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Its hard to get into 11's without blowing up something, better have a stout rear ,trans and engine to get there. Thats why I'm building a 2nd motor up L26 and have money set aside for a performbuilt II tranny and a 9" rear with 3.55's. I was going to buy a truck but will keep the money for "just in case scenario", my Dads friend just opened his own shop, so install prices will be next to nothing. Kirk was a really good guy, gave me my new torsen diff., ALM. driveshaft, 3.42's and did some free work on my car back in the day.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Okay, So with the Turbo setup, how much do you think it's going to cost me to do it?
Here's what I was going to do first
Add a Turbo grind Cam, P&P Heads, Lower/Upper Intake, and TB, Bigger Fuel Injectors, Springs and Hardened Pushrods, Double Roller Timing Chain ... Then add the Turbo setup which would include a T3 Turbo, Waste Gate, BOV, and Intercooler all with ceramic coated piping... I don't think I can install the heads/cam myself so there will also be some labor charges involved... How much will that run me and where should I get my heads/intake done at? - I was going to run 12 PSI with that setup
Then I was going to go down and throw in some Forged Pistons... but Im probably not going to do that until I put a better rearend and upgrade the transmission.
There are way to many variables involved for someone to just put a price on a turbo
setup for you.
Hotside piping can be expensive if you don't do it yourself. The brand of the turbo,
wastegate, blowoff valve, intercooler, etc. will change the price. Labor for installing the
heads and cam will make you walk with a limp.
The transmission is not going to like you. The 2-3 shift is weak.
Don't forget tuning.
Basically, you need to decide what you want to do. Then start pricing everything out.
I will say that if you don't do the work yourself, you will probably go over 5 grand if
you do everything you listed for the turbo setup.
And ssms is dreaming if he thinks that setup will only " a little over $2000". But I guess
that depends on your definition of 'a little'.
Need to reread what I post , I said a L26 BUILT MOTOR FOR $2000 , for a turbo setup even with having a exhaust shop weld pipping was $500 , and a under K setup can be done for $3000, my setup ran $4500 becuase I went with a little GT35R turbo, oval tubing, methanol injection kit , Auroforce scan gauge, 65LB injectors under the tub. K member. Doing the cold side with intercooler is easy mounting it and running the pipe if someone can't do that themselves they shouldn't add a turbo becuase they will have it in the shop everyweek for something they need done for them.
Guy on FTV6 did his under K setup for Around $500, cheap $350 ebay turbo kit. Was running 7 PSI and got it up to 10 PSI with a FMU. Thats pretty cheap, but for someone wanting to do a turbo kit they should have at least the basics, full bolt-ons , Hptuners, and a wideband. Ebay has great prices on alot of stuff. A decent turbo maybe $500-$800, ALM 12 x 31X 3" or 4" $150, 3" ALM piping $100 comes with silicone connectors , T clamps and Vac lines, 36lb injectors $60 used, BOV & wasgate $450, turbo install kits that have lines for inlet/return lines $50, flanges/clamps and Vbands $40, 2-90 degree bends for under K $50 straight tube $20 and about $500 for extra pipes and welding the hot side up with the downpipe. Misc items for the oil pressure sensor and systheic oil $45. Flanges for the hot side and downpipe $50. Then you can add more for shipping and labor charges and air filter and a remote oil kit comes in handy to run the downpipe down $90. Also to have the AC hose redone $80 for new hose and $65 to have it modified. so you might be looking at $2500 to $3000 to do a under K member. Just find a honest good mig welder that will take money off the books in cash, cash always works, that why all my welding costs $500 making the Y pipe to run to the turbo adding the 3" V clamps and running the DP to the exsisting exhaust and also where I can undo 3 V bands and take the kit out and bolt up my stock exhaust if I need to do so to work on the turbo or something like that.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
[QUOTE=Need4Camaro;948178]Cool, I was going to say I was upgrading the bottom end so it could handle more boost. To attain 350 - 400 RWHP. Will the stock pistons be able to handle more than 10 PSI on a good tune.
Thats an amazing deal for $2,000 - Who's doing your heads and will you beable to do all the labor yourself or how is that working? Where are you getting all the motor parts?
Stock pistons will be fine as long as the tune is good and no KR.
The 08' L26 block is $400 with 1200 miles on it, and then I already have most the parts for the build new oil pan all gaskets and spare heads milled and are already P/P with Comp 130LB springs modded retainers and viton seals. And my spare intakes are P&P, have Comp OEM lifters, and Comp .105 pushrods. Just need the JE 9.9:1 forged pistons L32 rods already come with the engine, clev. bearings which is about $1000 then pick out another cam most likey VS cam $320, have all gakets bolts already and labor is free. Comes to about $2000
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
You'll have more than $2000 in that motor. Just because you already have it,
doesn't mean you don't have to add it to the build total.
