Sub cuts out at high volume?

[Greg94Red392]

My sub cuts in and out at high volumes. It's like it just refuses to play loud and it will just skip a bass line. Happens on all types of music. Even country. If theres like a really long bass line it will play it loud for a sec, then its like it just gets tired or something and takes a 2-3 second break. If I turn the volume back down it will start to play again immediately. This happened on my old kicker comps but I assumed it was just b/c those subs sucked and it eventually stopped doing it. But now I have a L5 and it seems to do it more than the comps did. It's getting really annoying. My friends tell me to crank it up and I really can't b/c my sub wont play loud. I know its not overheating b/c it does this weather its 32 degrees outside and I just started my car or its 90 degrees after an hour long road trip. Please HELP!

12' Kicker L5
800watt Pioneer amp (Gain IS set to Normal) (Upgrading Soon)

[96firebird311]

Temp outside may not mean anything. One of two things are happening. Amp is over-heating or going into short protection. Do you have model numbers for the sub/amp? That will help us figure out exactly what's going on here. How do you have the sub wired to the amp? Does the amp have a protect light? Does it light up when the music cuts out? Some amps have several lights and one may be labeled "thermal". Is this the case with your amp?

[Kidcamaro98]

its your ground most likely going in and out. Where do you have your ground hooked up too> do you have a capacitor too? what kind of amp/ sub are you running...a little more info would help

[Nikos95]

Okay your sub isn't cutting out at all, subs don't move and stop... If they stop they are dead, and you blew it.. Take a better look at your amp, and power and ground cables, make sure they are tight, and good connections, make sure they are big enough.

I can help you out some more here also, what amplifier are you running, and is the sub dual 4ohm or dual 2ohm coils, and how is that wired? Sounds alot more to me like you are underloading your amp, and the amp is turning off in protection mode for a second.

Also another thing temperature outside wont affect temperature of the sub or amp.... They hold heat too well...

[96firebird311]

I'm sure all his wiring is securely connected. The amp cutting off at only high volumes and then kicking back in when the volume is lowered is a SURE sign of either thermal or OVERload protection. More likely thermal.

And from the picture on your cardomain page... I can't see much with that wiring jumble you have... [img]smile.gif[/img] ... but I did notice the 4g(?) red power wire and don't see the same size ground wire being used. That's a no-no. Always use same size power and ground. They are one in the same. Can't do one without the other.

[Greg94Red392]

Oh. Those pics are old I should really update. I had all my wiring done professinaly using 0-gauge Tsunami wire. I went out and looked today and the light on the amp doesnt change color, blink, or do anything different when it cuts out so i'm still stumped.

This is my amp


My sub is wired in a series which yes I know the amp is not meant to handle 1 ohms but I dont think that has anything to do with this. My old subs did the same thing and amp was handling exactly what the box said it could. Maybe I should just wire it up in a series just to see what happens?

[Silverbird2002]

Let me guess, your radio goes out after like 5 minutes of playing load right? It just cut’s out completely. Then when you turn it down it comes back on and sounds great right? If so 1 or 2 things are wrong. First, did you install an after market stereo? If so you will need to see if you hooked the “pink” wire up. I had a 94 firebird and had the exact same problem with mine. The pink wire is for your stock amp. Without that hooked up it will cut out all the time until it is hooked up. The 2nd thing that may be wrong with it is that your amp is not getting adequate ventilation and it’s cutting out to cool down. Check your fuses and your connections to make sure. If there is a fuse in the back of your head unit check that as well. Further, solder connections are better then the crimp connections, also known as “butt splices” so make sure you give all your spliced connections a tug and make sure there good and tight.

[Greg94Red392]

I do have an aftermarket radio. I did not install it. I had it done professionaly along with the amp. I think we have different problems. The other thing that cuts out on my system is the amp. Speakers still work, everything is still powered up except for the sub which is mute. All of my connections are soldered.

[96firebird311]

I assume you meant that your sub is wired in parallel now?

Your amp is overheating. Rewire to a series load and I bet all your problems disappear.

[Silverbird2002]

Yea I will have to agree with 96firebird311
it sounds like your amp is overheating. What size wire are you running? Also what is the ground wire size?

[Greg94Red392]

Originally posted by Silverbird2002:
What size wire are you running? Also what is the ground wire size?

0 and 0

I dont understand why its overheating. Enlighten me.

[Nikos95]

When you underload your amp, hence run an amp that is only built to run at 2ohms at 1ohm you are seriously heating it up. Even if it doesn't feel hot to the touch some times it is overheating. It could also be overload protection and not allowing it to get hot at all. But I can tell you right now that pioneer amp wont take that kind of punishment. I overlooked the other issue though, it would be a good idea to check, does all your sound cut out or just the sub? If its all the sound then yes the wire on the deck, if its just the sub you are having a problem with your amp. The color of the light doesn't change on all amps for all reasons either. I would definetly wire it series and hook it back up, you are going to loose alot of power, but it will stop before you toast your amp. Then just look at another amp to push the sub properly.

Let me know what happens. Good luck.

[Greg94Red392]

Alright ill hook it up in a series tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes. And just a FYI, i'm upgrading to a Viper D600.1 soon which apparently is 1ohm stable.

[Nikos95]

Ya, it is, and about 1000x better of an amplifier. The Viper line was made by Directed Electronics, all made in the united states, and idividually tested. Great amps man, they run with PPI... I think that will make you plenty more than pleased.