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  • going to get a new system....what do you think of the price?

    this is the list, sorry for no name brands cause i dont know them but im going to do more research and everything but the place im getting eveything from mainly sells kickers and other really good brands.

    two 3 way 6.5s for $80
    labor at $30
    two 3 way 6.5s for $80
    labor at $30
    Panasonic CD head unit for 259.95
    free labor on that
    kit for $15
    harness for $10
    antenna for $10
    two tweeders for $80 (if i want after listening to just the 3 ways)
    labor at $30

    total of 671.01

    the 6.5s are normally $90 something a pair i guess
    labor for everything i usually $35
    tweeders are also usually $90 something a pair i guess


    so what do you think? [img]graemlins/popcorn.gif[/img]
    2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

  • #2
    dont get 3way, get components. for 600 you can do a damn fine system if you do all your sound stagine upfront and use some cdt cl components, and an xtant 2200ix amp for those (about 200 for the amp). the hu is up to you but i always recomend eclipse. check out thezeb.com to check the price of the cdt's they are absolutely awsome. if you want to do the rear speakers (and i recomed against this) get the cdt coax for like 50 from thezeb and to save money run it of the hu or get a 202m xtant to run them if you want to spend the money. CDT and the xtant amps i recomended are pretty top notch, you wont be dissapointed especially for the price.
    2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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    • #3
      oh and learn to do the work your self, its not that hard and its worth the money you save. there are several of us who can walk you through it.
      2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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      • #4
        T-Punk makes a good point-

        You can get better/more stuff if you take the time to do the install yourself. I have done these on two of my own cars and two of my family's, and the F-body is certainly not that difficult to deal with for a DIY job. The hardest part was removing the interior panel of the doors, and that wasn't really that hard at all. The rear speakers are so easy it's stupid to pay anyone to put them in. The HU install is ridiculously easy too.

        If you did it yourself, and you wanted to use just the existing speaker locations, you would have enough money left over to get a sub, build a box for it, and buy a smallish 2-channel amp for the sub. That's a big difference in sound for the money.

        I also agree about the 3-ways: more speakers in a single enclosure isn't necessarily better. My favorite coax speakers [non-component] have usually been 2-way designs. For speakers, I have used and liked Polk db, Infinity reference, and some older Soundstream [very nice]. I run a Memphis studio 12" sub and a JVC deck [picked it for the longer warranty]. Let us know what you pick and how you like it.
        \'00 f-bird 3.8 M5 coupe, pewter metallic<br />Torsen LSD, Pro 5.0 shifter, Spec stage 1 clutch, Y87 muffler, aftermarket stereo<br />-more fun than the Oldsmobile it replaced...

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        • #5
          CDT CL-61a (149.95) for fronts
          http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1083
          CDT CL-6x (49.95) for rears
          http://www.thezeb.com/detail.aspx?ID=1087
          Alpine 9830 (212.95) HU
          http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...718816296&rd=1
          Clarion APA2160 (109.95) to power fronts (80x2)
          http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...719357297&rd=1

          TOTAL COST = $522.80
          then add in the kit and harness
          Just my $.02
          Eclipse 8443, CDT ES-620s in doors (Clarion APX401.2), IEK, CDT 6X in rear(HU), Image Dynamics ID10v.3D.4 in stealthbox(Clarion DPX1001.2)<br /><a href=\"http://www.sounddomain.com/id/larryfirebird33\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.sounddomain.com/id/larryfirebird33</a><br />borla cat-back, FTRA, whisper lid

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          • #6
            ok, i'll look into some two ways and listen to the difference. we are disconecting the back speakers and not replacing them cause he said for a sound system i want its worhtless. the idea of installing it myself sounds good but i think i'll have him install it anyways....maybe. and about the subs and stuff. im not really into that too much, but maybe a later project. this is just to fix my broken speakers and update alittle for a better sound and so they will last longer. please keep giving me opinions and links. im going to be studying for a good 3 months atleast.
            2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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            • #7
              well, since you are only replacing the fronts i would seriously recomend the CDT cl-61a's. they are of the highest quality and our cars have components in the front anyway so its no biggy to put them in. also the clarion HU's are very good. other amps to look into are elemental design's new ED amps, and some of the last gen alpines are reasonable now, but i would still recomend the xtants i listed earlier.
              2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard

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