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  • Need help with 3rd of Big 3 Electrical

    Hey folks, I've upgraded the wire going from my alternator (+) to my battery (+) , and battery(-) to chassis, however I do not know where the wire going from Engine to Chassis is so I can upgrade that as well. If it is hard to get at, anybody have suggestions on alternative spots that are easier to get to, and would not interfere with the belt or anything else?

    I've put in a higher output alternator but when the car is hot (or has been run recently) my voltage fluctuates more and stays around 13 volts (Drops when a/c is on, or windows raised/lowered). If it hasn't been run recently or is cooler, it is nice and high (14.4v), and then slowly lowers.

    I do have a stereo system installed, two amplifiers (1 - 4 channel that powers all my speakers, and another amp that powers the sub only), with a 1 farad cap connected to the subwoofer amp. Still having lots of dimming with bass notes, or whenever accessories in the car are used.

    Thanks folks!

  • #2
    Re: Need help with 3rd of Big 3 Electrical

    Pretty easy to go from either the battery (-) or the chassis to the long bolt that the alternanator pivots on for the engine connection.
    Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"

    2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
    Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler

    Go Sabres!

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    • #3
      Re: Need help with 3rd of Big 3 Electrical

      Originally posted by Rubedizzle
      ,I do not know where the wire going from Engine to Chassis is so I can upgrade that as well. If it is hard to get at, !
      Engine to Chassis on the rigth (3800) look for for the starter power wire and you'll see it... "hard to get at" chassis No ... Engine its not fun...

      Originally posted by Rubedizzle
      I've put in a higher output alternator.!
      how big 140A 160A 200A ?????

      [

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      • #4
        Re: Need help with 3rd of Big 3 Electrical

        However I can just use the alternator bolt run to the chassis/(-) battery can't I? If so, then that should be better, as it would allow even more current then just replacing the wire there.

        They rated it at 160A.

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