I have a 96 camaro with the bose system i have since put a poineer deh6500mp deck, blaupunkt 6.5 2 ways, they kinda suck, a kenwood 1000watt amp and a fosgate hx2 1000 watt sub which hit real good. my question is, how can i disable the factory sub. the rear speakers go through the plug that seems to be where the sub gets its signal. and its by far ther weakest speaker, its blowing out.
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DISABLING SUBWOOFER
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DISABLING SUBWOOFER
96 RS dark green, 1st drag race ever 8/6/04 r/t .126, 1/4..16.142, mph..83.65, home made 3\" exhaust(ill post pics soon)turbo muffler, home made CAI<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045</a>Tags: None
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yeah, it really is that easy.2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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no it isnt if you undo that plug then the two rear speakers are also unhooked how can i get them to work with the sub unpluged, i tested with a volt meter and tried to jumper some pins in the plug harness to no avail96 RS dark green, 1st drag race ever 8/6/04 r/t .126, 1/4..16.142, mph..83.65, home made 3\" exhaust(ill post pics soon)turbo muffler, home made CAI<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045</a>
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If you have to keep the plug connected for your other factory speakers to work, and you don't care about the factory sub anymore, how about just cutting the lead wires that feed directly into the voice coil area of the sub. If you cut those, the sub will have no way of working and you can still keep the connecters connected. Just a thought.2006 Tiburon
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Originally posted by nda0602v6:
If you have to keep the plug connected for your other factory speakers to work, and you don't care about the factory sub anymore, how about just cutting the lead wires that feed directly into the voice coil area of the sub. If you cut those, the sub will have no way of working and you can still keep the connecters connected. Just a thought.
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why would i do that i could possibly sell the thing but what i want to do is take the whole thing out to reduce weight and open up space because the custom build box for my 12 fits in the fender where the factory one used to be so my question is does anyone know which wires if any need to be jumpered to reconect the two rear speakers. i dont want to ruin either the box or the factory wire harness in the car because that affects resale ability. im surprised no one has run into this problem and solved it yet.96 RS dark green, 1st drag race ever 8/6/04 r/t .126, 1/4..16.142, mph..83.65, home made 3\" exhaust(ill post pics soon)turbo muffler, home made CAI<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045</a>
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Originally posted by azrscamaro:
im surprised no one has run into this problem and solved it yet.
These speakers you want to keep working in the back...are you talking about the ones wayyyy in the back as in the hatch area? Most people who are running aftermarket subwoofer(s) back there don't even use those little speakers anymore. If you want rear fill I would suggest installing some speakers on the sides where the rear seat passengers sit. If you still prefer to have the speakers wayy back in the hatch work, all I can suggest is to take some time and trace down the wires from the Connector you're talking about and see how they wire up to the speakers. Good Luck.2006 Tiburon
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ok i have four suround speakers. two in the doors and two in the back seat right next to the passengers. they are bluapunkt, like i stated earlier. there is also the rear factory sub in the hatch area. i would like to remove this to put my sub in its place however when i disconnect the plug which has wires going in and out of it the two speakers in the back seat no longer work. the sub must get its signal from these wires(the ones powering the two speakers in the back seat) which pass through this wiring harness going to the sub however in no configuration that i have been able to find by jumpering the wires do the rear speakers reconect. I am utterly amazed that no one has observed this, maybe there just isnt enough traffic in this forum. i dont want to cot or mangle anything unnescesarilly. somone please help me.96 RS dark green, 1st drag race ever 8/6/04 r/t .126, 1/4..16.142, mph..83.65, home made 3\" exhaust(ill post pics soon)turbo muffler, home made CAI<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045</a>
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Not that it hasnt been solved its just that most people just rip that bose crap out and go with all after market.
Why dont you remove the amp inside the factory sub and just tuck it in somewhere it doesnt show. That way you can get rid of the bulky plastic box but still keep your rear speakers.
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Originally posted by azrscamaro:
I am utterly amazed that no one has observed this, maybe there just isnt enough traffic in this forum. i dont want to cot or mangle anything unnescesarilly. somone please help me.
