Need help on wiring my system....Expert advice needed!!!

[SPEEDYGUN]

Alright, I need some help with how to wire my system. I have purchased everything except the Install kit for my amps. This is what I have:

For the front , I have:

CDT CL-61 6.5" Components.....90 watt RMS and 4Ohm

A JBL Power P-180.2, (RMS Power: 90W x 2 ), to power the CDT's


For the rear, I have:

2 12" JL Audio 12W3 Subs -(4OHM) enclosed in a custom sealed rear well box

And a JL Audio 500/1 Amp to power the subs.


I need help with wiring all this together. I don't want to have to pay money to have someone install this if I can help it.


I know I am going to need a dual amp kit to install this. Would this Dual kit work?

Kit Includes:
17 ft Blue 4ga Power Cable
3 ft Silver Ground Cable 4ga
8 ft Blue Power Cable 8ga
6 ft Silver Power Cable 8 ga
20 ft High Quality Speaker Wire
16 ft Blue Remote turn on wire
17 ft Twisted Pair RCA Digital Interconnect Cable
20 ft Twisted Pair RCA Digital Interconnect Cable
Solid Metal Battery Terminal Clamp
In-Line Fuse Holder With Fuse
1x4 ga in 4x8 ga out Fused Distribution Block
Ring Terminals Installed
5 ft Split Loom
15 Pc's Cable Ties
4 Heavy Butt Connectors
4 Light Butt Connectors
6 Spade Terminators
1 Pass-thru Grommett


Also, I have seen someone post a wiring diagram for a dual amp setup on here, but i can't find it. Can anyone help me with this?

Bridging amps and speakers, wiring speakers at 2, 4, or 8 OHM, is like greek to me. Please help an audio newbie out..... :D

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

If i were you i would run either 2 seperate wires or one thicker one.

I dont like the idea of you using 4 gauge for both amps. Maybe try using 2 gauge for both amps. Or 4 gauge for the 500/1 and then 8 gauge for the 90/2.

As far as wiring your speakers that will be straight forward, just + to + and - to -.

[Feddy]

Instead of an inline fuse you will need to get a distrubution block. This will let you run in one power wire, and run out as much as four. Also you will need either a head unit with dual preouts, or some y adapters so you have two sets of rca jacks. I have 1500 watts watts running from a 4ga power wire, and have never had any problems.

[CAMAROWIDBASS]

Originally posted by Feddy:
Instead of an inline fuse you will need to get a distrubution block. This will let you run in one power wire, and run out as much as four. Also you will need either a head unit with dual preouts, or some y adapters so you have two sets of rca jacks. I have 1500 watts watts running from a 4ga power wire, and have never had any problems.

That 4 gauge must be like 6 feet long then. Theres no way 1500 watts flows through 18-20 feet of 4 gauge.

Im running about 1500 RMS, and i use 0 gauge.

Also make SURE you fuse each and every power wire you run at least 8'' from the battery.

[slow]

Originally posted by Feddy:
Instead of an inline fuse you will need to get a distrubution block. This will let you run in one power wire, and run out as much as four. Also you will need either a head unit with dual preouts, or some y adapters so you have two sets of rca jacks. I have 1500 watts watts running from a 4ga power wire, and have never had any problems.

wrong, you ALWAYS need a inline fuse or breaker within 18" of the battery. (closer the better, most regulating bodys for competions spec 18 as the max, i like to go with 8" or shorter)

a true 1500 watts, at 100% efficiency (not going to happen) is 1500/12 = 125 amps, too much for 1 run of 4 gauge, if thats really your system power.

I run 4 gauge, on 1100 watts of "advertised power" but it really about 500 watts "rms" total, so im fine.

Ryan.

[Feddy]

I have a 4 ga running from my battery to the distrubution block, then to a 2 farad cap. Then to a JBL 800 watt and 600 watt amps, the 800 runs to 2 15" Cerwin Vega's, and the 600 watt running to 4 6.5" mids, and my head unit, and eq running to 4 dome tweets. I will agree an inline fuse is recommended, but the distrubution block is going to blow a fuse before it hurts the amps. I have seen systems running 5 amps, and 8 12" subs running of 4 ga with no problems.

