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Ok im planning on getting 2 12" Infinity Subs. Now i need some help on the amp part i also have what kind of head unit i want. and the box for the subs!
Subs:
For those subs I would use something like a rockford fosgate 501s amp, or something that puts out about 250-275w to each sub on a 2 ohm setup. Be sure the amp you get is stable to 2 ohms as well. I actually have a RF 500s amp (basically the same as the 501s, except the 500s is a 2002 model and the 501s is a 2003 model. They put out the same wattage) that I want to sell and haven't gotten around to putting up on ebay yet. Email me if you might be interested and I'll get you some pics.
Also, check with whoever that is you're buying your box from and be sure the airspace on the box matches up with those subs. Other than that you should be good.
2000 3.8L Firebird, Silver Metallic<br /><br />\"Yes, London. You know, fish, chips, cup o\' tea, bad food, worse weather, Mary f***in\' Poppins, London!!\"
First off, the headunit. Please note the seller has 0 feedbacks and is brand new to Ebay. Yes, everybody has to start somewhere, but I don't think I'd leave my $500+ dollars to chance it. And in the listing for the box, "These subs are heavy due to the massive power capability." What's that all about? :D
Anyway, you're subs have dual 4 ohm voice coils. So contrary to what memphis_raines has suggested, you're going to run at 1 or 4 ohms. Parallel-Parallel for 1 ohm OR Series-Parallel for a 4 ohm load. A 2-channel amp running in bridged mode to a 4 ohm load will probably offer you more bang for the buck then a 1 ohm stable monoblock. I'll post more in a bit. [img]smile.gif[/img]
Originally posted by memphis_raines: I didn't spend a lot of time researching his subs, but dual 4 ohm subs CAN be wired for a 2 ohm load because that's how I did mine. Here's how: http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/1-4-2.aspx
:rolleyes:
Your patience with this forum is incredible 96firebird311.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
Originally posted by user1101: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by memphis_raines: I didn't spend a lot of time researching his subs, but dual 4 ohm subs CAN be wired for a 2 ohm load because that's how I did mine. Here's how: http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/1-4-2.aspx
:rolleyes:
Your patience with this forum is incredible 96firebird311. </font>[/QUOTE]It must be if he puts up with people like you. If you have nothing better to do than criticize others' posts without making any kind of contribution whatsoever, get the f*ck outta here.
2000 3.8L Firebird, Silver Metallic<br /><br />\"Yes, London. You know, fish, chips, cup o\' tea, bad food, worse weather, Mary f***in\' Poppins, London!!\"
NO **** THESE ARE FOR QUESTIONS THAT PEOPLE THAT DONT HOW TO DO STUFF ASK PEOPLE THE ARE REALLY GOOD AT THIS KIND OF STUFF! JUST GET OUT HERE BIATCH!!
Back onthe subject what should i get for the amp specifiacally what kind of wattage and type if if u could give me a name of one and where i couyld buy it it would be very nice thanks so much!
Anyway.... back to the subject at hand. [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img]
Originally posted by memphis_raines: I didn't spend a lot of time researching his subs, but dual 4 ohm subs CAN be wired for a 2 ohm load because that's how I did mine. Here's how: http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/1-4-2.aspx
Use a 2-channel amp and that wiring setup and it should give you a 2 ohm load per channel.
Yes. Yes. Of course a single dual 4 ohm subwoofer can be wired for a 2 ohm load. But TWO dual 4 ohm subwoofers cannot. Note that you should always run your subwoofers with a mono signal. Please see that section in our FAQ topic. It can be found in the Modifications Encyclopedia. [img]smile.gif[/img]
99firebird99, none of this is as difficult as it may seem. Read through our FAQ page. You could probably answer your own questions after that....hence the reason we created it.lol
Just look for a 2-channel amp that outputs around 600WRMS x1 @4 ohms. Your cheapest but quality brands are going to be Rockford, MTX, Pioneer, Infinity, Alpine, etc. Stay away from flea market brands such as Rockwood, Baja, Pyle or Pyramid. In this particular case, if you've never heard of it before, don't buy it. Shouldn't be any more then maybe $225 at most. The older model Rockfords were king of cheap 2-channels a year ago. You might be able to dig up a couple locally or maybe Ebay. 701S I believe is the model number for the amp you'd be looking for. And before that, we all remember the good ol' JBL BP600.1. Damn powerful amp for the dollar. 600WRMSx1@2ohms and it's 1 ohm stable. New for $175. Unbeatable. Again, Ebay.
Once you have your amp, you'll want to wire both positives on the each sub together. Same for the negatives. Now each sub should have a single pair of + and -. You have just done a parallel wiring scheme. Your subs now are 2 ohms nominal. Next, take a positive from one sub and the negative from the other. Run them to the + output on the RIGHT channel of your amp. Take the remaining + and - from your subs and run them to the - output on the LEFT channel of your amp. You have just done a series wiring scheme on your woofers (4 ohm load) AND bridged your two channel amp into a single more powerful channel. Boom away. ;)
Originally posted by memphis_raines: It must be if he puts up with people like you. If you have nothing better to do than criticize others' posts without making any kind of contribution whatsoever, get the f*ck outta here.
Sorry, i'm not falling for that troll-bait. The last time I put the resident moron in his place, I had to ride the bench for a week. Why don't you act like a man, admit that your response was entirely incorrect and move on? Honestly, do you really think wrong advice is better than no advice at all? Sub-wiring configuration is one of the most rudimentary concepts in car audio and you completely flubbed it. Please.
The reason I admire the moderator here is that as our cars age, they become more accessible to kids that just got their license a few years ago. Those same people think it's acceptable to type in all caps, use slang like 'biatch' and 'u', and still expect an intelligent response to their questions. No thanks.
╓<br />║ Matt M<br />║ <a href=\"http://home.austin.rr.com/morrism/3800/sunset_logo2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Down with the Sixxness</a> <br />║ Polo Green 1995 3.8 Camaro<br />║ intake, cat, catback, shocks, 3.42\'s, and 12\'s in the trunk<br />╙
Listen u little mother f*cker u think that u are so high and mighty just because u can type good. Go f*uck yourself. Maybe u shouldnt be on this forum maybe u should go to like a little b*itch forum. And as for the u's and biatch its just short for "you". Im sure u can figure that one out smart ***. And for the biatch part its so that the automatic cuss word thing doesnt pick up on it and do this to the word ****. And for the capitalize i did that so that u would see it and read it. to get my point across. And as for the people who just got their liscence. most of them know more about cars then u. So u can go and shut the f*ck up. dont ever post like that on here again. the only thing i did was post a simple question and u had to come along with ur high and mighty *** and shoot it down the ****ter. Piece out MOFO. ooops my bad. bad grammer!
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
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