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well i 99.9% sure that my motor is bad. just wanted the extra .1% covered before i buy a new one.
the window can still go up and down. but alot of the time when it's going up it gets slow and will stop. i have to take the wires off the back of the switch and play with it as i inch it up. my wires where a little loose so i did get a new pigtail and re wired it. still have the same problem.
Two things to check before replacing motor:
1) Just be sure that it's not the plastic switch that's busted before going to the trouble of motor replacement. The both switches cracked on mine, which manifested itself by the window sorta going up like the motor was bad. Autozone (or was it Advanced Auto parts???) had the whole GM driver's side factory switch in stock, for $10 or so.
2) Are you sure your pressing that button correctly? Its kinda tricky, I usually use the Digital Method: my left index finger and apply a 3-4 lb force 30-degrees from vertical. Though I hear advanced operators use other digits too.
i'd go to a local parts store and get a motor from a respected company like doorman or siemans with a lifetime warrenty. No questions asked they'll exchange you for a new one. good luck
2) Are you sure your pressing that button correctly? Its kinda tricky, I usually use the Digital Method: my left index finger and apply a 3-4 lb force 30-degrees from vertical. Though I hear advanced operators use other digits too.
Sounds like the exhaust isn't spooling up the window actuator correctly. Rather than replacing the motor, I found it easier to just check the amperage of the fuel capacitor for correct resistance, and check the internal positive pressure vent of cylinder number 6. If the vent pressure is 3.2 bar, double check the wiring gaskets for ductility.
:)
I have the same problem, as a matter of fact mine did the exact same thing. Most likely the brushes inside the motor are corroded, so best option is to replace the motor. I have yet to do mine, it is quite embarrasing to drive through a McDonald's drive-thru at 10PM and have to open the door to place an order. Someone told me that you need a rivet gun to change out the motor? Maybe this is true for the 94s? I have a '97.
\'97 Camaro M5 Y87 3.23 LSD, homebrew CAI, highfloCat, Flowmaster catback, Pacesetter headers, specstage3 clutch and aluminum flywheel, !egr, 2kW system.<br /><br />Possible L67 bottom end w/ abbott heads and a turbo in the works... gotta do more homework
I would still go with a nut and bolt. With our cars chances are you will be replacing them again and it will save some time and effort.
I swapped out the bolts that came with the motor because they are pretty short. Then I threw some locktite on the new longer bolts and everything worked out fine.
well i picked up the motor and whole assem on friday. oh that was a fun time. thank god i'm a chick and have little arms lol. doing it all in one piece was crazy. but it's done. i did end up using nuts and bolts. all seems well now.
Not much going on, replaced my Kenwood double din stereo with a Pioneer double din, the Kenwood had problems. Then replaced my power inverter for my reverse...
Hi all new to the community here. I have a 2014 RS 6 speed manual... and so about a year ago my tail lights got cracked and eventually the plastic housing...
Hi, everyone. We bought a 97 base model convertible Camaro and someone broke the motor ... Lights were blinking on the dash and that someone ignored the...
3 weeks ago
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