Thats true for someone building theirs it will be alittle over $3000 with including the parts and doing their own labor. But for what I'm building about $2000 or a little more. I already have most the parts for the engine. I get alot of stuff done for free, its good having a Dad who retired from GM for 40 years, and one of his mechanics just opened up his own shop who did my labor for free before, heads are already milled, blasted and P&P and have #130LB springs, nothing needs to be done to a 1200 mile motor except for using clev. 77 bearings, JE pistons, ARP head studs, MLS .062 head gaskets, Comp OE lifters(have the OER in the currrent motor with the Diamond pistons but I don't go over 6000 rpms so I'm fine) I already have most the stuff just need the JE pistons. I can have Kirk or Bobby one of the mechanics and have the motor done in about 8 hours on a stand, they are very quick and good at their jobs. Only thing I'm thinking about is using the L26 heads and some Mainly valves or use the L36 heads I already have beefed up. This is just going to be a backup built engine, since the one in my car is already built up. Then once done I will get a performbuilt II tranny and have it all set togehter to go in. Then turn up the boost and go from there, I want to see how much the GT35R will handle, dealer said 18-20 PSI with the .63 A/R.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
CRX racing has alot of good stuff for good prices , I believe LINX uses that same intercooler or the 4" thick one like I have. FFH headers will be alot more than $500 unless your going under the K member with your setup. FFF makes the FFH but they cost $2500 just for the hot side pipping. But the first thing you need to do is decide is power goals how much PSI , then look for a good turbo, then decide FFH style or under the K , another reason I chose under the K was heat in the engine bay in AZ summers(wasn't lack of funds) since I was going to buy a truck I held off and decide to put more into my car. The intercooler is good, CRX makes ALM. pipping for like $90 , then for BOV & wastegate Tial is great like a 38mm wastegate and 50mm BOV should be fine thats about $450 or so for both but they are worth it, the ones you posted wouldn't be to bad as a starter kit and if they go out can be replaced. I'm in a rush so I can't break down more items for ya. But I will later on. Just got to shop around.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
CRX racing has alot of good stuff for good prices , I believe LINX uses that same intercooler or the 4" thick one like I have. FFH headers will be alot more than $500 unless your going under the K member with your setup. FFF makes the FFH but they cost $2500 just for the hot side pipping. But the first thing you need to do is decide is power goals how much PSI , then look for a good turbo, then decide FFH style or under the K , another reason I chose under the K was heat in the engine bay in AZ summers(wasn't lack of funds) since I was going to buy a truck I held off and decide to put more into my car. The intercooler is good, CRX makes ALM. pipping for like $90 , then for BOV & wastegate Tial is great like a 38mm wastegate and 50mm BOV should be fine thats about $450 or so for both but they are worth it, the ones you posted wouldn't be to bad as a starter kit and if they go out can be replaced. I'm in a rush so I can't break down more items for ya. But I will later on. Just got to shop around.
Sweet, thanks for the advice so far. I'll be looking up the prices and requoting on that. I wasn't sure how much FFH would cost but $2,500 is ALITTLE much. Can I go under my STOCK crossmember without clearence problems? (I know you're running a tubular one) because I'm definately trying to do it on a budget, of course without blowing my motor up.
Power and PSI goals for stage I turbo is 14 PSI and 350 - 400 RWHP, anywere between there will be fine as long as I can do it without breaking the stock motor/drivetrain as it wont be seeing much abuse on the track or even street for that matter. I heard someone here say that the 2nd - 3rd shift syncho is real weak... I guess that means I need to shop for a new tranny too? Can I have my current one upgraded?
Turbo I would at least go with a name brand since thats your work horse for the power. With the rightt turbo you should be able to hit 350 WRHP with 10-12PSI , My oval piping was about $350 I think. Its 3" but measures at 2 1/4" height so it saves on clearance, the custom Y pipe for $180 ,you really don't need just use a Ypipe 2- 2 1/2" to 3" and go oval from the Y , I could of saved $180 but when they test fitted my Y it sit about 1/2"to a 1" up from the oil pan , so If you can clear the oil pan you can clear the pipes, but with a stock K , I don't know. Teful Hunyden notched his stock K and used regular piping and his worked out fine, stock motor except for 130lb valve springs and a double roller timing chain, dynoing 456 WRHP and 500 TQ 18 PSI with meth. With a GT40R turbo .82 A/R shifting 6500 RPMS or more($2000) turbo. Mines 1 size smaller GT35R I got from a wholesaler new for $1300. So just look for a decent turbo that will last awhile and not blow up and take out your engine.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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