Your first post mentioned you have an aftermarket CD-Player. Why don't you just use the built in 4-channel amp on your CD-Player to power your Blaupunkts? You really aren't gaining anything by running your Blaupunkt speakers off the factory Bose amp simply because the Ohms are probably all different. Factory Bose and Monsoon speakers use different configurations of Ohms ranging from 4OHMS to 2OHMS whereas typical aftermarket speakers like your Blaupunkts' are all 4OHMS. All you would need to do is run new speaker wire from your CD-Player to the 4 Blaupunkts. By running new wire, this would prevent any damage, cutting or splicing into your factory wiring. OR you could do like Camarowidbass has suggested and that would be to cleverly stash the factor Bose amp and keep the factory wiring in tact. Again, good luck and I hope you get it working.2006 Tiburon
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Originally posted by nda0602v6:
Why don't you just use the built in 4-channel amp on your CD-Player to power your Blaupunkts?╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
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sorry for my comment. but you still misunderstand me, i am using my head unit, pioneer(deh 6500mp) to power these speakers all four of the suround speakers (excluding the 5th one, the factory subwoofer). That is how i intend for it to remain, there are already wires going from the head unit to these speakers, the problem appearently (this is why im asking for help) is that the wires going to the two rear (back seat)speakers passes through the wire harness for the factory subwoofer. it would appear that it (the factory sub)gets its signal from these four wires the wires going to the rear speakers (back seat) so when i unhook this plug (plug to factory subwoofer) it also disconects the rear (back seat) speakers. do you see what im saying now. so yes one alternative solution would be to run new wires from the headunit to the rear( backseat) speakers, i see that as my last choice, i dont want to do that but if i have to i will. just to clarify if youve yet to understand what it is im trying to say. i dont want to use the factory subwoofer, its box, or its amp, at all, im going to take it out. so now i am left with on side of this plug connection (wiring harness) with 7 conductors going to it one of which is uninsulated. If you guys have the bose system this should all be the same on your vehicles. finally my question was, I thought that i might be able to buy a plug or some thing to plug into this socket to reconnect the rear speakers once i have disconnected the sub or simply jumper some of those wires in the harness. thank you96 RS dark green, 1st drag race ever 8/6/04 r/t .126, 1/4..16.142, mph..83.65, home made 3\" exhaust(ill post pics soon)turbo muffler, home made CAI<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/666045</a>
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Other than the factory Bose Amp which powers your factory sub, the factory Bose Amp probably ALSO powers the other 4 speakers (or atleast the 2 speakers in the back where the rear passengers sit)
Maybe Bose is different but the way the Monsoon Amp works is like this: From the factory wiring coming out of the Head Unit, it first goes to the factory Monsoon Amp. Then from the Monsoon Amp the factory wiring then goes to the factory speakers/woofers.
If your Pioneer CD-Player is wired directly into the factory wiring behind the dash, its not really powering your Blaupunkts from the 'amp inside the Pioneer CD-Player'. The Bose Amp more than likely is powering the Blaupunkts. Its very simple and damage free to your car to run new speaker wire from your Pioneer CD-Player to your Blaupunkts in the rear.2006 Tiburon
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Don't know if this helps any, but...
Pin Wire Color Circuit Number Function
E1 Dark Green 117 Right Front input -
E2 Grey 118 Left Front input -
E3 Tan 201 Left Front input +
E4 Dark Black 46 Right Rear input +
E5 Light Blue 115 Right Rear input -
E6 Yellow 116 Left Rear input -
E7 Brown 199 Left Rear input +
E8 Black 650 Ground
E9 Black 650 Ground
E10 Unused Unused Unused
E11 Orange 1040 Fused battery feed
E12 Orange 1040 Fused battery feed
E13 Black 1856 Left Subwoofer +
E14 Yellow 1956 Left Subwoofer -
E15 Dark Blue 1857 Left Front speaker +
E16 Light Blue 1957 Left Front speaker -
F1 Light Green 200 Right Front input +
F2 Light Green 1852 Right Subwoofer +
F3 Purple 1952 Right Subwoofer -
F4 Light Blue / Black 315 Right Subwoofer -
F5 Dark Green 1795 Right Subwoofer +
F6 Dark Green 1953 Right Front speaker -
F7 Orange 1853 Right Front speaker +
F8 Unused Unused Unused
F9 Unused Unused Unused
F10 Light Green / Black 1794 Left Subwoofer -
F11 Dark Blue / White 346 Left Subwoofer +
F12 Unused Unused Unused
F13 Red 1955 Right Rear speaker -
F14 Tan 1855 Right Rear speaker +
F15 Tan 1859 Left Rear speaker +
F16 White 1959 Left Rear speaker -
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