W7 in side compartment?

[AllTheGoodNamesAreGone]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slow:
just for your information.

t-tops will hit the foam suround of the W7 in the stealth box.

a 1/2" piece of weatherstripping to put the top on a angle, seems to work good, along with grinding the t-top holder on the passenger side so it can slide over.

Ryan.<hr></blockquote>


ewwwwwww.. dude.. fiberglass a custom box.. cheeper.. custom fit.. maybe a little more volume too.. no grinding things down..

[megabass]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AllTheGoodNamesAreGone:



ewwwwwww.. dude.. fiberglass a custom box.. cheeper.. custom fit.. maybe a little more volume too.. no grinding things down..<hr></blockquote>

Uh, that was a fiberglass box. .93 cubes is hard to beat on the driver's side.

[AllTheGoodNamesAreGone]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by megabass:


Uh, that was a fiberglass box. .93 cubes is hard to beat on the driver's side.<hr></blockquote>

well.. if it has fitment issues ad this is his "i neeeeeed to have" sub.. then do it like this..

get some fiberglass.. and lay it in the general area.. down into the vent area.. and even up the side where the stock rear speaker is.. then enclose it.. and make a front plate out of mdf.. but slightly resess the sub into the box so it wont hit the t-tops.. we a little over a cube this way for a friends firebird..

[megabass]

Hind sights is 20/20. Noone expected the sub to hit the t-top. It's also very hard to 'glass the entire area behind there--including behind the side trim panel, while keeping the box to a reasonable price. In your cars, it's totally fine when you're doing the project for yourself and you're just paying for materials and the extra time doesn't matter. But that wasn't the case.

And really, on an after-the-fact basis, the sub could be recessed into the mdf baffle a little. Would take some router work and new carpet.

[slow]

your right about the router, but you would also need to make a second trim ring, so you can get the sub in place, line up the silver surround, that holds the foam onto the mounting panel, as the W7 is not a typical speaker with visible screw holes, they are hidden under the foam surround.

The subthump box IS custom, and is a GREAT product, makes my JL box look small.

I would have never guessed about the foam either, and after doing the install into the box, and all of JL's "installation procedure" i was not going to take the 12 screws out, and try to recess it. As it would be a lot more work, due to the design of the W7.

Ryan.

[AllTheGoodNamesAreGone]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by megabass:
Hind sights is 20/20. Noone expected the sub to hit the t-top. It's also very hard to 'glass the entire area behind there--including behind the side trim panel, while keeping the box to a reasonable price. In your cars, it's totally fine when you're doing the project for yourself and you're just paying for materials and the extra time doesn't matter. But that wasn't the case.

And really, on an after-the-fact basis, the sub could be recessed into the mdf baffle a little. Would take some router work and new carpet.<hr></blockquote>

Dude.. i am not knocking your stuff or anything so please dont be offended.. Just trying to help out..

JL 10W7
Sealed Range: 1.00 - 1.375 cu. ft.
with a .09 displacement..

that meens you need atleast a 1.1 cube box.. for it to be in its "ideal" range..

good luck..

[megabass]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AllTheGoodNamesAreGone:


Dude.. i am not knocking your stuff or anything so please dont be offended.. Just trying to help out..

JL 10W7
Sealed Range: 1.00 - 1.375 cu. ft.
with a .09 displacement..

that meens you need atleast a 1.1 cube box.. for it to be in its "ideal" range..

good luck..<hr></blockquote>

I know man. And I'm not sore or offended at all. I'm just trying to point out that in an attempt to make these custom for more than one person, we couldn't spend weeks and weeks trying get every ounce of usable space outta that area. And if you could, it would put the cost beyond the range of what most ppl would be willing to spend.
This box was really meant for you're average 12" sub. But the 10w7 was a worthy candidate. I've had 10w7s in a lot smaller spaces and they still work quite well. Not ideal I agree, but close enough that I don't think you'd be able to hear the diff.

Besides, I didn't build it. I used an outside fabricator and that's what he came up with.

[ December 10, 2003: Message edited by: megabass ]</p>