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Re: John D. Power wrap question
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I will keep you all posted on the developments as they happen. And as always any input is greatly appreciated. :)
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Thats the stock PD belt routing th JD wrap should have more percent on the superchager pulley than the stock belt routing for it, since your cammed you will lose about 2-3 PSI in boost , so it will be hard to get the PSI #'s up there but your still going to be making good power. I lost 2-3 PSI after my cam went in and P/P heads, intakes on a 3.12 grooved ASP pulley. So I was only making like 2-4 PSI tops after that , so then I went with a 2.9 ASP pulley and then 2.8 and finally a 2.6 ASP pulley(also make sure you get them in steel, ALM will warp when it gets too hot). The 2.6 Got me back up to 8 PSI average with spikes to 11-12 PSI which is normal. so a 2.8 should be around 6-7 PSI which should be enough. I had to rebuild mine quite a few times running the 2.6" pulley becuase of it stressing the internal belt and bearings, this was with the 928 ceramic bearings, venting and shiming. Also I found Dayco and Gatorback belts the best to run, if you have it too tight you will actually lose PSI from it slipping or putting too much stress on the input shaft so its harder for the PD to spin its impellar. Just things I learnedd with mine along the way when I experimented doing stuff. Also after some good driving and the belt has strechted (which it will over time you'll need to tighten it). Just have the belt from the ALT. to the power steering just tight enough where you can turn the belt at least 90 degrees or you can press down on it and have it flex down about a inch. Hope this helps, I know I spent along time with my PD, might want to read some of my old posts on it.
[
I will keep you all posted on the developments as they happen. And as always any input is greatly appreciated. :)
[/QUOTE]Thats the stock PD belt routing th JD wrap should have more percent on the superchager pulley than the stock belt routing for it, since your cammed you will lose about 2-3 PSI in boost , so it will be hard to get the PSI #'s up there but your still going to be making good power. I lost 2-3 PSI after my cam went in and P/P heads, intakes on a 3.12 grooved ASP pulley. So I was only making like 2-4 PSI tops after that , so then I went with a 2.9 ASP pulley and then 2.8 and finally a 2.6 ASP pulley(also make sure you get them in steel, ALM will warp when it gets too hot). The 2.6 Got me back up to 8 PSI average with spikes to 11-12 PSI which is normal. so a 2.8 should be around 6-7 PSI which should be enough. I had to rebuild mine quite a few times running the 2.6" pulley becuase of it stressing the internal belt and bearings, this was with the 928 ceramic bearings, venting and shiming. Also I found Dayco and Gatorback belts the best to run, if you have it too tight you will actually lose PSI from it slipping or putting too much stress on the input shaft so its harder for the PD to spin its impellar. Just things I learnedd with mine along the way when I experimented doing stuff. Also after some good driving and the belt has strechted (which it will over time you'll need to tighten it). Just have the belt from the ALT. to the power steering just tight enough where you can turn the belt at least 90 degrees or you can press down on it and have it flex down about a inch. Hope this helps, I know I spent along time with my PD, might want to read some of my old posts on it.
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