Alpine Type-R 12's

[bluev6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by jamie:


blew them might be the wrong word, but they stopped working. some stereo shop guy said it was because he wasn't feeding them enough power...<hr></blockquote>

Yes its true you can only "blow" speakers if they arent getting enough prower, but other problems can also occur when over powered, but being blown :D (ha ha) can only happen when speakers are under powered

[96firebird311]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by bluev6:
Yes its true you can only "blow" speakers if they arent getting enough prower, but other problems can also occur when over powered, but being blown :D (ha ha) can only happen when speakers are under powered<hr></blockquote>

What the hell are you talking about?

[dfedzina]

BlueV6 is right. Speakers get blown when you don't give them enough power. The signal gets scattered and distorted and the speaker doesn't 'hit' right. That's where you blow your speakers. Of course putting way too much power to your speakers will also blow them b/c the signal is TOO harsh on a speaker.

[bluev6]

96firebird311 you know it is ok to be wrong and seriously stop being a dick and step off and you would know what im talking about if you even knew the first think about speakers. So go to Circuit City and have fun being rude to the mobile audio depart. :mad:

[96firebird311]

Before you lower yourself any further, please explain to me what exactly a "blown" speaker is. Keep pretending that I don't know anything, and explain EXACTLY what happens when a speaker is "blown". Ever tasted a foot before??

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by dfedzina:
BlueV6 is right. Speakers get blown when you don't give them enough power. The signal gets scattered and distorted and the speaker doesn't 'hit' right. That's where you blow your speakers. Of course putting way too much power to your speakers will also blow them b/c the signal is TOO harsh on a speaker.<hr></blockquote>


Often times when a speaker is under powered the signal from the amp becomes distorted or it even starts to clip. All this abuse takes a toll on the speaker and the voice coils is the first thing that goes.

Also you are more likely to blow out a speaker by under powering it, than by over powering it.

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

Speakers are killed by 2 things (well 3 if you count idiots, weather, and time--actually, that's 6) [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

The age old discussions of:

Does Clipping Kill Speakers? or If you UNDERPOWER speakers, you'll kill them! Too much Distortion will fry your tweeters!

...has gone on long enough. Back in 1997, a company called RANE Professional Audio Products did a study on the above entitled, "..Power Amp Clipping and It's Effect on Loudspeakers.." aka RANE Note #128 provided a scientific analysis to the entire trio of issues.

I'd invite you to go to the following link: www.rane.com/pdf/note128.pdf

or their main website www.rane.com for more information on the study. For the purpose of saving you time, here's a summary:

There are main causes of speaker failure--Heat and Overexcursion.

HEAT

Manufacturers give us ratings of RMS & Peak power. As long as the speaker is accurately rated (operative word is accurate), a 300W RMS speaker should be able to dissipate 300W of heat continuously all day long. As long as the amplifier output is AC (and it always is), the speaker will move and cool adequately. Should you put 500W continuously, that speaker will likely fail since the voice coil will melt, causing it to warp, scrape and rattle loose.

OVEREXCURSION

As long as a speaker is accurately rated, and the recommend box size is adhered to, a 300W/600W RMS/PEAK speaker should not experience mechanical failure at a temporary level of 600W. Basically, the speaker is likely to reach its maximum excursion then, and not be damaged. Put significantly over 600W through the speaker, and mechanical damage will occur.

Should you put the same 600W through the speaker, but oversize the box to 1.5x it's recommended level, the speaker will reach it's Xmax much before 600W. EX:

15" woofer 300/600 RMS/Peak
Rec Sealed 2 cu ft
Vas 6 cu ft
Xmax 22mm (7/8")

Under normal conditions, the speaker would reach the 22mm distance (Xmax) with 600W of power. Putting the woofer in a 3 cubic foot box could mean that the Xmax may be achieved with only 400W!!! After 400W, the speaker will 'bottom out' or start to overstretch the connection between the spider and the cone, causing it to separate.

CLIPPING, DISTORTION & Music. What's the Diff?

Surprisingly, your speakers don't know the difference either! Distortion is basically defined as output that does not match the input. Or in plain English, you put in music, but you got Music + a bunch of noise. From a speaker’s standpoint, Music, distortion, and clipping are all POWER. It doesn’t care what you call it.

Sometimes, distortion IS the intended goal. Take guitar sounds for example. All guitars have a specific sound-basically acoustic in nature. Rock guitarists use an amplifier to create distortion. By turning up the Pre gain, and turning down the post, they are able to regulate the amount of 'sizzle' that comes out of the amplifier. This sizzle is sound that DOES NOT come out of the guitar, but is generated by overdriving (clipping) the amplifier.

CLIPPING

is defined as reaching the maximum output voltage of a given amplifier or amplifier section. If an amplifier is capable of putting out 100W @ 4 ohms with a 4V RCA input @ 100Hz, that a 20V maximum output. Should you put in 6V in, the amplifier won't be able to produce more than 20V, so the additional output will be 'clipped' off.

What many perceive as louder is that other frequencies (besides our 100Hz tone) continue to get louder. This additional signal continues to add to the Heat of the speaker. In the case of 2way speakers, the larger woofer may not be getting more than 100W of power, but the tweeter may be getting more than was intended. Component sets rated at 100W rms are usually designed for the woofer to get 100W of power, but the tweeter may not be likely to handle more than 10 or so watts. Continuing to increase the volume level will exceed it’s 10W capability.

[ October 24, 2003: Message edited by: CAMAROWIDBASS ] [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

[ October 24, 2003: Message edited by: CAMAROWIDBASS ]</p>

[96_fbody_sixpack]

toward the end of this post i see people kinda missed the point. will it rattle was the question. the answer is, YES with the right amp.

now do you want it to rattle ? if yes, then nothing else is needed to say. if no, then learn the fine art of "dynomat" and a piece of carpet on the back license plate. :D

[T-Punk]

go cheaper and get phat-matt (i think thats how they spell it) its the exact same stuff as dynomat only cheaper. anyone who tells you different has fallen victem to marketing and the fact that they need name brand... even for their sound deadener. also get it off ebay its even cheaper and its delivered right to your door :D also do your self a favor and get a decent amp to power those subs (by this i mean get one with equal rms to the subs rms AND a low THD this will give you a nice clear signal). and here is where i preach "GET A NEW XTANT OFF EBAY, THEY ARE THE BEST AMPS YOU CAN BUY". ok im done now

[drew2786]

i think i'll get something from subthump.com

[bluev6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 96firebird311:
Before you lower yourself any further, please explain to me what exactly a "blown" speaker is. Keep pretending that I don't know anything, and explain EXACTLY what happens when a speaker is "blown". Ever tasted a foot before??<hr></blockquote>

wow thats going to be hard to send me your foot over the internet

[96firebird311]

It's hopeless....