System Works great. got some questions though.

[HotWheelz]

The remote wire SHOULD be just blue. I dont think there are any other blue wires, but im not too sure.

[Tyler]

will i need a test light to check?

[Tyler]

Channels 2
Per channel power 150 W X 2 @ 4 Ohms RMS

300 W X 2 @ 2 Ohms RMS

600 W X 1 @ 4 Ohms Bridged RMS
Total power 1800 Watts Peak/Max

300 Watts RMS
Bridgeable Yes
Crossover HP 50-250Hz 12dB per Octave

LP 50-250Hz 12dB per Octave
Tone controls Bass Control

0 to 18 dB @ 45 Hz
Signal input Low level -

Quantity - 1

Type - RCA(pr)

Voltage -100mV - 6 volts

High Level -

Quantity - 1

Type - Plug(multi-pin)

Voltage -.5 - 11 volts
Line output
Phase control
Power input Connector - Block

Wire gauge - 8
Speaker output Block
Power supply topology
Output topology
Display Power -

Position - Top mounted

Type - LED
Heatsink Type -Cast
Protection Yes
Remote control Included

Type - Wired

Controls -

Bass


Class
Marine use
Specifications
Stereo/Mix mono
Frequency response 20 to 20k Hz +/- .5 dB
Dimensions 2.38 X 9.85 X 13.07 (inches)


those are the specs of my amp. is this a good amp? i hear its a great amp, just want you guys' opinions

[FireFighter]

ok well when you said 1800 watts I was thinking rms. They should sound alright if you can wire the subs to 2ohms each. did you get 4ohm DVc or the 2ohm DVC subs? either way I have never liked alpine either but you can't go wrong with a rockford anything! good luck and yes you need the rem wire and yes it should be blue. Where did you get your box at? also with 600 watts rms a 1 farad cap will be fine because I bet that amp will never see 800 watts.

[Tyler]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by FireFighter:
ok well when you said 1800 watts I was thinking rms. They should sound alright if you can wire the subs to 2ohms each. did you get 4ohm DVc or the 2ohm DVC subs? either way I have never liked alpine either but you can't go wrong with a rockford anything! good luck and yes you need the rem wire and yes it should be blue. Where did you get your box at? also with 600 watts rms a 1 farad cap will be fine because I bet that amp will never see 800 watts.<hr></blockquote>

whats the difference between 2ohm DVC subs, and 4 ohm DVC subs?


and whats RMS stand for? im hooking this amp up to just the subs, so how much power will be going in each sub?

i want as much power as possible to go into each sub

[ July 17, 2003: Message edited by: Tyler ]</p>

[Tyler]

ok so i got the system installed and it hits NICE and pretty damn hard! im happy.


but my friend told me if i bridged the speakers. i could make it hit significantly harder without even messing with the gains.


this true? how would i do it?

[speedy-v6-camaro]

He is talking about how you wire the speakers...the way you wire them determines the ohms and you can run different ohms. I have 2 4ohm DVC's wired in parallel so its 1 ohm. You need to make sure your amp is 1 ohm stable first.

[Tyler]

hmm.. i guess i'll give it a shot. i don got much to lose anyways.. if the amp goes out.. i got a warranty


is 1 ohm better than 4, or 2 ohms?

i never understood this OHM stuff.. care to explain?

[megabass]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Tyler:
hmm.. i guess i'll give it a shot. i don got much to lose anyways.. if the amp goes out.. i got a warranty


is 1 ohm better than 4, or 2 ohms?

i never understood this OHM stuff.. care to explain?<hr></blockquote>

Quick crash course to educate the youngins'

Ohms is a measurement of impedence. Impedence is nothing more than resistance of a coiled wire around metal or magnet--which is slightly different than regular resistence like in lightbulbs.

Your amp puts out power measured in wattage. In the spec manual, it should say what the RMS rating at 4ohms and 2ohms is. And also what the bridged rating is.

Bridging is a function of the amp and not of how you wire subs. When you bridge the amp, you combine two channels down to one channel which increases the output.

Whenever I bridge an amp, I never run a final impedence lower than 4ohms. Bridging to 2ohms is bad for the amp (or at least for mine). I like to compare the bridged power rating to the rating at 2ohms. Whichever is higher is how I run my subs. Right now I have a 2channel amp and I run it bridged to two 4ohm DVC subs. So my final impedence is 4ohms. But since I have a 2 channel amp, I could easily run each sub to a separate channel on the amp and wire the coils on each sub in parallel to get a 2ohm load. But my amp isn't 2ohm stable so I don't run it that way.

RMS is the continuous power output of the amp. Forget anything that says MAX watts because that is misleading garbage. Just hype to think you are buying something powerful. When you post here, please talk in terms of RMS.

