requirements for 2500watt system?

[01PewterDropTop]

1/0 power cable is needed. but what amp alternator and any changes to the batterie? I also plan on runing 750w power inverter, and 1-2 LCD's. so i am woundering what i will need to suport all this power draining fun stuff! ! !PS2, Lapbop, you know

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

at least a 180 amp alt.

dual optima yellow tops

big 3

smaller pulley on the alt to get more juice out of it at idle.

sound deadining and lots of it

[01PewterDropTop]

got the deadner in, where can i get a smaller pulley??? for 3.8l? and a good alternator ive seen 4alterstart.com any others out thier that are good?

[KC]

he quoted me a 200amp for 220 a few months back.....been told he does good work aswell! Click here!!

[01PewterDropTop]

sounds cool, What about the pulley?

[ March 20, 2006, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: 01PewterDropTop ]

[Nikos95]

Depending on how you want to run it, you might want to consider dual alternators also, Phoenix Gold will custom make an alternator up to 300amp I think but they cost you your liver! Also don't forget I would use probably a 50 Farad Cap Bank, but run at least a 10 farad. Two three, batteries for certain!

Not sure where to get the pulley, never used a smaller one on my alt..

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

smaller pulley from

http://h-o-alternators.com/

[01PewterDropTop]

50 fared!! ? really i was only thinking 5. wow. its all startying to sound really difficult

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

dont do a cap, its a waste of money. Instead of doing a cap do a battery.

850cca battery = 2,200,000 farads

For storage purposes, you'd need 2,200 1 Farad capacitors to equal the energy of your battery.

[96firebird311]

Originally posted by CAMAROWIDBASS:
For storage purposes

That being the key quote in the sentence. For storage purposes. Didn't we have thread debating this topic? Now were did I put that sticky... [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img] And didn't we have a discussion about multiple batteries too? Next to useless while the car is running. They will sustain 12V solid, but will not do a thing to maintain 14.8V. And yes, that drop is enough to notice on the headlights.

And some/most high output alts will already come with a smaller pulley then stock. Cheap and helps their numbers look higher. Say a company designs an alt that does 80 amps AT IDLE. Now they swap out the pulley for a smaller one, (Which probably doesn't cost them anything in exchange) and now it does 95 amps at idle. Get it?

Are we talking 2500WRMS? What amps do you plan on using? I have more then that now and all I'm running is an Irragi H/O alt and yellow top under the hood. Been that way for some time. Headlights dim when I have it bumpin hard, but nothing under normal listening levels. Yes 1/0awg is probably a must. Post up with what amps you plan on using.

[01PewterDropTop]

2500 watt max mostlikely not doen planing yet maby will endup being more like 3500 max watts.
Power acoustik amps ts-980, ts-960, ts-620 and maby another 1000db amp for another sub not sure yet.

[Nikos95]

Originally posted by CAMAROWIDBASS:
dont do a cap, its a waste of money. Instead of doing a cap do a battery.

850cca battery = 2,200,000 farads

For storage purposes, you'd need 2,200 1 Farad capacitors to equal the energy of your battery.

That is a good point the battery only holds 12volts.
On top of that a cap can provide instant transfer of power, a battery is not capable of such. If you draw a solid 80 amps off your battery and switch it to 130amps on an instant you will get a very serious voltage drop for an instant, I have seen as bad as 10 volts flat on 90amp drawing amps off 2 Brand New Optima yellows, and a 115amp alt in a car that came with an 80 factory, and no headlights or other serious electrical items on.

I personally run a 50 farad for my currently 2 amplifiers. I draw a max of 120 amps for my system. Personally I choose the 50 farad bank because I have had it for awhile. You could get away with a 10 and it would make a world of difference.

That is also a better way of looking at it.
What is the total of the fuse ratings in your amplifiers, that makes all the difference. This watt rating on your amp requiring different cable size really doesn't exist. A class A amp can draw 80 amps of power and only put out 200 watts, where as a class D can draw 80 amps and put out 1000+ watts of power rms..

[01PewterDropTop]

2400 watt max.620w 2x20 amp fuses,980w 2x25 amp fuses and not sure think it will be 800w 2x20-25
total 130-140 amps . thinking 1 yellow top optima, 20fared cap, 180-200 amp alternator?
My convertible has limited trunk space and i dont think ill bve putting am extra batterie in thier unless it will fit behind the stealth box.

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

i know for a fact an extra battery has helped out my voltage drop. I used to go around bassin and at a certain volume the amp would cut off BC it would be drawing so much current and it would go into protect.

Soon as i added another optima yellow top in the back it hasnt done that since.

[Nikos95]

Originally posted by 01PewterDropTop:
2400 watt max.620w 2x20 amp fuses,980w 2x25 amp fuses and not sure think it will be 800w 2x20-25
total 130-140 amps . thinking 1 yellow top optima, 20fared cap, 180-200 amp alternator?
My convertible has limited trunk space and i dont think ill bve putting am extra batterie in thier unless it will fit behind the stealth box.

That would about do it! Sounds like a good plan.

And yes the extra battery if you are having that severe of a problem will help, your amp was turning off because you were bouncing around 9-10 volts flat..... OUCH!