i have a 99 firebird and as of today when i go to turn off the headlights theirs a noise. The headlights close but theirs a noise that starts after they close that last about 5-10 seconds, doesn't sound like grinding or anything. Could if be that little plastic piece in/around the headlight motor that i heard always ****s up?
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Re: Headlight problem
anyone? even an idea. it is the headlight motor, once the headlights down the motor keeps working so thats the noise; now theirs a new problem. when the fogs and the interior lights light are suppose to be the only ones on , the headlights come up also but the headlight bulbs dont turn on until i turn the switch all the way to the right. Any ideas?
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Re: Headlight problem
you need to rebuild it. Buy the gears either off rodney ****man or bfrankerCar expresses who you are. If you have a ****ty car, you must be a ****ty person;)<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979</a>
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Re: Headlight problem
they'l go up when you lock/unlock the car. The gears are inside a little black motor. They are located under the headlightCar expresses who you are. If you have a ****ty car, you must be a ****ty person;)<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/995979</a>
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Re: Headlight problem
Ive got the exact same problem started the other night.. i pulled the fuses for now till i can get the time to check everything out.... i dont understand how the gears can be bad if the doors go up and down wouldnt they grind as they were moving?? ive got a 99 3.8 bird and this thing has been nothing but a pain in the arse.. the only good thing about this car is its got t tops..
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Re: Headlight problem
For a temporary fix:
- Open hood
- Turn on headlights
- Disconnect battery/remove fuse/unhook harness (whichever you prefer)
- Use 10mm? wrench to remove the nut that holds the arm from the headlight assembly to the motor.
- Remove arm from motor (going to have to pry)
- Rotate manual adjustment knob so the cam that the arm is connected to rotates a full 180 degrees
- Line up arm and cam on motor
- Reinstall
- Reconnect power.
This will turn the plastic gear inside the motor 180*. The motor only uses 1/2 of the gear inside it. That half has become stripped, causing the gears to slip which create that grinding sound. By turning the gear 180*, the worm gear inside the headlight will now be in contact with the other half of the circular gear that hasn't been used and is still in good condition.
Like I said though, it's a temporary fix, because the gear is bound to be stripped again and will give you the same problems. Your best bet to a permanent fix is to remove the plastic gear inside that gets stripped and replace it with an aluminum/brass gear which you can find on ebay.<b>1995 Pontiac Firebird</b> || 3.4L V6
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Re: Headlight problem
so it is that damn little plastic piece huh.....ill do the temp fix for now and buy the gears next week....so its that plastic gear thats causing that noise and the headlights to go up like when their not suppose do? they dont go up when i lock/unlock my car as v6mOtOrhEAdftOp said if that matters only when i turn the switch for the lights to the middle. Anyone have the link to the gears by any chance? thnx for the responses
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Re: Headlight problem
Yeppers, the stripped gear causes that. Seems that the gear serves as resistance in some instances, such as parking light or door lock circuit energizing. With the gear being stripped that resistance is not there. Of course this is just me speculating. I have replaced the gears and used a paste epoxy to keep the cap on the motor, after having caps come off several times using different epoxies.
Most of this will make sense if you do a search for bfranker.
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Re: Headlight problem
I didn't read everyones replies so parden...
But I would highly recommend spend the few extra bucks for the brass (or any metal) version of the gear. I replaced both mine with new plastic ones and a month later one went out again. Word on the street is that premature failure is due to play in the gear shaft. The brass gears I bought included a washer with the gears to help ensure little/no play in the shaft. If you need pictures, check out the FAQ thread at the top of the stereo forum. I did a quick walkthrough on it before these two sections split about a year ago.
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