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Then I'd mate it to an Infinity Reference 610A. That will supply a 650 signal across a 2 Ohm load. It should run you $297 to your door from sounddomain.
It should be extremely reliable because you're well under the maximum rating of the speaker, it'll be running on a comfortable 2 Ohm load, and it's a class D amp.
Infinity has been out of the amplifier business for a few years, but they've recently gotten back in. Their last line of amplifiers were outstanding from a price and reliability standpoint. I bet these newer models are too.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
Originally posted by viper04af: i love kenwood 1000W rms
It's ironic that the first time you manage to string together four words without mispelling any of them, you manage to F up anyway by giving stupid advice.
The speaker is rated at 750W RMS. Why on God's green earth would he use a 1000W amplifier to drive it?
Did it ever occur to you that you're functionally retarded? You might want to visit with a mental health professional for a clinical exam. You might qualify for some goverment assistance if your retardation is profound enough.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
Originally posted by user1101: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by viper04af: i love kenwood 1000W rms
It's ironic that the first time you manage to string together four words without mispelling any of them, you manage to F up anyway by giving stupid advice.
The speaker is rated at 750W RMS. Why on God's green earth would he use a 1000W amplifier to drive it?
Did it ever occur to you that you're functionally retarded? You might want to visit with a mental health professional for a clinical exam. You might qualify for some goverment assistance if your retardation is profound enough. </font>[/QUOTE]:rolleyes:
umm mine are only 300W RMS but theres this little thing on the amp called a GAIN you dont have to turn it all the way up that way the amp dont have to put out 100% all the time to drive the speaker
BTW i happen to have a 2 year degree in electronics
is the speaker 1/2 or 1OHM 2OHM or 4 OHMS ? oh wait dont matter IT WILL STILL WORK with power to spare
Originally posted by 96firebird311: Come on now children... user, what happened to "excellence in forum-ness"?
He detracts from it. Reading his posts is like wading through sewage. If he's going to post irresponsible advice here, I'm calling him on it. You can thank me later for drumming up some activity in this forum.
Originally posted by viper04af: ...but theres this little thing on the amp called a GAIN...BTW i happen to have a 2 year degree in electronics
You probably don't want to get into a pissing match about education background with me Andrew.
So you're actually suggesting that he should buy more power than he needs and set the gain back so he never uses it?
First of all that's a complete waste of money. Second, it will instantaneously void any warranty that he had on the driver. Third, he's going to have to rent/borrow/buy a heavy duty Wattmeter to set his gain properly. At what point does he see any benefit from spending more money on capacity that he can't use? And how does that benefit outweigh the three problems I just listed?
Originally posted by CAMAROWIDBASS: And in my opinion $297 for a 600 watt amp is wayyyyyy to much. I can get a HiFonics Brutus 1500D for less than that.
I'll quote you again:
How Much to Spend on amplifiers?
Rule of Thumb: A Buck A Watt
First of all, it's a stupid rule of thumb. Does it refer to a 1 Ohm load? A 4 Ohm load? I have no clue what to make of this guideline. Fifty cents per Watt is reasonable. After you've been through a half-dozen amplifiers, you begin to appreciate the value of paying for quality the first time. The infinity amps that I've used are the most reliable units I've had experience with to date.
Regarding the Brutus...you're still recommending a 1000W amplifier for a driver rated to handle 750W. Even though you may be comfortable exceeding the specifications of a $240 driver, the parent poster probably is not. Let's ask him.
The JBL 600.1 is a discontinued model. It's getting more difficult to find. How many hits does this Ebay search turn up? Its predecessor, the GTO601.1, is priced at $350 from the same site. Of course he can hunt for better prices, but the JBL and Infinity are on par when it comes to an online retail pricetag. Now since the JBL unit has always been regarded as an no-frills economy amplifier, why would that one be preferable to my (less expensive) original recommendation?
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
well actually if you bought this ub from a retailer like circuit city or best buy it is close to a $400 sub.
anyway...CAMAROWIDBASS...you really think it is ok to run more that 750 RMS to this sub? maybe i will get an 800 watt amp. But wouldnt it be best to try and get an amp also made by kicker?
Im still a little confused about the OHMS. I thought if you bought a 4OHM sub you needed an amp that ran at 4 OHMs? Can someone help me out with that or is there anything i can search for that will explain?
1997 Camaro<br />17x9 Chrome SS wheels, SLP CAI, Magnaflow Catback,<br />High Flow Cat, Blacked out Lights, 20% tint, AUDIO: 1600W Kenwood eXcelon Amp, 12\" Kicker L7, 1 Farad Cap (Recently STOLEN),<br />H&R Springs and KYB AGX\'s,<br />Billet Grille
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
Originally posted by fabolous24: Im still a little confused about the OHMS. I thought if you bought a 4OHM sub you needed an amp that ran at 4 OHMs? Can someone help me out with that or is there anything i can search for that will explain?
These subs that you are looking at a Dual Voice Coil subs aka. DVC. These subs are wired as if each voice coil is a separate sub. Therefore if you have the dual 4 ohm version of the sub, you have the option to wire it in parallel, yielding a 2 ohm load or wire it in series yielding an 8 ohm load.
Dual 4 can yield a 2/8 ohm load
Dual 2 can yield a 1/4 ohm load
If you get the dual 4 ohm version of the sub then you need to find an amp thats output (RMS) at 2/8 ohms is comparible to the RMS of the sub (750 Watts).
If you post how much you are looking to spend i'd be more than happy to give my imput, and post a wiring scheme for the recommended amplifier.
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
Originally posted by fabolous24: yea ive heard kenwood excelon is good. But ok say im running the amp at 800 watts at 2 OHMS. would my sub need to be 2 OHMS or 4 OHMS?
also...im looking to spend up to around $350...maybe $400
that sub is dual 4 ohm voice coils, if you wire in series its going to 8 ohms [img]graemlins/barf.gif[/img] big wast of power.
you need to wire the coils in parallel (sp?) to give you a 2 ohm load
or you have to get 2 amps and put one amp on each voice coil
www.turbov6camaro.com 1997 3800 Series II Camaro 4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug: 7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod) 11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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