[Feddy]

P.S. Maybe I've never seen any problems because I always run atleast a 2 farad cap??????

[96firebird311]

Here's the diagram you asked for. Anf for an explaination of bridging amps and wiring subwoofers, check out our FAQ page. Link is at the top od the forum. Next, a single run of 4g will be sufficient for both those amps.

Instead of an inline fuse you will need to get a distrubution block. This will let you run in one power wire, and run out as much as four.

This is incorrect. A fuse next to the battery is a necessity for every install. The closer the better. Also, you can run as many wires as you want from a distribution block. Are you saying I can't have a d-block with a single 1/0awg input and 40 22awg outputs?

you ALWAYS need a inline fuse or breaker within 18" of the battery.

Steer away from breakers. Thermal breakers (the most common type) take too long to open to provide adequate protection. And even worse, they lose their "accuracy" the more times they are tripped. 100amp breaker trips at 100amps first time. 103amps second time. 107amps third time. etc. You get the idea.

The 500/1 and P180.2 both can accept up to 4awg power and ground. Since you are running 4awg from the battery already, mise well buy a couple extra feet and send it to your amps as well. You'll need a distribution block such as this one. And what do you plan on doing about RCA connection? You already have an aftermarket headunit? Plan on using a LOC?

Freddy, 5 amps powering 8 subwoofers off a single 4awg? Yes, it is possible just not very probable. I assume 4 subamps and a 2 or 4-channel for front stage? Anything more then about 100WRMS per woofer would require a larger power wire. And most people who run a setup like that are running a lot more power then that. And having a cap has nothing to do with that.

[user1101]

Originally posted by 96firebird311:
Here's the diagram you asked for. Anf for an explaination of bridging amps and wiring subwoofers, check out our FAQ page. Link is at the top od the forum. Next, a single run of 4g will be sufficient for both those amps.
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Instead of an inline fuse you will need to get a distrubution block. This will let you run in one power wire, and run out as much as four.

This is incorrect. A fuse next to the battery is a necessity for every install. The closer the better. Also, you can run as many wires as you want from a distribution block. Are you saying I can't have a d-block with a single 1/0awg input and 40 22awg outputs?

you ALWAYS need a inline fuse or breaker within 18" of the battery.

Steer away from breakers. Thermal breakers (the most common type) take too long to open to provide adequate protection. And even worse, they lose their "accuracy" the more times they are tripped. 100amp breaker trips at 100amps first time. 103amps second time. 107amps third time. etc. You get the idea.

The 500/1 and P180.2 both can accept up to 4awg power and ground. Since you are running 4awg from the battery already, mise well buy a couple extra feet and send it to your amps as well. You'll need a distribution block such as this one. And what do you plan on doing about RCA connection? You already have an aftermarket headunit? Plan on using a LOC?

Freddy, 5 amps powering 8 subwoofers off a single 4awg? Yes, it is possible just not very probable. I assume 4 subamps and a 2 or 4-channel for front stage? Anything more then about 100WRMS per woofer would require a larger power wire. And most people who run a setup like that are running a lot more power then that. And having a cap has nothing to do with that. </font>[/QUOTE]More good advice from 96firebird311. In other news, the sun rose in the east this morning.

[SPEEDYGUN]

This kit comes with a Distribution Block, specifically:

1x4 ga in 4x8 ga out Fused Distribution Block


This is sufficient?

[nda0602v6]

That distribution block will work but it only has (8-awg outputs) thus only allowing you to send (8-awg) power wire to your amps. Like others are saying, since your amps have the ability to accept (4-awg) power wire, might as well take advantage of it. You'll need a distribution block with (4-awg outputs). Here's a diagram on one possible way you can wire your amps up. Are JLw3's single 4-ohm coils or dual 4-ohm coils? I'm not sure or I would have made a diagram on how to wire em up. One more thing, if you're gonna end up running 4-awg from your distribution block to the amps, you may as well get an amp kit that has 2-awg power wire to use from the battery on back. Perhaps a little overkill but it won't hurt. This way if you ever upgrade to bigger amps, you won't have to upgrade the power wire.