than heard. With that said, look at what a subwoofer is made of. Polypropylene, extruded titanium, aluminum(Alumapro comes to mind) are all good cone material. Stay away from paper cones. I don't like foam surrounds, look for Butyl or Santoprene rubber, holds up very well. The first step to building a system is to pick the speakers you want, and then find an amplifier to power them. Check the sensitivty ratings on subs, the higher the better. You'll get more sound per watt, which will keep cost down(no monster amp is needed). Hope this helps. By the way, the Solobaric is phenominal performer, but it is power hungry. Don't get one unless you can throw some juice at it. 300+watts. It can handle even more due to its ability/need to be in a very small(<.8 cu. ft) enclosure. I know from experience.
Some stuff may be a matter of opinion...but a lot of this is just plain incorrect. First, when it comes to the SQ of a subwoofer, the box makes all the difference. Nobody can argue that. But, the subwoofer itself plays an obvious important role. Any sub made by Pyramid sounds nothing like any sub made by Adire Audio. Plain and simple. Next, paper is probably one of if not THE BEST material to be used for cones AND foam is a great canidate for surrounds as well. Both are very light weight and durable. Look at the big boys. What do you see them using? Paper and foam. Lastly, a speakers SPL spec has little to do with how loud the final product will be. You're saying because this Pyramid sub has an SPL rating of 93db, that means that it is going to be 6db louder then the 87db rating of the Alpine Type-R? And BOTH of the them will sound the same as this cr@p?!!? Hell no. The SPL spec is so insignificant, you shouldn't even look at it when picking out your gear....
Originally posted by Freeser: Either your joking around or you have never heard a good SQ setup. Over 120? Most subs are crossed over no higher than 80hz. I have heard my share of setups and to say that sound quality in subs is non existant is ludicrous. SO your telling me that i should go get these subs over a w7, brahma, idmax, ed a series, and so on http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=18803
just because it has a higher sensitivity and an aluminum cone? I have read your other posts and it seems that you are pretty knowledgeable about car audio but I dont agree with this one.
Matt
Your posts have been dead on and completely readable lately Matt. Good advice. Keep up the good work.
/spelling nazi [img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img]
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
Your posts have been dead on and completely readable lately Matt. Good advice. Keep up the good work.
/spelling nazi [img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img]
Hey, 1101 good to see you again. [img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img] Thanks for the compliment. I agree, now that I look back on my past posts I wonder what the the hell I was thinking.
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
And BOTH of the them will sound the same as this cr@p?!!? Hell no.
[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] What are you talking about 311, funky pups sound ten times better than a w7 or Brahma. [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
Originally posted by Freeser: [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] What are you talking about 311, funky pups sound ten times better than a w7 or Brahma. [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]
LOL. Yeah. It would take 20.13 of those 15"s to equal the price I paid for just ONE of my 15"s! [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]
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Isn't 2 12's what you wanted to put in there? There is a pic of 2 s12l7's in a t-top box on the subthump site.
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