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ok so heres what i got:
-12" kicker L7 Solo Baric 4OHM
-1600 watt Kenwood Excelon amp
-1 Farad capacitor
-4 guage wiring kit
-L7 sub enclosure
So ill be running 800 watts RMS from the kenwood amp to the L7. I think its guna sound prety damn good...let me know what u think...ill post back in about a week when its all installed.
1997 Camaro<br />17x9 Chrome SS wheels, SLP CAI, Magnaflow Catback,<br />High Flow Cat, Blacked out Lights, 20% tint, AUDIO: 1600W Kenwood eXcelon Amp, 12\" Kicker L7, 1 Farad Cap (Recently STOLEN),<br />H&R Springs and KYB AGX\'s,<br />Billet Grille
\"Well, we don\'t care how bad-*** some dude\'s N/A Honda S2000 motor is; if you go up against 900+ pushrod ponies and 750 pounds of earth-shaking torque with a wrong-wheel-drive econobox, you\'re gonna get a fast and furious old-school ***-whipping.\"
Its a 1600 watt PEAK amp. He says that he will be pushing 800 watts RMS to the sub. I think that the cap should give you enough electrical support to handle the 800rms but if it doesnt then you will have to look into a HO alternator as kamarozrule stated earlier.
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
Instead of buying a cap he should save that money for a HO alt or an 800+CCA battery.
you know, youre allowed to tell ME instead of suggesting it to everyone else...but im sure ill be fine, my friend is running the same amp to a JL W6 without a capacitor on his mazda 626.
1997 Camaro<br />17x9 Chrome SS wheels, SLP CAI, Magnaflow Catback,<br />High Flow Cat, Blacked out Lights, 20% tint, AUDIO: 1600W Kenwood eXcelon Amp, 12\" Kicker L7, 1 Farad Cap (Recently STOLEN),<br />H&R Springs and KYB AGX\'s,<br />Billet Grille
Originally posted by CAMAROWIDBASS: Instead of buying a cap he should save that money for a HO alt or an 800+CCA battery.
Thats very true i agree totally. However im pretty sure that the cap should be able to provide enough electrical support for 800rms on the stock alternator. If you go up above 1000 watts then you may need to look into a HO alt.
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
For storage purposes, you'd need ~2,200 1 Farad capacitors to equal the energy of your battery.
ok now you tell me which one is a better choice.
I know what the better choice is!
The fact of the matter is that he has already ordered his system. All that I am saying is that the cap will be sufficient enough to provide the stuffening needed to handle 800rms. BTW your analogy is off due to the fact that you battery is storing energy for ALL the electrical components of your car as where the cap is delegated to the sound system alone. Also a HO alternator would be the best choice of all seeing as how the sound system is drawning off the alternator while the car is running.
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
Not trying to start a war here [just trying to learn a little], why would the HO alt be the best choice of all?
All alts I know of do very little charging at idle [not helping the sound system much]. Wouldn't the battery be the better choice for all conditions if you could only choose one thing? Just a thought.
\'00 f-bird 3.8 M5 coupe, pewter metallic<br />Torsen LSD, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Y87 muffler, aftermarket stereo<br />-more fun than the Oldsmobile it replaced...
Originally posted by terminaldegree: Not trying to start a war here [just trying to learn a little], why would the HO alt be the best choice of all?
Its pretty simple actually. While being driven the alternator supplies ALL the current required by the electrical accessories (i.e. stereo, lights, etc..) unless of course the capacity of the alternator is exceeded. The only time that the electrical accessories run off the the battery is when the car isnt running or when you exceed the limitations of the alternator. (also sometimes when the car is at a very low idle). The battery is actually a load on the charging system while the engine is running.
Fabolous i wold highly reccomend that you perform the "big 3" to allow for more current to flow through your electrical system.
Order in electrical system upgrades...
"Big 3" > HO Alternator > Battery > Cap
Matt
\'93 Red 3.4L Camaro<br />Engine: Jet II, Pacesetters, K&N FIPK, Accel Wires, Iridium Plugs, Flowmaster, ASP U/D, 180 Thermo, much more...<br /><br />\'98 Z28 Vert Triple Black A4 Stock for now<br />34000 Miles<br /><br />Not enough room in the sig for my stereo.
my friend is running the same amp to a JL W6 without a capacitor on his mazda 626
i really dont think any of this stuff is necessary, i know plenty of people running this amount of power who dont even have capacitors...Just my opinion.
1997 Camaro<br />17x9 Chrome SS wheels, SLP CAI, Magnaflow Catback,<br />High Flow Cat, Blacked out Lights, 20% tint, AUDIO: 1600W Kenwood eXcelon Amp, 12\" Kicker L7, 1 Farad Cap (Recently STOLEN),<br />H&R Springs and KYB AGX\'s,<br />Billet Grille
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
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