what is the 3.4 stock altenator????

[spunger]

I have been trying to figure this out. Is our altenators 120 amp or less (105-120)??? I am looking into upgrading my altenator to a high output model and was just curious as what ours was for stock.

Any models of cars that our altenators would work in (same year z28 altenator fit into our cars)??? Just curious

Any places that sell beefer altenators for 3.4 v6's online? Please let me know

Chris

[v6maro]

pretty sure it's 110
-Steve

[EyeOutThere]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by spunger:
I have been trying to figure this out. Is our altenators 120 amp or less (105-120)??? I am looking into upgrading my altenator to a high output model and was just curious as what ours was for stock.

Any models of cars that our altenators would work in (same year z28 altenator fit into our cars)??? Just curious

Any places that sell beefer altenators for 3.4 v6's online? Please let me know

Chris<hr></blockquote>

Z28 alternators will not fit.

Getting a high output alternator is not really worth it unless you are having a hard time keeping your battery charged. I got one off a guy on E-bay, but it wasn't really "high output".

Just make sure you have a capacitor, and stick with the stock one until it goes "poof". Then get a rebuilt one from NAPA, AutoZone or the like.

Is there a reason you want a "High Output", or are you just planning ahead?

[spunger]

Well I want to go crazy with my stereo, (much crazier than it currently is) and want to know what the amp draw would be. I plan on running either a pair of IDMAX, MASS, or an alternitive on either 1 JBL 1200.1 amp or 2 (one per sub) to boot. I talked to one place online and they sell 160 amp replacement one's for $179 (figure $200 shipped).

Just trying to wonder how much current draw would I have, and would I need a new altenator.

[Brian Dieckman]

Most "high output" alternators are no better than stock for non-idle draw. What they ARE good at is low RPM output.

The shop I used to work at would put these on show cars just because they could give their best under low idle speeds. At normal crusing RPM's (2K+) they won't put out any more than stock.

IF you listen to your stereo at max volumes while in idle ALOT, go for the alternator. Otherwise, you would be better served by spending that money on a Cap or heavier gauge wire, etc.

If you listen to your stereo with the engine OFF for long periods of time, you would be best served by a deep discharge gel cell battery that can handle the charge/recharge cycle. (remember to keep a spare with you when you're not racing)

Besides, stock alternators are CHEAP. If you melt one, it's a hundred bucks. If you melt a high output one, it's WAY more just to get it rewound.

-Brian

P.S. For goodness sakes, remember to fuse AT BOTH ENDS! Just for safetys sake!

[Jhonathan]

sorry to use your thread but it applies to my question as well...

will just an alternator work? i have the stock alternator with a decent battery, not stock but it does have a few hundred more starting amps than the stock batt, but i have a hell of a time making my system stay out of protection, its not due to the amp overheating either its just running out of juice, what would be the best way to fix this problem? and dont say buy a higher efficiancy amp cuz im a poor college student and cant afford that just yet [img]smile.gif[/img]
would a cap fix my problem? also what about a batcap? if i put a deep cycle optima and a high output alt on there would it cure my habit of kicking my system into protection?