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Hey guys.. I have a 97 Camaro, and I've been having a few problems with my car recently, so I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas on what could be the problem. First my CD player would cut out at random times, like it had a short in the power. One day I took it out to check for shorts in the harness and didnt find any, put it back in and it didnt work at all. So a few days later I took it back out to see if I forgot to plug something back up when I noticed the yellow wire in the harness (I'm pretty sure its the constant 12v wire) was disconnected. I went to grab it and it touched my CD player and sparked a little, but I figured no fig deal, it just grounded out. So I reconnect everything and put it back in, and it still doesnt work. Then, I notice my odometer/trip isnt working anymore (its digital). It dimly lights up, but shows no numbers. So, I decided a few days later to look at the back of the fuse box to make sure nothing has come disconnected or anything, and to test the ignition wire that goes frmo the radio fuse to the radio harness. I think it had a short, but I couldnt be sure at the time. Anyway, to get to the back of the fuse panel I took off the panel under my steering wheel (the one that the hatch release button is on). Well, to take it off I had to disconnect my hatch release button.. again, I figured no big deal right? Well, turns out it is a big deal. I plugged it back in and now it doesnt work. When I push it i can hear something in the dash somewhere that sounds like a solenoid engaging or something, but it thats it. I cant tell exactly where the sound is comming from, so I havent checked it out yet. I've checked all related fuses and found no problems, even disconnected my battery for a while and still nothing. Any help is greatly appreciated guys, thanks a lot for looking..
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Re: Recent Problems
based on what you said sounds like wiring is a mess in that car. its hard to help through a computer, but it may just be easier to bring it to a shop for this kinda thing. -
Re: Recent Problems
yeah, im really thinking about that..Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
Grounding that yellow wire like that was not a good thing to do! Next time use a Volt/Ohm meter if you want to know if there is power there.
That yellow wire provides power from the 15 amp fuse labeled "Radio Fuse" to the radio but also provides power to the Body Control Module (BCM) to a connection lableled "Program Input". Now I have no idea what BCM does with the power from the yellow wire, but if you shorted it out chances are you could have damaged the BCM!
Unless you have all the schematics, some electrical experience, and proper tooling, you should have someone else look at this.Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
i didnt short it out on purpose.. but yeah i need to get it checked outComment
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Re: Recent Problems
ok guys, i decided to check the wire from the fuse box to the radio again and i found a short. So I ran a wire from the fusebox to the wire on the radio and the odometer and hatch release worked fine, still no radio though. (i think the radio is just broken). I noticed the wire going to the fuse box is a different wire than the one that goes to the radio, and i think they go to the gauges. In the wiring diagram i saw the wire went straight from the fuse box to the radio but I guess it goes from the fuse box to the gauges and then to the radio. The thing is, I cant get to the back of the gauges to fix the short, so should I just run a wire from the fuse box to the radio wire and let the electrical current backtrack to the gauges, or should I fix the wire going from the fuse box to the gauges?
Sorry if the way I put it in confusing, but I could make a diagram if necessary.
It makes sense though now that I think about it. The odometer lit up because my lights turned on, but didnt show numbers because it didnt think the ignition was on. Still no clue on why the hatch release didnt work though.. Unless for some reason when you turn your lights on and open your door your odometer shows numbers..Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
It all ties into the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) function from the Body Control Module. The BCM provides power for a timed duration (I think 10 min)to certain things after the ignition is turned off, or when a door is opened the power is killed right away. Some of those certain things are the windshield wipers, power windows, hatch release, and radio.
There is a dark blue wire that runs from the BCM, behind and across the dash, over to the fuse panel (I/P Fuse Block). At the fuse panel this wire attaches to a split terminal that provides power to the power side of the 30 amp windows circuit breaker AND to the power side of the 15 amp radio fuse. Then a yellow wire from the radio fuse runs over to the radio (to provide radio power) but before it gets there (to the radio) it is split off at a junction where it runs back to the BCM (program input) AND according to the schematic that I have, also runs off to the Fuse Block. Now I don’t know if that is the I/P (instrument panel) Fuse Block or the Fuse Block under the hood cause I don’t have the schematic for that. But that is the wire that provides power to the hatch and windshield wipers when RAP is active.I noticed the wire going to the fuse box is a different wire than the one that goes to the radio
Absolutely!! Shorts are not good things could lead to electrical fires, which are not fun. Should be fixed ASAP!should I fix the wire going from the fuse box to the gauges?Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
i would say its all the BCM's fault, it generally isComment
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Re: Recent Problems
Well, I cant get to the wire (yellow) that leads into the fusebox to the 15A radio fuse. I can access it where is goes to the fusebox, but I cant get to the other end of it. I did run a wire from the fusebox to the radio wire though, so my odometer/trip and hatch release works now. I never noticed a problem with my wipers, but that doesnt mean i didnt have one. The only wierd thing now is I think my trip resets every time I start the car.
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After re-reading what you said, and understanding it a little better, Im pretty sure the wire from the radio fuse to the BCM was the problem. My radio used to cut out every now and then, and it got to where it would turn off when I turned off my ignition, like the RAP wasnt working properly..Last edited by bill12690; 05-07-2007, 06:04 PM.Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
oh yeah, this is kind of a different subject, but you seem to know what your talking about so I'll go ahead and ask. My car does not have power windows or locks, so I was wondering what the shock sensor in my spare tire spot (above the rear passenger side wheel well) is supposed to do. I can adjust it and rock the car and stuff, and the light will flash, but thats it. Even if my doors are locked and everything, the light just blinks. I was just wondering, because I didnt see much point if a light I can't see blinks when something hits my car.
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By the way, thanks a LOT for the info you've given me.. It has really helped a lot..Last edited by bill12690; 05-07-2007, 06:05 PM.Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
the shock sensor is for an alarm, without power locks i dont think it would do anything though because you have no way to arm the system, they probably just put them in every car to save money, and radio cutting out is a signature bcm problem, its a weak relay thats solution is to replace the bcmComment
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Re: Recent Problems
Bah is right. Your whole problem looks to be the BCM.
If you had power windows you would have noticed that they would not work when the radio was dead. But the odometer lights and stuff is different.
My BCM is screwed too. But I built and installed a bypass wire that just plugs into the I/P fuse box. Been testing it for a little over a month now and it works great in all conditions and loads. I'll publish the bypass fix in a little while.
One thing about your story though that takes me by surprise is your hand crank widows. I thought all the F-bodies came standard with power windows??Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
I dont know.. I've seen newer ones than mine, V6's and V8's without power locks/windows.. it sucksComment
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Re: Recent Problems
Well maybe......but at least you don't have to deal with slow or burned out motors that are a PITA to change! Lots to be said about simplicity.without power locks/windows.. it sucksNow Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)Comment
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Re: Recent Problems
where is the BCM located? and is it hard to get to?Comment
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