The wiring of the sub determines the impedence of the circuit and how much power your amp will supply the circuit. For example if your amp is rated at 200watts at 4ohms, and your sub is wired to 4ohms, then you will get 200watts (give or take depending on the brand).

But lowering the impedence(load, your amp will supply more power. You will notice that most times the power rating @2ohms is higher than the rating @4ohms. Except JL amps. Their ratings remain the same.

Most users will wire their equipment to achieve that lower impedence because of the higher output.

The way to lower or raise the impedence your amp "sees" is all in how you wire the coils on the subs. To calculate the impedence when wiring in parallel, you divide the individual impedence of each coil by the number of coils (in a given circuit). So one sub with 4ohm DVCs wired parallel has a final 2ohm impedence. 4/2=2 If the sub had 2ohm coils, then you'd get 2/2=1ohm

Series wiring you just add them up. A 4ohm DVC sub wired in series is 8ohms. A 2ohm DVC in series is 4ohms.

You can also do combination series/parallel if you have more than one sub. Like in my system. The coils on my subs are wired in series. I have two Solobarics 4Ohm DVCs. So each sub when wired in series acts like an 8ohm unit. I have those two units wired in parallel and that cuts the impedence back to 4ohms.

Now if my amp was 1ohm stable I migh wire parallel/parallel. Meaning I would wire each sub in parallel and then the two units also in parallel.

Conclusion: It is very important to understand "Ohms" to maximize output and avoid burning up the amp. It's not hard. Learn it [img]tongue.gif[/img]
I would not depend on your "warranty" There is nothing to say they will replace something you burned up because you misused it. Warranty is for manufacturers defects, not for user carelessness.

The quiz is next friday
:D

On a side note--&gt;
I would not depend on your "warranty" There is nothing to say they will replace something you burned up because you misused it. Warranty is for manufacturers defects, not for user carelessness. I really hate seeing attitudes like thinking if you trash your equipment you should be entitled a new one. I guess I have a different perspective, but that costs companies money and raises prices. And I hate paying for other people's stupidity. Paying higher taxes because of welfare and all the jerks in prison and is bad enough. :mad:

[Tyler]

so megabass..

could you look over the specs on my amp, and tell me what is best for me to do?

i posted the specs on my amp in an above post.

the subs im running are 2 ten inch alpine type r subs.

this is all greek to me.. but i will learn it sometime. im a visual learning person.. i can learn from just reading some mumbo jumbo

[megabass]

First, we need to know if your subs are 2ohm DVC or 4ohm DVC. That makes all the difference

[Tyler]

:( HOW do i find out?

no where on the box or in the manual does it say.

lemme check their website..

brb with an update


UPDATE ON SUB: SWR-1041D
10" Type-R Series Subwoofer (4ohm + 4ohm)

i believe its this one. i'm not 100% sure.. more like 90% sure.

if anything i'll check the box, which is at my friends house, tomorrow

but for now.. lets work with these subs

SWR-1041D
10" Type-R Series Subwoofer (4ohm + 4ohm)

[ July 18, 2003: Message edited by: Tyler ]

Edit AGAIN!: i just got off the phone.. they are the subs listed above.

[ July 18, 2003: Message edited by: Tyler ]</p>

[megabass]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by megabass:
First, we need to know if your subs are 2ohm DVC or 4ohm DVC. That makes all the difference<hr></blockquote>


Okay, if they are 4ohm dvc subs

and your amp is:
Channels 2
Per channel power 150 W X 2 @ 4 Ohms RMS
300 W X 2 @ 2 Ohms RMS

600 W X 1 @ 4 Ohms Bridged RMS

And if the amp is stable at 2ohms, I would just wire each sub parallel into each channel of the amp. I don't see any advantage in the specs to bridge. But if those subs turn out to be the 2ohm versions, then this all goes out the window--you know. And, since you're a visual person I won't bother typing all the text needed to explain it. Instead, there is a nifty diagram right in the manual that shows exactly how to wire for parallel.

[img]tongue.gif[/img]

[Tyler]

so it says 600 W X 1 @ 4 Ohms Bridged RMS

.. does that mean if I wire them parallel, it will work at 600 watts RMS? rather than Per channel power 150 W X 2 @ 4 Ohms RMS???

[Tyler]

well i bridged, or TRIED TO bridge my subs.. didnt work.. they hit.. but very nasty. like i had no more than stock power to them.

what i did was this.. on my amp, there are two parts for wires. LEFT SPEAKER and RIGHT SPEAKER.

i took one speaker wire, stripped the ends on one side, and twisted them together, and put them in the LEFT + side.. then took the other end of the wire and put one wire in the left + sub spot, and the other in the Right+ spot.

then i went to the Right speaker - and did the same. putting one in the left - and one in the right -.

did i do this right?